...it pours drops of ineptitude and frustration. So my loco isn't moving, but it seems a also broke it. Looking for recs on circuitboard repair as well as help on some track issues. This endeavor started when I noticed my panel-mounted controller was getting hot and the LED turned from green to red. I immediately unplugged everything and decided to test my track work with just some alligator clips connected to my adaptor. Things started to get really weird when the wall-wart adapter started losing power. (My multimeter showed declining voltage as the light on the adapter started to dim.) I took the engine off the track and the voltage sparked back to 9V and stayed there. No decline in power since. I took the engine apart to wiggle the circuit board again per the advice I got a while ago when it first came in the mail. I actually ended up disassembling the whole thing and putting it back together again. It worked (YAY!) briefly (BOO!) until that strange thing with the drop in voltage happened again. I thought perhaps I attached the power trucks incorrectly with the leads on top of the points and took it apart again, but in doing some research I see I had it correct the first time. Ultimately, in my attempt to put the locomotive back together again I fear I snapped a resistor off of the circuit board. This, now, needs addressing and I don't have the tools or the know-how to fix it. Does anyone out there do repairs? Can a local electrician do this for me? Or did I just buy myself an other locomotive? The resistor aside, does anyone have any idea why I was losing power? It was working perfectly two weeks ago as I tested each piece of track I laid. Just when I thought things were starting to move with my layout, I hit a major snag. -Josh in Philadelphia
The second question is ... which panel mount controller? Third question ... which AC adapter and what specs are on it (Voltage in, voltage out, mA output)?
Of course...this is why you all are experts and I am not. Loco AZL GP38-2 Controller Medvend AN1/C Adapter Zozo Adjustable, Universal AC Adapter 12W Input AC 100-240V 50-60Hz 0.5A Output DC 3/4.5/5/6/7.5/9/12V 1000mA
Good question John. I see that Josh posted on Facebook in a video - he has a Grand Trunk, which if I recall correctly was one of the last releases of the first run of GP38s (Yep, released May 05, 2013). However, even if you have a crumbled chassis you can still get things to work. I have an SP version that is crumbled but I was able to hard-wire it to make it work. Runs better than ever before now that I'm not relying on interference to make a connection. But, there is a lot that can go wrong if you take it completely apart.
Josh, First thing, when you have problems with an AZL product, consider posting on their user forum (azlforum.com). The principles monitor that forum frequently. Second, It looks like you have a chassis that comes from the first production run (52501 through 52513[undecorated]). SO your problem may be related to zinc pest. The drop in voltage implies that something in the locomotive is shorted out, not a common problem with a crumbling chassis. Since you've already dug into the unit I can makes some suggestions. Try powering the loco momentarily with a 9V battery touching across the wheels. Does it run, does the light come on? Since one of the resistors is broken, try with both polarities. Remove the shell and the PC board. Using your multimeter for continuity/ohms, measure between the two halves of the frame. If you have continuity, there is your short. If you loosen the screws holding the chassis halves together, hold them apart with toothpicks and the short goes away, it can be that one or both of the frame halves is warped (due to the zinc pest) and short out when the unit is assembled. If you remove the frame halves and run a metal straightedge across the inside surface you should be able to tell. To get replacement frames check out the links in: http://www.azlforum.com/post/13527 Otherwise it could be failure of the insulation between the two halves around the screws. Beyond this, the more unlikely candidates would be to look for metal shorts from the bottom of the PCB and metal splinters. Hope this helps and let us know what you find. Mark
See photos here: http://azlforum.com/thread/978/weird-problem-3-gp38s This is common in that first batch of AZL GP38s. The recent ones have zero reports of zinc pest.
Is this what you mean by Crumbled Chassis! I bought two of these AZL GP38-2 undecorated AZL-62513. When I took the shell off it just crumbled like in the photo. plus chassis was bent a bitt. So now a loss of money an Engine doesn't run at all. The other one I haven't taken the shell off but makes a loud noise when running!
Josh, I'm away from home at the moment, but if Walt doesn't mind if I markup his image, this should help. Regarding your resistor, I suspect that there a few DCC users who would be willing to give up the OEM PCB. And if all this is a bit much for you, I join in suggesting to contact Rob. Mark
So I took my loco apart today (LOTS of snow in Philadelphia, so the town shut down. Woo! No work today!). Below are some photos. Mark, I put a 9V battery on the wheels like you suggested...nothing. Upon closer inspection, I'm not sure I actually disconnected a resistor. What I mean to say, is that it didn't physically pop off. Just bend. There's no telling what damage I did do, though. For safety's sake, I already contacted Rob for a replacement board. Additionally, the frame is not warped. I don't believe the loco is suffering from zinc pest. Once I get the new circuit board, I'll give an update.
Try tapping on the circuit board lightly from above to see if it is just a faulty connection. Usually in the soldered area... Did you try re-setting the tabs on the board? See the images I put in my own version of the AZL tech tip: http://zscalehobo.com/photos/azl/AZL_GP30_GP38_Tech_Tip_zsh_insert.pdf
Don't think there are any resistors on the PC board (maybe VERY small one for LED). The large shrink wraps are coils, to keep motor noise off the rails (EMI suppression). You don't need them, just put a jumper in place. I likely have the boards (near 50+ DCC installs but only 2 GP38). Most of the boards were generic. I think I still have an un-modified GP-38 to verify the correct board from the pile. Send me your address and I can mail. With the board out, try placing one corner into the notch (this will be the opposite side of the correct, meaning the 'left' PC board contact will be slipped into the chassis right notch post). If they are even remotely loose, you need a very thin layer of solder or, put Scotch tape on the bottom of the board to make tension. DON'T TRY AND BEND THE POSTS !!! If you do the solder way, it will be way to thick. Reheat and wipe fast with a paper towel. That should leave enough.
Hi Jeff, Thanks for the offer. However, Rob at ZTrack is shipping me out a new board today. So you're telling me I technically don't need those two shrink-wrapped cylinders for the loco to run? If that's the case, then I have a different problem I cannot figure out.
