Why use a fascia?

Switchman Jul 16, 2009

  1. Switchman

    Switchman TrainBoard Member

    861
    19
    19
    I know most all model railroads install fascia boards on the front of their layouts.

    I’ve built and destroyed two layouts and when I move I’ll build my third. On the first two I did not use a fascia board.

    Now don’t you all jump on me at one time.:tb-wink::tb-biggrin: But I wonder what its purpose is other than to "pretty up your railroad."

    Thanks
    See ya
    Ron
     
  2. ctxm

    ctxm TrainBoard Member

    377
    0
    12
    gives something comfortable to lean on while drinking your beer?
     
  3. Powersteamguy1790

    Powersteamguy1790 Permanently dispatched

    10,785
    10
    115
    If you use a fascia and raise it 5/8" of an inch above the base of the layout, the "lip" created will prevent Locomotives and rolling stock from crashing to the floor below in case of derailments.
     
  4. HOexplorer

    HOexplorer TrainBoard Supporter

    2,267
    3,219
    70
    I use it to cover up my crappy electrical work. Cheers, Jim CCRR/Socalz44
     
  5. Mark Watson

    Mark Watson TrainBoard Member

    6,000
    1,317
    85
    And that's pretty much it... Looks pretty, something to lean against, covers up ugly wires and if raised like PSG1790 suggests, helps protect from the plunge of death.

    My train of thought is, if I took all this time to make pretty track work and scenery, why leave the edge of the layout un-presentable? Sharp contrasty things grab attention. A fascia will remove that contrast of a beautiful layout against an ugly edge, putting the focal point back to the layout where it belongs. :)
     
  6. Gats

    Gats TrainBoard Member

    4,122
    23
    59
    Basically as Mark says with the bonus of the previous reasons.

    Additionally, it's gives a neat place to install the New Rail Products throttle pockets and folding drink holders!
     
  7. Jerry Tarvid

    Jerry Tarvid TrainBoard Member

    739
    16
    16
    For those of us with bench work that curve around certain area of the layout it provides a seamless transition and prevents hurting ourselves bumping into corners.

    Jerry
     
  8. ppuinn

    ppuinn Staff Member

    2,377
    1,444
    55
    Fascia boards can also provide information to operators.

    In the first picture below, on the top deck, the fascia board is used to:
    a. identify towns or dispatching blocks--Pekin and North Pekin are 2 separate blocks.
    b. conveniently position schematics showing which tracks or turnouts are affected by which electrical switches. (Since this picture was taken, the electrical switch for the Pekin hidden turnouts has been inserted directly into the fascia board on a neatly printed and labeled schematic instead of temporarily attached at the bottom edge of the fascia.)
    c. On the bottom deck, there is a 12-track staging area and the fascia provides information on which tracks are used by which trains (e.g., bottom track is the Main, Tracks 2 and 3 are arrival and departure tracks, Tracks 3 and 4 are NW Frankfort Indiana Staging, Tracks 5 and 6 are TPW Keokuk Iowa staging tracks, etc.)
    [​IMG]

    d. identifying industries:
    [​IMG]

    e. labeling locations within industries or telling what types of cars are spotted on which tracks. In the Keystone Steel and Wire Plant, the operator must move specific types of cars within the plant to specific postions, on specific tracks, in a specific order...and that information is posted on the cards mounted on the fascia board. One of the Keystone Job operator's responsibilities is to ensure the 25 empty gondola cars spotted on the 6 furnace charging car tracks are replaced with 25 loaded scrap metal gons that hold the correct types of steel making materials (lime, shredded scrap, sheared scrap, bundled scrap, cast iron plates, turnings, borings, pig iron, cropping scrap metal from other buildings within the plant, etc.). This information is posted on a card mounted on the fascia board by the 6 furnace charging car tracks.
    [​IMG]

    f. providing a labeled schematic that shows operators where their train is supposed to go and has clearly labeled toggle switches and LED panel lights to signal which turnouts are open or closed. Since this picture was taken, labels have been added to this schematic.
    [​IMG]

    g. Many DCC layouts will have panels for connecting into the DCC system that are mounted in the fascia board, like this Digitrax panel on my layout.
    h. Schematics mounted on the fascia show which tracks are used by which RRs.
    i. Fascia mounted light switches control room and layout lighting in this part of the basement.


    j. The picture above also shows a blue box (actually an original construction plastic electrical box with the nails removed) for holding throttles, pencils, uncoupling picks, etc. (Click for pic of a throttle holder actually in use. The hook on the fascia mounted throttle holder is also a convenient place to hang switchlist paperwork while picking up and setting out cars.)

    Depending on the type of benchwork construction method being used, sometimes the fascia board--when attached to other benchwork design elements--adds significant strength to the overall benchwork, as well as providing its cosmetic benefits.
     
  9. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

    67,560
    22,735
    653
    Definitely looks better than the distraction of raw lumber, wiring, etc, below the layout. And as noted, many of use use the fascia for more than just appearance.

    Boxcab E50
     
  10. sd90ns

    sd90ns TrainBoard Member

    946
    995
    35
    Why on Earth would you recommend having fascists on your layout??

    Don’t we have enough problems dealing with our trains and life in general without having a bunch of fascists dictating want we can and canno. . . I’m sorry. What did you say? The word was fascia?

    Never mind.

    I’m a long way from the point on my layout where I’d feel comfortable installing fascias. I’m just now to the point where I’m starting to build real control panels instead of the funky Atlas things I currently have. As someone who worked in the high-tech electronics manufacturing industry for better than 20 years it is amazing how much I hate, loathe and despise wiring.

    Wish me luck.
     
  11. Guzman

    Guzman TrainBoard Member

    93
    0
    13
    i was waiting for someone to go there... lol



    What all do you suggest using for fascias? My layout is a simple L shape, but I curved the inside corner so that there isn't a sharp edge there. What is flexible enough it can make a tight 90* curve but yet still look good?
     
  12. Stonewall

    Stonewall TrainBoard Member

    76
    0
    11
    Great comment about the facists. LMAO
     
  13. ppuinn

    ppuinn Staff Member

    2,377
    1,444
    55
    There are several options...each with their own advantages and disadvantages.

    Masonite/hardboard is available in 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch thicknesses. The narrower the fascia board is, the tighter you'll be able to bend it without snapping it, but there is a point at which the narrowness begins to adversely affect the strength and the piece will snap...and obviously a 1/8 inch thick piece will bend tighter than a 1/4 inch thick piece of the same width.

    A modeler in Springfield Illinois made beautifully curved valences to hide his overhead lighting of 12 inch wide, 1/8 inch thick Masonite with curves about 6 inches in radius. He told me he wet the panels with water and then carefully formed them to the desired configurations. I don't know how much water he used (spritzing one side or both sides with a mist or soaking in a tub for an unspecified length of time). He said he had snapped a couple by accidentally forcing them to the tightest curve too quickly...which suggests he could have bent pieces gradually over the course of several minutes, hours, or even days. FWIW, I've seen a Masonite kickboard on a bathroom cabinet get all bubbly/damaged where it was soaked by a chronic plumbing problem...so there is probably a limit to how long or how much water can be safely applied. Maybe someone else has experience with this method or knows a reference we could check for guidelines.

    Somewhere, maybe in one of the modeling magazines or in a benchwork book, someone suggested cutting 1/2 way through the thickness of the Masonite every inch or two with an appropriately adjusted table saw. This would make the panel easier to bend, but might also weaken it enough to snap or crease instead of bend...working slowly/carefully sure seems to be critical to success with either the water or cutting method.

    Sometimes it is possible to obtain large (4x4 or 4x8, longer??) sheets of styrene. Again, the thickness would probably affect the tightness of curve possible, and the strength of styrene may become an issue if you want to install throttle holders or fascia mounted electrical switches.

    On a previous layout, I used the back of the cheapest vinyl flooring I could find to make my 20 inch high backdrops. I didn't do a good job of installing it and the top edge curled where it wasn't properly suspended/supported; but, if strength is not a critical issue for your fascia (i.e., if you won't be hanging throttle holders on it or putting toggle switches or electrical jacks for throttles through it ), and if you can properly support the vinyl so it doesn't sag, then it could probably work as a short-term cosmetic fascia board. (Note: I am using Masonite/hardboard for all backdrops and fascias on my current layout because it is so much more sturdy than the vinyl.)

    Someone wrote an article in one of the magazines about using carpeting for their fascia. Throttles or clipboards with velcro on the back could be stuck directly to the carpeting. It's an interesting idea, but I'd like to talk to someone who has used carpeting for their fascia for a year or two and see what advantages or disadvantages they have encountered.
     
  14. sd90ns

    sd90ns TrainBoard Member

    946
    995
    35
    When it comes to bending, you might try this.

    “Wood paneling” comes in 4x8 sheets usually with some decorative lines running lengthwise. Cut the panels across the 4’ width into strips of the desired width/s you need your fascias. This will give you 4 foot lengths.

    Next soak the piece you need to bend in water for a couple of hours, maybe longer. The bathtub is useful for this purpose. Use hot but not scalding water.

    When the board is soaked through support the ends roughly 1 foot on either side of where you want the bend. The next part is tricky. I use a one gallon pickle jar. It can be plastic or glass plastic is better as if it falls off it won’t brake. Fill the jar with water and seal it tightly. (Note. The amount of water needed to create the necessary weight varies. Start low and increase as needed) Place the jar lengthwise across the width of the panel strip where you want the bend. Leave it to do its job.

    Repeat as needed. I’ve had success with this method but to each his/her own.
     
  15. ppuinn

    ppuinn Staff Member

    2,377
    1,444
    55
    SD90NS:
    Great description of using the water method for bending fascia boards...Thanks!
     
  16. Wolfgang Dudler

    Wolfgang Dudler Passed away August 25, 2012 TrainBoard Supporter In Memoriam

    3,794
    352
    49
    I've attached car card boxes to the fascia.

    Wolfgang
     
  17. WPZephyrFan

    WPZephyrFan TrainBoard Member

    2,454
    1,633
    59
    Someone said "beer"
     
  18. Kurt Moose

    Kurt Moose TrainBoard Member

    9,813
    14,199
    147
    Not to mention pink and blue foam is kinda' distracting ta' boot!!:teeth:
     
  19. Switchman

    Switchman TrainBoard Member

    861
    19
    19
    Folks this has turned out to be a very fun and :tb-cool:thread. Thanks for all your responses.

    See ya
    Ron
     
  20. CSXDixieLine

    CSXDixieLine Passed Away January 27, 2013 In Memoriam

    1,457
    0
    21
    I use plain old 1/8" hardboard for my fascia. Specifically, the brand I use is called "Eucaboard" and is available at all of the Home Depot stores I have been to in the Atlanta area. I have also used the hardboard available at Lowes, which is a lighter color (non-tempered perhaps?) and tends to snap when not exercising extreme caution when bending into a tight radius. The Home Depot stuff is quite flexible and easy to work with. In the photo of my layout below, you can see an 8" wide strip of the hardboard curved around the benchwork at the end of an aisle. Since the aisle is 30" wide, this would be a 15" radius bend and it was done quite easily with no cracking or snapping. In fact, if you look at the backdrop on the lower level, that was made using the same material and is bent at even a tighter radius than the fascia; probably around a 12" radius for the backdrop. Jamie

    [​IMG]
     

Share This Page