Question Z-Bend best practices?

marmot Sep 28, 2020

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  1. marmot

    marmot TrainBoard Supporter

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    I'm fishing for resources and best practices for Z-Bend modules. I really like the larger size yet portability and robust connectivity of Z-Bend modules. I love the wide variety that still can look good between different modules, so for me, Z-Bend is a sure thing. Can you point me to resources or just post recommendations about what's not in the Z-Bend standard, but still really a good idea with its design or construction?

    For reference the Z-Bend standard is at: http://www.ztrackmagazine.com/pdf/Z-Bend_Track_Manual_2004.pdf which is revision 3, dated 2004. Are there things that are no longer true or should be ignored/removed/modified in a future version?

    There aren't any local Z-Bend groups near me (yet), so I have to rely on the internet for answers. Here are a bunch of my example questions:
    • For accessory power of small motors and lights within a module, does anyone have a basic wiring diagram or a best practice regarding regulating the voltage and distributing power to things within each module? What circuit breaker and voltage regulator do you use that makes this easy?
    • I assume you might want to break out the DB-25 wiring to terminal strips to facilitate easy diagnosing during a show. Do you use terminal strips on each module to break out the 25 wires? Or how do you make this easy/neat?
    • What is a "clean" way to route your wiring along the underside so it's protected and also easy to understand or modify later? Do you have a recommendation on labels and organization underneath? Got any pics of a good example?
    • Is there any unwritten "rule" regarding DCC wiring or other communications between modules? If I want to be able to take a few Z-Bend modules to shows in whatever random location can I just pass wires #7 and 20 thru 25 through each module and not worry about them at this point? For the record, I'm working on making all tracks able to be independently either DC or DCC since I am initially running DC at home, someday probably use a mix of tracks DC/DCC, and yet have both tracks able to be used with DCC at shows. The circuit breaker I have already selected and am working on integrating is the Voltscooter that works with both DC and DCC: http://voltscooter.com/?page_id=343 I know the PSX circuit breakers make a lot of sense for people who use DCC-only.
    • Do you mess with power-switching of frogs on turnouts? Will that help or hurt for a module that can be used with either DC or DCC? So far I'm using Atlas flex track and Atlas turn-outs operated manually.
    • I assume there are no longer any Z-Bend wiring harnesses produced for sale anymore. Are there? I assume I'll be wiring everything myself from scratch, which is fine.
    • Do you have status LED's or alarm LED's or buzzers in your modules to indicate if a circuit breaker tripped? What part do you use for a buzzer?
    • I'm using a 1" thick foam board for the base surface. It'll be supported on simple "furring strips". Wood corners of the module will be "gusseted" for strength. It sounded like some of the CA modules use a somewhat stronger end plate of multi-ply plywood for the 2 foot interface surface. How necessary is it to make that end plate strong?
    • It was valuable for me to hear a mention that the guys in CA test connectivity during setup prior to a show by seeing if they can run a train around the full loop without connecting the 25-pin connectors in order to find poor track connections first. What other recommendations like that do people have for Z-Bend? Do you have a checklist or sequence of setup or tear-down that has proven valuable?
    • What mistakes have you made that you would like to tell others to avoid with Z-Bend?
    Thanks for any responses on all or part of this.
     
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  2. bostonjim

    bostonjim TrainBoard Member

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    Lots of great questions. Jim
     
  3. rray

    rray Staff Member

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    I have 5 ZBT modules, and really had fun with them. I am building T-Trak-Z modules now however because I'm by myself up here in Idaho, and the TTZ modules are smaller, and lighter for one guy to setup. I will take my Z-Bend modules to shows to connect with others however. I got a new camper trailer coming, and will be able to load it up with all my ZBT and TTZ modules, and make way to out of state show down the road, and would love to setup in Colorado some time.

    So...
    1) We just use a big 20A 12V power supply for accessories. There are pins in the D Connector to carry 12V to all the modules. You can put something like a 12V 3A breaker on your modules if you want. For other voltages accessories use Buck or Boost Converters on your module.

    2) Yes we have terminal strips on many modules, especially those with lots of wiring and turnouts.

    3) Label your wiring as best you can to make troubleshooting easier. I had used clear packing tape to hold wiring up before, then switched to Bar-Lok's or Magic Mounts with Ty-Wrap's or Zip Ties, and am now just pressing my wires into dabs of hot glue. Anything goes I guess.

    4) I use DCC all the time. If you want your modules to go either way, just connect your DCC accessories to a separate DCC system like a Power Cab or Zephyr system, and wire main tracks as normal on the D Connectors.

    5) For Z-Bend power routing on Atlas, most people usually run 2 or 3 locos, or one long loco, and should be able to run over an Atlas frog that is dead, All the 6 axle locos will go right over a dead Atlas frog. That said, you can use a slide switch wired to the throw of an Atlas turnout and route the frog power to that.

    6) I have a box full of Z-Bend cable kits that I bought from Bill Kronenberger in 2004, and I am willing to sell cheap, to get you started. I am not going to build any more ZBT modules.

    7) We have modified our DCC panels to show an inner and outer loop DCC On LED. When it starts flashing it means there is a short. I am sure you can come up with a buzzer if you want one.

    8) Yeah, Jeff does that part.

    9) Don't connect 2 DCC systems to the layout's 25 pin track pins. Don't connect 2 12V accessory power supplies to the layout's 25pin Accessory Pins, or there will be switching power supply smoke on the weaker supply.
     
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  4. marmot

    marmot TrainBoard Supporter

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    Robert,
    Thanks for your response! I'll send you a PM regarding purchasing a portion of your ZBT cable kits. That would help me to ease into this, and then expand with more complex modules/capabilities from there.

    I think it was at the back of the N scale "Bend" standards document that I noticed some interesting concepts regarding a possible adapter module between "Bend" and "T-Trak". Of course that would have to ignore the folding-table-height standard of T-Trak-Z, but would allow a "T" branch off of ZBT that could integrate TTZ modules at a custom-height table off-shoot from ZBT. I understand there is a reasonable conflict between height standards due to ensuring children can see TTZ modules on a folding table. But it's a fun concept to think about the possibilities of adapting them together when you have both.
     
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  5. tjdreams

    tjdreams TrainBoard Member

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    The 2 foot ends need to be both strong and durable enough to handle being clamped to and un clamped from the next module every time you setup and take it down. That clamping is what holds the modules together and keeps them aligned in place when kids and people bump up against them so its pretty important that they be strong enough to handle the abuse they are sure to get.

    For track and module alignment we made a jig with clear Lexan sheet on the top milled out to sit over the top of the rails and hardened steel drill guides on the ends to drill holes for Table pins to insure every module will align with the next.

    For wiring all my DB 25 connectors are wired to terminal strips then track and accessory wires are connected to the screw terminals to make trouble shooting easier. I didn't label mine when i first built it which was a BIG Mistake. I have since picked up a brother label maker and plan to print out cable label for all wires. My plan is to use 6 different colored tapes, one color each for the rails and the 12v +/- and all future modules will have the appropriate colored wire and label to make it easy to identify which wire is which for trouble shooting.

    I also plan to add a few bright white LED's connected to a on/off switch under each module so i don't need 3 hands to hold a multi meter both Leeds and a flashlight or take the skirting down to see in event theirs a problem at the show.

    Don't run or mount any wires on the 2 foot ends that are not absolute necessary. You don't want anyone to accidently cut, break, scuff the insulation off your wires while trying to clamp it to the next module.

    Also you may want to consider wiring in a rectifier for any thing that is positive and negative feed sensitive. You never know when someone might accidently hook up a power feed in reverse.

    For power we have home made dongles a double DB 25 connector male on one side female on the other all pins are jumped to their appropriate counter pin for pass through power then we have 4 wires coming off it one each inner & outer rails inner loop one each inner & outer rail for the outer loop. in our case the inner rails are connected to a DC power pack and the outer rails to a DCC power supply This makes it easy to just plug the Male /female DB25 connecter in-between any 2 modules and feed power from where ever we want. We have a 2nd male/female DB25 dongle that feeds the 12v for accessories to the modules.

    For shorts we have a PSX circuit breakers with buzzer and a R-Ramp meter inline on the DCC feed. For DC we have a Amp and Volt meter inline mounted next to the throttles.

    For switching from DC to DCC and back each loop is wired individually for DC then if we chose to run DCC we simply disconnect the 2 wires from the power feed dongle from the DC pack and hook them to a DCC supply We do not have any other DCC accessories on our modules at this time. Most turnouts are Marklin manual throw the few that are powered are wired to the 12v backbone and thrown by pushbuttons mounted on the sides of the module. (Note) we recreantly wired in a 2nd hidden switch that has to be pushed and held while hitting the momentary switch to throw the turnouts so kids at the show don't push the button and thrower switch on us. Kids and easy access buttons = not a good idea.

    Having fold down leg's on your modules makes setup go a lot faster. having to stop and bolt 4 leg's on each module takes up a lot of time.
    Paint or otherwise seal all sides of any lumber to help prevent the wood from warping.
    Use quality lumber of sufficient dimensions to span the length of your module. You don't want to have to be dealing with constant derailments from your module sagging in the middle.
    Devise some kind of catch, clamp, hook, Velcro, to hold the DB25 cable ends up so they are not hanging down in harms way when transporting the module.
    Don't let the track get too close to the outside edges of the module. Make the module wider if need be. So a derailment has room to land and stay on the module and not fall directly to the floor.
     
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  6. SJ Z-man

    SJ Z-man TrainBoard Member

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    Sorry for not replying but glad others did.
    1st: Why the choice of Z-Bend Track versus say T-Trak? Do you have ZBT modules in your area so you can participate, a few times each year? I ask as I started in 2005 with quite a few ZBT modules within our group and about 3 shows a year sometimes 4 or even 5 times a year. Now, we are 100's of miles away and rarely get together for shows. Therefore, I am moving to T-Trak modules and only keeping 2 of my ZBT modules with T-Trak adapters. I'll be building a home layout using T-Trak that I can use for shows too. My ZBT modules are "Bend-ed" so take up more room to transport and are also fairly heavy, even built with quality light materials. Mostly from a lot of electronics, wiring, Tortoise and ballast.

    Now, on to the questions:

    1) Accessory power. I used the ubiquitous 12 Volts @ 5 Amps (Resettable circuit breaker). Each module can use it directly or use simple Buck-Converters available from Amazon, eBay, Adafruit, etc. for $2-$5 each.

    2) DB-25 cables are connected to white 7 Amp "Euro" terminal strips, 10 'position' under each cable and track. The wiring order emulates the Outer rail-Outer track, Outer rail-Inner track, Accessory +, - and the 4 DCC wires (more on that, later)
    Hand written or label at the terminal strip. You could use the black 'barrier' screw strips (a.k.a. Cinch-Jones).

    3) Between the each end's terminal blocks, you need some track feeders and possibly some more if there are turnouts so more track. This can be tapped from either end's terminal block (2 or 3 conductors inserted. Still, there needs to be connections for each track and Accessory (and DCC) to each end. At first, I just ran 22 gauge wire. Later, to make sure there full power throughout the larger module layouts, I used 18 gauge Red/Black "DC" zip-cord available everywhere. All of these conductors and cables were generally run under the track area and secured with nylon cable clamps or 1" square stick-on Ty-rap blocks.

    4) The DCC option on 22-25 is pretty much your own use. Since the trains run on the track and you connect your Train Controller DC or DCC to this track, this is already distributed in each ZBT cable that everyone uses (pins 1-19). The 4 extra pins should be used for your own purpose. Our BAZ BoyZ use 22-23 as 1 Amp current limited for internal module use (the breaker is on the main module with the DCC Booster. The 24-25 pins carry the full 5 Amps for other use. This is used primarily for large layouts, to supply remote circuit breakers. Since all of our modules use all of these pins, they will still work everywhere.

    5) Power routing does help with running reliability. This depends though on which manufacturer or self-made. For DC, the Rokuhan and MTL turnouts can be configured for Power Routing. This helps on passing tracks or spurs to be isolated from each other, as needed. Other's like märklin, have to be isolated by plastic joiners.

    6) The wiring kits were helpful, but all you need is a 50 cent D-sub 25 connector, 20 cent shell and $20 for 50-100' of Red/Black zip-cord. A labeler helps too but you can use color shrink tubing (or white, then write) works to help someone else figure it out. I used Black 22 gauge as "common", in polarity sense and stripped a 6 conductor 22 gauge cable for it's colors. Red for Outer track, White for Inner track, Green for Accessory, Blue for 3rd (passing) track, Orange . . . .

    7) As Rob Ray mentioned 12 volt LEDs (or 1K ohm and standard LED) for track power. 2 per module side. For DC, you can use any color but, you might consider Red/Green to show Normal or Reversed direction. If DCC is supplied, it will look Orange. For DCC, the LED's show track power but each module has a panel for the DCC system that shows data buss power. This is helpful when you don't see track power but you know the buss is OK. The PSX breakers are huge and $40 but can have Sonolerts (Piezo transducers) to indicate shorts. They are available in different 'tones' including pulsing rates and dee-dew 2 tones. If you just run with just a 'starter' set or don't really need a circuit breaker, you can make a simple one using and SCR (silicon controlled rectum finder) [for you 60's folk] or transistor to drive a Sololert when the power is off. With supply to the layout or Train Controller on, the loss of track power drives the Sonolert (or relay to drive higher power device).

    8) I tried foam board and regretted that it was a PAIN to mount turnout controllers, feeding track feeders thru or mounting items on top that would stay put. You also relay on the frame only for mechanical rigidity. I found it easier to just use the frame (and 1x2 gusset) with 1/8 ply. Cut where needed and place the 1-2" foam under for low level formations). As for the ZBT interface, 1/8" is 2 thin, 1/4's OK but kiln dry clear pin/fir or Baltic-Birch ply is light and strong.

    9) We generally do a no-ZBT connector test but in reality, it is not so needed as before, as we know our modules. if you are connecting up with unknowns, it makes it easier to find miss-wired modules and such.

    Legs ? Unfortunately, 50" is not half of a 8' piece (48"). But, you need adjustable legs so that is at least 1" less but still 49". So you could cut of 1-1/2" and be close enough. Use threaded inserts (the 1" long ones are best). Use a C-clamp on the narrow width of the leg to keep it from splitting. We use Hex-head, 3" long, all-thread bolts with a rubber cap on the hex-head (one of those floor protector types). I used 1x4 clear fir, with horizontal dado'd pieces to make a frame leg (2 pairs instead of 4 individual legs). it makes them stable. Single 1x4 legs sorta work but if the layout is straight, it usually gets a bit wobbly, especially with shorter kids hanging on the sides, baby strollers and just about everything else bumping into the layout. Our modules are so multi-angled, its sorta OK.

    What have we learned?

    It is 50" to the top of the track. It is 3" below the top of the track to the ZBT module joining holes. So . . . whatever track vender, roadbed or not, it is 3" to the ZBT hole centers. Some did not do this so you will need 1/4" bolts, instead the 5/16 normally used. Use all-thread 5/16x2" bolts as some modules may have thinner end plates. Bring longer 5/16-2x1/2" bold (with normal solid shanks) in case some super thick end plate issues. Use a Fender washer along with a flat washer, if you want to make the holes last longer, every time you crush the modules to alignment. Bring extra bolts, I forgot mine. Store your bolts in small plastic containers under each module. Color code the bins for some.
    Bring a flat 1/8x2"x4-1/2" long piece of aluminum with a 50" mark on it. Makes for quick leveling reference.
    NO ONE builds a square module, so ZBT End plate may not not be vertical square. NO ONE lays the track on center. NO ONE tapers the roadbed from the last tie under the setback track to, the end of the modules.

    Use Micro-Trains 990 40 909 rail joiners. They are much stronger than the marklin joiners.
     
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  7. marmot

    marmot TrainBoard Supporter

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    Thank you for taking the time to provide some great answers so far. This is useful to me.

    I prefer Z-Bend over T-Trak-Z because my ideas for my first couple of modules require a larger contiguous area (2' x 3' or 2' by 4') for scenery. That fits right in with other typical ZBT modules. I don't know of other ZBT modules near me yet, but I'm also expecting to travel to other states to meet others, such as MO, TX, CA, etc. The portability and modularity of ZBT is attractive to me even within my own house, assuming a few modules.
     
  8. SJ Z-man

    SJ Z-man TrainBoard Member

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    I'll post some D-sub connector wiring examples later when they get uploaded.

    For End modules, you can just use one cable with a D-sub Male and Female connectors. This is made with one a Wire-Wrap soldered to a standard solder cup connector.

    Also for End modules, not just that you only need 2 legs but go 'big' (wider) this lets you not only have larger radii for more realistic running.

    And more 'curves' (single or back-to-back e.g. 'S' curve) so it helps to live up to the Z 'Bend' Track. Just remember, flex track helps with transition in and out of straight and curves but, watch out for direct back-to-back to S curves. That's trouble for 'side swipes' with one car end overhangs one way and the other car the opposite way causing derails. Leave a single car length straight between the curves but you can get away with half that using flex.

    And make illusion of grades using scenery, otherwise it starts to look like 'plywood plains'. ;)
     
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  9. SJ Z-man

    SJ Z-man TrainBoard Member

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    K, back to train world . . .
    Here is a document on how to make ZBT cables:

    Just don't use clear Speaker wire as it is harder to remember the outer rail is 'positive' (red).
    The Right hand rule for DC locomotives is Red wire on the right goes 'forward'.

    Best to use Red/Black "DC" Power cable, 18 AWG. You will still have to label either type with an 'Outer', 'Inner' and 'Accessory' label, if you don't use a multi-conductor cable like Alpha Wire 1819/10C Ten conductor (for DCC) or 1819/6C for the simple layout (no extra distribution wires for DCC)

    When making the cables, 18" is best, 12" will easily reach the other module's cable . . unless there some leg-panels or bracing. The 18" ones will reach around.

    Right side of the modules (Track on top) is Female. Left side is Male.
    End modules can use a single cable with a double-sided D-sub (as you can see in the ZBT manual).

    I suggest one of these double-sided configuration with say 25' of wires at shows (I'd use a 6 conductor cable, its easier and cleaner looking on the floor) as you always be surprised who forgot some thing or, someone has a module (or2 or 3 or...) and hasn't had a chance to get their wiring done. Use 2 one-to-one Male-Female cable or 1 of the double connector. Also, a short pair of 18 cables so you can twist wires.

    Hear are my master connectors, to make sure I made, to make sure of soldering on the back side (n) ZBT Color code master -Track side.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 12, 2020
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  10. SJ Z-man

    SJ Z-man TrainBoard Member

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    OK, attaching content SUCKS. BOTH pix were Full Screen, not thumbnails. Preview does NOT show all and getting them inserted where the Cursor is and CR's so they're stack spaced. . . .
    Here are a couple more images of the End module or Tap connector cables (Male-Female back-to-back) using a Wire-wrap connector and a standard solder-cup connector.

    The track power side:
    ZBT Double tap DC side.jpg

    The Accessory (and Control / DCC ) side:
     

    Attached Files:

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  11. marmot

    marmot TrainBoard Supporter

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    Thanks again! There are at least a few things I wouldn't have thought of, such as having a bypass cable available at shows.

    The attachment with the ZBT soldering instructions is very good for me to see. And your pics are the first I've seen of soldering examples so I can visualize it. Every little bit helps me since it's giving me a jump - as if I have a little more experience so I can speed up my assembly process.
     

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