We still use the Z-Bend Track for shows, 1-3 times a year (closer to 1x/yr). I made a 3'x4' as we use large radii. The ZBT standard is 2' (24") so the 2 main lines still come in at the 9"/1" of center (18" & 20", respectively). Tracks balloon outward to create 14" to 17" radii loops. That helps us run 100+ cars through the many "Bend's" The plan was to demonstrate "How to make a Layout" After drawing ZBT module interface alignments, I begin with the roadbed cork, the the start depth for flex track (I have the MTL & Rokuhan to show the equivalent), then paint rails, then ballasting. I then show 2 ways to do scenery, what you can easily do in 1-2 hours. The Newspaper/Plaster cloth or pink Foam based. After that, is really the same, slapping on Latex pain and shaking various Ground Foam on, then misting with Glue Water. Each step is 4" starting at the module interface, on each side, that meets at the module's End centerline. For the trackwork, the 4 starting steps, its all weathered and ballasted to keep the realism, using Atlas Turnouts here and there. The module has a scenery divider that separates techniques, side-to-side. Once Atlas figures out how to throw bar for the turnouts (preferably underneath), I can adapt John Allen's famous 'Time Saver' Switching layout. Robert Ray had one on his Trestle and Grainery module when I met him. And this has to be a Micro-Trains-only operation as AZL's don't uncouple (yet). Below is the original John Allen 'Time Saver' in HO. 2 general ways to play: Loco with cars are moved off the Main are 2 versions. Its sorta like an OPS session. The cars are switched to there labeled location (generally random marker at se up). And then the reverse of that (i.e. make up a train and onto the Main. The other play is to move each current car location to complete opposites. No hard rules. Here is a link for more info: http://www.wymann.info/ShuntingPuzzles/sw-timesaver.html One is with the Time Saver in its normal parallel track for show storage and another with more suitable spacing and angled spurs to place structures and such. So I like the more angular but it may be more complicated (uh, foggy head) to which building and type where. Either way, it's about 11' more to run on
I have been quite happy with the Model Train Control Systems MP1 switch motor. It routes power for the frog, can be set to a 3 mm throw distance, and can be controlled with a simple SPDT or DPDT switch. I got some of these switches called "DaierTek Lighted Toggle Switch 12V Waterproof Toggle Switch IP67 12 Volt LED Toggle Switch RGB(RED Green Blue) 16mm Pre-Wired" that are On-Off-On. You can set one side to be red and the other green for a simple lighted indicator through or divergent.
Kurt, I have a lot of image captures of ‘compacted’ switching locations and crossings of multiple angles so I was ‘bending’ the spurs out a bit for realism. Just have to find some structures, hopefully from my hundreds of ‘scenes’ captures. I plan to use the same, configuring it for ‘slide’ instead of default ‘arc’. But there are some issues. The Switch has very little movement allowance (credit card thickness). While the points have the ‘snap’ design (yes, THANK you Steven), the tension wires protrude slightly underneath (helps hold it together) and ‘snag’ if placed on cork/wood surface. So you need some clearance Side-to-side under the points bar. And since it is a ‘snap’, it just needs a ‘nudge’ either side to flip it, like the MTL/Rokuhan/märklin and Atlas N. I’m trying to stay away from the side attached (ugly) but the Atlas 2715 and 585 are promising hacks. I would do it all in MTL switches because they run smoother than the Rokuhan (and fairly negligible side mount) but want to do it in Atlas, without a Caboose Industries’s 206S (way to much throw torque). I saw this mechanism on a FreeMoN for a manual finger slide but I could not get someone who remembers the source (the modules were inherited).
Nice work Jeff! I was wondering, would you want to use the Caboose throws if you could eliminate some of the unwanted tension? If so, you could connect them using something like .020 wire with a V bend (pocketed into the surface terrain for aesthetics) to absorb some of the tension. Admittedly, I've never used those throws, but I can't see why it couldn't work with a little tinkering. Here's a very crude makeshift version using paperclips:
For now, i think I will use the Caboose Hobbies, to test run-ability. After that, I will use the Train Control Systems MP1 underneath. https://www.modelrailroadcontrolsystems.com/mp1-version-2-switch-motor/ The frog will be connected to Frog Juicers. I'll need to know enough for 50' cars (assumes 40's should be better), have all the polarities throughout and no dead spots (I plan to double-head, to guarantee' slow running. After that, I'll a half thin lower roadbed and the 1/8" magnets (from Home Depot and some issues back article. I'll rout out the rectangle shape and tape them in and if properly working, RTV them in the notch underneath.
