Folks -- What have you used successfully to dam a water pour? In order to make it look realistic, the elevation of the creek bed drops from the layout to the edge. I tried duct tape. I tried cardboard glued to the side of the benchwork. I jacked up the benchwork to try to create a level creekbed. I finally crammed a plastic spoon into a narrow place in the creek, and it helped some. In the final analysis, I still wound up with a floor full of Magic Water (which despite my inability to contain in on the layout, seems to be a good product). There has to be a better way to do this than I have found. As always, many thanks! Hal
Dam water solutions... Howdy. I have a question regarding what exactly you need, but will post a couple of solutions that will hopefully fit the bill (of that duck that wants to swim in your water...) It sounds like you're creating a creek? How wide is it at the edge of the layout? Here's a couple of solutions for you. First, if it's 3-4 inches wide or less, try using one of those plastic inserts in all the Micro-Trains car boxes. Attach it with silicone glue and clamp into place until dry. Use a 1x4" or something of your benchwork to get a tight fit. You can paint over it or whatever to help it blend in. Once in place, pour your water, and make sure the module/layout section is level! For a larger body of water, I'd use a 1/8" piece of plexiglas from Lowes (GO Team 48!) attached to the edge of the layout the same way. Then blend it with 1/8" masonite fascia, and it should hook you up. Hope this helps! Adam
Hey, Adam -- Thanks for the suggestions! The creek at the edge of the layout is maybe 2" wide. I suspect your silicone glue idea will work...the problem was in getting a seal. Do you have any experience with a resin compound and its interface with silicone? WTH. Anything will work better than duct tape. Regards. Hal
Hal: I would use some hydrocal/plaster and then remove it after the resin has set up. I would also place some rocks at the end of the layout near the creek bed. Stay cool and run steam.....
I used masking tape and nary a drop of water on the floor. The leaks may not be coming from the edge. I would strongly suggest that you turn off the lights and crawl under the table with a flashlight. Shine it upwards and have someone standing up mark off the pinholes of light coming through.
Hi Hal! Dave Williams the Magic Water guy here. If you havent already you can dam it easily with a piece of smooth flat styrene plastic caulked with clear silicone. Will easily remove when resin has set. Any questions you all may have about the product or doing water scenes please let me know. Thats why I put my phone and e-mail in each box. Hope this helps! Sincerely, Dave
Oh and about the leaks. You might do a test run with some water first to check for leaks. If you do have one try 5 minute epoxy, duct tape, or silicone to at least slow it down. Have had it happen more than Id like to admit. Overconfidence or bad eyes and old age I guess. Dave
One thing I tried, was to use a latex paint to paint the creek bed and lake up to the water line, as a sealer. I used bath tub caulk to seal a small piece of clear Plexiglas across the layout edge, and screwed it in place permanently. It was 4" tall by 6" wide to cover the opening. The top edge was trimmed to fit surrounding scenery. Then I painted the creek and lake bottom the colors I wanted, added a couple of fish glued to the top of some rocks and poured just enough "water" to cover the fish. Added a fish on a fisherman's hook, poured the rest of the water up to level. Added a swimmer close to the edge in front of the glass "window", and allowed it to cure out. I could look through the window and "see" under water. It didn't leak.
As usual, great ideas all. My original thought was Bob's suggestion -- to build and then remove a hydrocal dam. I hadn't thought about leaks coming through the foamboard itself, though, and I will take that suggestion as well. Many thanks to all. Stay tuned; I'll let you know what worked. Or didn't! Hal
hhg3law , It might be a good idea to spread a disposable tarp on the floor to cover a large area under where you will have the "Water". Place some 2x2's on all 4 sides and tape the tarp's edges up over the top of these blocks to form a large pan. This Will contain any possible leaks, and preserve the floor. When finished, the tarp and blocks can be removed and discarded. It is easier to throw this tarp away, than try to remove cured plastic water out of your rug.
Another method! Hi, just stumbled across this thread. Have just used envirotex to pour two rivers on a corner Ntrak module. First time I tried the masking tape theory, and ended up with most of the "water" on my patio. Unless you have a completely smooth edge, do not use any sort of tape. You will never get a sealed edge. The second river attempt I used a bead of clear caulking along the edge. This worked perfectly, and it just peeled off with no issues whatsoever. I did line the river bed with plaster cloth, then sealed all the tiny holes in the cloth with another layer of plaster cloth and a layer of spackle. Also added any bottom details and painted the river bed at this time. No issues with using envirotex, just be sure to mix it well. Didn't get bubbles that some have seen after it set, and if you do, just run a hair dryer or even better, a small butane torch over the area. Any bubbles will vanish.
