Interesting concept using the expandable foam to extend the layout. Indeed, the control box is very cool and simplistic enough for the "very young" kids to operate.
The canned foam, once carved has lots of open cell bubble holes that plaster cloth sticks to very well, so I like to use that as my base scenery shell. And yes, my grandkids love to race the trains around the tree, so this simple controller is perfect. So after testing the track I masked it off for hardshell with plaster cloth: Next I mix a small amount of Yellow Ocra, Raw Umber, Burnt Umber, and Sepia water color into a spray bottle. You can see how much I use as I squirted out the same amount from each tube onto the inside top of the spray bottle. I just shake it up real good, and spray the plaster cloth with this water: Then I cut small strips of plaster cloth, drape the over the foam, mist with colored water, and rub them in with my finger in Nitrile Gloves, and the plaster spreads smooth. Here is the hardshell applied to the whole thing, it took about 30 minutes. I will let it dry before applying ground foam and static grass:
I was playing around with a different version of a cheap power regulator off amazon that was similarly listed. The issue I had with it is that rated voltage had a similar range that didn't include zero. The lowest the voltage would go was 1.8v on the one I got. So you couldn't connect it to a 12V input and have a 0 to 12V selectivity. Are the regulators that you are using the same, or can you actually turn it down to 0V? Really only an issue with stock Shorties that don't have a resistor and go warp speed at 3V. Otherwise the updated trackwork/layout is looking great!
No these regulators stay at 12V regardless of the PWM setting. Also at the lowest setting the pot clicks off, and the power LED turns off. Just clicking them on and the locos do not move, it takes about 1/8 turn till they start to go, but it is a duty cycle of 12V for a few milliseconds and 0V for the remainder of the time period. They call that a PWM "Duty Cycle".
Today I peeled up the track masking, and applied scenery masking in prep for airbrushing the track: I had not paid attention to the track I had received, and somehow, half of the track was wood ties as I had ordered, but the other half was white ties representing concrete. Anyways, I like to kill the shine on the ties, as well as paint the rail sides, so I lightly airbrushed the track with Floquil Roof Brown. I will apply ballast to the sides later on, as well as sand the rail heads smooth, but first I have to make precise fitting templates for the train station platform and grade crossings. Once those are in I can apply ballast:
Looking very cool Robert on your Christmas Tree layout. Really like your control panel that you created! Amazing all that you can do on your laser printer!
Today I did some work on the platforms. I cut them from 1/32" plywood, and dyed with a drop of black paint in acetone: After gluing the platforms in place I tested the lights OK: Next I started on the ballast, but guests arrived before I could finish, so this is where I leave it for today:
Excellent work! That laser-cut platform between the tracks with the irregular curve and straight is impeccably cut!
Rob, Nice scene with the locomotive! Nice work with the platform! One suggestion though, can you create or get more era appropriate lights for the platform? Scott
Been busy since Friday helping my nephew move out, and Saturday my son and I assembled a very complex backyard griddle/pizza oven, so I was not able to touch the layout until today. All I did was cut a couple layers of 1/10" (2.5mm) wide edge strips and glue on to form a 1/4" (6mm) high edge barrier so I could finish applying all the ballast. The plan is that tomorrrow I will sand the edges and stain green, then polish the rails clean for running, and setup the Christmas Tree. And for Scott, I attempted top modify the lamp posts a bit more old timey for you... and me too!
Robert Ray, Damn, you nailed it! You da man! You are inspirational. But you have to do an SBS on those lights. Scott
