I've started a 3x6 layout, laid all the track, fully wired for DCC, and started on ballas and scenery (my weak spot). But I haven't done anything for the past year, so it's been sitting in my garage. Sunday, I cleaned the tops of the rails with the eraser type cleaner, and tried to get several locos to run. I finally got my SD-60 to run slightly. It's obvious the rails are still dirty and oxidized. What's the best way to get the rails clean and oxidation removed? And one other question, I screwed up and glued a turnout when laying ballast. What are my options short of ripping it out and replacing it? Thanks... The best photo thread is inpiring me to get started again.
I use Maas Polish. I got it from Home Depot although it is hard to find there since it is in the lawn mower section to clean the blades. To unglue switches is almost impossible. Even if it is white glue. I think you have to look at replacing it, especially if it is in a spot where you cannot get to it so easily. You don't want to wait until the scenery is completely done and rip it out.
91% alcohol for the tracks. If not, use a bright boy or similar, but it will scratch the surface of the tracks. The Atlas cleaning car might just work without the abrasive sanding pad. As to the turnout- What kind of glue, which brand turnout and which code track? Manual or automatic?
I'd try warm water and maybe even some soap in it to loosen the glue. If that doesn't work go to more serious solvents like alcohol. Maybe plastic safe oil would loosen the switch. Start with warm water first. Maybe even lay a paper towel over it to keep it moist and let it sit for a while.
If it isn't elmers white glue then it has resins in it and will be near impossible to remove. So it is a redo. As for the track. The ussual suspects, bright boy, track cleaner on a cloth etc. But if it is glue from scenery I use a nail file, one of those paper ones for women. It does not harm the rails, too soft, yet is abrasive enough to remove mistakes etc. Hope that helps.
If the switch machine is under the turnout, remove it before pouring water! No need go buy another Tortoise, see? It is usually better to replace the turnout, but if you wish to keep it anyway, cut the rails, remove the turnout, and put it in a pan of water with a few drops of detergent, then warm it on the stove just to where it gets too hot to hold your hand in the water, then take it off. Turn the stove off. Repeat this until the points move easily and you can not see or feel any glue when cool. Change to fresh clean water each time. This has worked in the past, and usually takes several days, working over and over of an evening. Then oil the points with WD-40, wipe off excess, and replace it on the layout. You may still have trouble with electrical contact. If a test shows the movable points are now insulated, run separate wires to them with flex-loops. Solder both ends of wires. Best to NOT add ballast around these points now. Experience teaches a hard lesson when you are poor, or stubborn. (I wont admit to nothin'!)
What i've always used and still do is some 600 grit 3M wet or dry sandpaper (used dry) followed by clean rags and isopropyl alcohol. Ernie
