Are the ends of your reversing section insulated using regular insulated rail joiners? In my experience the center 'tab' in insulated joiners is lower than the railhead. This creates a tiny low spot that a metal wheel can drop into and momentarily connect the insulated rail ends electrically. On a reversing section that could easily lead to bridging the reversing section at both ends at once if the train is long enough. Luckily the fix is easy and doesn't involve modifying a single car. Whenever I have an insulated rail gap I take some styrene and/or thick super glue (depending on how wide the gap is) and make sure the gap is TOTALLY filled in, then carefully file everything flush with the railhead. This removes the tiny dip created by the insulated joiner and makes sure metal wheels roll over without electrically bridging the gap.
Conflict between MRC Auto Reverser and DCC Booster Dave, I think that I have the answers that you are looking for. Basically, I think that you need to do things: 1. Extend your reversing sections longer than your longest train, as we discussed in this thread. 2. Solve the likely incompatibility between the SLOW relay switching MRC 5-Amp Auto-Reverser AND your DCC booster. This manifests itself as confusion between the ARvand booster. What type/model is this booster? You can probably solve this two ways: A. Check the DCC Booster manual and adjust the likely fast solid state breaker for a switch time that is longer than the MRC 5 Amp Auto Reverser (AR). I think that the MRC DCC AR is switching after the short circuit breaker in the Booster. B. Replace the MRC AR with a modern booster that a fast switch time using solid state electronics with an adjustable current trip. The preferred AR is usually the Tony’s Trains ASR series of Auto Reversers but other usually more expensive solid state ARs are available from other vendors. Doing this will reduce the time and short circuit current that the N-scale equipment is subjected to and make your system operate reliably. Here is a Trainboard discussion in the DCC and Electronics section, on using ARs from Sep 21, 2001 titled: “DCC Use on N-16 Layout Reverse Loop”. See the response here from Gary Pfeil. - Tonkphilip
Inkaneer........all the track is Atlas code 55, nothing else. I didn't gap anything, but the frogs are totally isolated i.e. no rails touch the frog. TonkPhilip.........Thanks for the tips. I already took your advice on the 3M connectors, but I took it a step farther and bought Sabaok connectors, which crimp on just like 3M connectors, but instead of crimping the bus wire into the connector, the Sabaok connector accepts a spade connector, so I can plug and unplug my feeder wires onto the bus. It makes it easy to plug things in, or swap wires around if needed. I also drew out my track plan on the plywood before starting. All my electronics are MRC. I have 2 base units , the primary is a Prodigy Elite with the original corded throttle, and then a wireless antenna with 2 Prodigy wireless throttles for walk-around control. I also have a Prodigy advance with a corded throttle and an MRC Wifi module, but it is primarily for NTRAK setups. The reversers are MRC AD520, which is the only one MRC makes ( I actually have 3 and they all behave the same way).
Tonk........I'm going to try extending the reverse section. I'm still not convinced it will solve the issue, but it certainly won't hurt anything, and nothing else is working. I'm going to research some other ARs..........I don't actually have a booster, the Prodigy Elite is a 10 amp base, and that has seemed to be adequate. The AD520 is the AR MRC recommends, but of course they recommend their own.
Dave, OK that is a good start. You definitely need the longer reversing section. But, look at the MRC manual in case there any timing current adjustments. - Tonkphilip
Dave, 10 Amps is an awful lot for a short circuit with N scale equipment. You might think about getting some adjustable circuit breakers, set to say 1 or two Amps for each part of your layout with a similar setting on the Auto Reverser. - Tonkphilip
Dave, I recommend the Tony’s/ DCC Specialties PSX series of adjustable breakers and reversers and their application notes. They should clear up all your issues with Kato metal wheels. You may also be able to get more help on the DCC AND Electronics section of Trainboard. - Tonkphilip
Thanks........I believe that was who I was looking at for the reverser for the loop for the staging yard. They make one that will throw the turnout as well as auto reverse. Still trying to work out the final configuration because it throws the turnout the opposite direction each time and I want the trains to always circle the staging yard the same direction........so I need something to always return the turnout to the same position.......probably a detector about 2/3 of the way up the ramp that will always throw the turnout to the straight thru route......so trains going up would throw the turnout back after the last car was clear of the turnout, and cars headed down would throw it straight before they entered the loop. I don't have the DCC unit set to 10 amps........I think it's set at 3, but it's there if I need it. Even 3 is a bit high (On our NTRAK we use 2 amp auto fuses on our DC supplies and still melt the occasional truck) but I've never had an issue with the DCC supply.........it seems to trip instantaneously. I've thought about splitting the layout into districts.........my buss wire is laid out in an E (just like the layout shape) so there are 3 legs coming from the base...........I would just need to add breakers and put in a few insulated joiners to isolate the rails.
Dave, That sounds like a very good plan. At minimum, you might be able to get away with one breaker for the two dogleg tracks. One AR for the long track between the Wye and the staging turnout and one breaker for the staging tracks. - Tonkphilip
