Well, I got mine yesterday, and I have to say that it is a fine locomotive. In fact I have to agree with others, it is better than the mikado. It does in fact pull more. But what really impressed me was the drivers and wheels were blackened from the factory. That really goes a long way into making it look better. On my micro-trains mogul, and my marklin mikado, I had to painstakingly paint the wheels and drive rods to get that chrome shiney toylike look off. I haven't taken a pciture yet, but I will upload one here by this weekend. My advice is this, not including the AZL daylights, because I have not seen one run other than on video, this is the best steamer I have personally seen run in Z.
To tell you the truth, that loco runs better than the AZL Daylight's that I have seen run. Terry Sutfin was nudging his along to get it to go at the NTS in Seattle last summer, and last weekend, we were nudging Loren Snyder's on our BAZ modules at the Cow Palace. For some reason the two AZL 4-8-4's were not good runners. We are hoping that to one that Ted Lamar has on lay-away will run well, or it will be 3 for 3. Now back to the Pacific... You will be well pleased with it, as I feel it is the best Z Scale steamer to date, any manufacturer. All this is just based off my own experiences, but I seen Andy Hunting double head a pair and pull 20 car trains at the NTS last summer. I have ran mine, and am happy with it, and everyone I have talked to who have them are very happy. You did good! -Robert
Robert, I received an e-mail from Ted today stating the same thing about the GS4. I am very surpirsed. I have found the GS4 to be one of the best runners. Very smooth and strong. It does need broad curves to work well. According to Ted, the problem was on the straight away. I e-mail both Ted and and Loren back with a number of questions. I am awaiting to hear back from Loren. I suspect that a little adjustment on the front trucks may solve the problem. I talked to Terry about his problems. He found the problems to be more track related. I will need to talk with him some more to see if he had the problem worked out. Otherwise, it may just need broken in. Ted stated it did need oiled. I am also wondering if there is a little debris in the gearing. One of the issues with the GS series is the complexity of the side rods and gearing (see photo below). This has got to be perfect to operate well. We have sent over 12 back to Ajin for repair since we were unhappy with the performance. I really would like to find out the issue since this is not common. - Rob Kluz
I hope Ted goes through with his order, and he gets one pre-tested good, because it is a beautiful sight to see that train on our modules. Yes, it was on the straight-away that we had the problems, The engine ran fine on the turns which were the 11" radius balloon tracks, but seemed to balk on the straight tracks going forward. We ran it in reverse for about 15 minutes, and it ran better, but still stalled at least once, each trip around the modules. After that, we took the loco off and examined the drivers and underneath, but seen nothing wrong except that the 4 gears visible from the bottom looked shiny and unlubricated. We lubed it up, and were able to get the locomotive to run around the track in Forward, however it still stalled a couple times a trip around at random locations. Loren was busy with crowd's at his Silverware Layout, so he did not get much of a chance to see what was happening with it. Ted and I fiddled and fussed for a while longer, then decided to put my SD45 on and pull some Centerbeams. The SD45 ran flawlessly. -Robert
Robert, Your post makes me feel much better. I think this locomotive needs a good break-in period. Also, the front trucks might be hanging slightly. This can also make the loco stall. The way Ted made it sound, it could not even go 4 - 6 inches without stalling. Question, do you use Gaugemasters or Relco on the modules? I test each loco on my layout, but I have Relcos installed. I will have to have Loren play with the loco for a while. I do personally guarantee every loco for a year and would be glad to replace it if he is not happy. The SD45s are great locos. I think they are the best locomotive from AZL. When running these with a F45, C44, or SD40-2 the pulling power is amazing! By the way... AZL now has a pre-production sample of the AC-12 cab forward. All I can say is WOW! Rob Kluz
So with the cab forward being the 2nd steam release, can we assume that AZL might decide to start making more steam, perhaps of the smaller varitey? Mikados, Pacifics, Consolidations, Ten Wheelers? I realize that marklin has realsed versions of a few of these, but boy when you consider how prototypical the valve gear and details were in the daylight that was produced, I can only imagine how well they could make any of the above mentioned locos look! I know, probably just high hopes, but boy if they did, and could do it with a plastic shell to save some of the costs like in their later releases, I think they would sell quite well!
I think I can safely say yes, AZL is planning more steam releases. The cab forward will be a brass release. AZL is looking seriously at the followup steam release after the cab forward. They are looking at all options including smaller locos. They are also looking at injection runs instead of brass. The only question is if the injection runs will have all the detail the brass runs. Rob Kluz
Well, that is good news. Heck, if they can at least get the side rods and valve gear correct for the north american steamers, I think a whole lot of people, including myself would be happy!
We did not have anything except the MRC 1300 power packs. I don't know anything about the Relco or Gaugemaster yet. I am kind of leery using those type of things with a coreless motor, but I have never really tried one yet. As far as what kinds of steam I think AZL will make, I would suspect they will all be SP prototypes, an AZL favorite, which is the only thing holding me back from brass steam. Since I want to model Northern Pacific for steam, nothing the SP had looks like stuff the NP had, so I have to modify whatever I buy. -Robert
I swear by Relcos (basically same as the Gaugemaster). I have noticed a huge improvement in operations since I put these on my layout years ago. There is no problem running coreless motors with the devices. The three main Z operators in Columbus do it all the time. I would definitely try them out. Notice though, you do not need them if you are doing DCC. DCC acts is the same manor as the Gaugemasters to improve operations and keep trains moving smoothly. As for AZL, I wouldn't bet that we will only see SP prototypes.
I use a gaugemaster myself. I don't really know how, but it does work. It is very difficult to stall an engine with it. I am probably going to pick up another one here soon. As for the future steam from AZL, I am totally excited. I haven't decided on a set road yet, so I am very excited!
I use a Relco on my N-Scale layout. I know for a fact that it will also clean and keep clean motor commutators. My Marklin 81535 set is still in the box waiting for the eventual move to a condo/townhouse. Al
Where do you guy's get these Gaugemasters and Relco's? I did some internet searching and the only place I find them is in .uk shops. All the eBay listings come up GBP. There are several sites that review them, saying that they put 150-200 volts high frequency spikes onto the rails, and some people claim they can feel a shock? I wonder if they are outlawed in the US? I also read that they do seem to help balky loco's, unless the train has onboard lighting interior lighting which negates the effect, yet most all locomotives have a headlight? Now I am really interested in one of these devices and simply must test one with a scope. -Robert
I use a Relco I bought off ebay( unit came from UK) and my spare is a Electronic Track Cleaner by Miniatronics. Also bought off ebay - I think BLW used to carry these. It is a USA product but is really a Relco design(I think). Here are three pictures of the relco output - quick and dirty - please excuse focus. The scope vertical sense is 5v/div. 1: no throttle voltage no engine on track http://members.cox.net/alhoop/relco1.jpg 2: max throttle no engine on track http://members.cox.net/alhoop/relco2.jpg 3: no throttle voltage engine on track http://members.cox.net/alhoop/relco3.jpg If you want to build your own, T.J.Byers published a schematic in Nuts&Volts several years ago. Sorry I can't locate the article now. P.S. found it- Nuts & Volts magazine December 2001 page 57. Al [ February 23, 2005, 06:37 PM: Message edited by: alhoop ]
Glenn and Sandy Stiska in Largo, FL are the US distributors of Gaugemasters. They advertise in the Marketplace section of Ztrack. Their e-mail address is: stiska@earthlink.net. Their phone number is 727 535-3819. They are great folks to deal with and very helpful! Rob Kluz
Rob, can you tell me the difference between the C44's and the SD-40 's, because there sure is a price differential. I would get the C44 if it has the same running gear.
the C44, SD40-2, SD45, and even the SD40T-2s all use different chassis. The design is similar with the 8mm Faulhauber, and dual flywheels powering the locomotives. The lengths are different in order to keep the locos 100% prototypical. There are a few reasons for the price difference. First, the C44s were produced in 1999 and released in 2000. The SD40s were released in 2003. There were 500 C44s produced compared to 300 SD40s, thus more units allowed for lower individual costs. The SD40s due have an improved chassis and running characteristics. They also come DCC ready with a slot pre-wired. Another very important factor for the price difference is licensing. When the C44s were released, the UP did not require licensing fees. That has changed. AZL is fully licensed with the UP as well as the other roads they model. This has caused a increase in the cost of the locomotives. Both are very good locomotives and will serve you well. Rob Kluz
Thanks a lot Rob, now I have to order one. If my wife finds out how much I paid that little locomotive I will blame it on you, and that you made me buy it.
