Well I guess this could be an all scale thing, but since I model in N I am going to write this up here. I am planning on building a new command station box for shows that will be compatible with N-Track as well as T-Trak and also allow "DC" operations on all 4 outputs. I guess I am getting ahead of myself here, I need to explain a couple things first. For those of you who don't know, I mainly do modular modeling with T-Trak. I recently adopted 3 N-Trak modules from my club and I am going to get those back up and running for shows. I have discovered some limitations to the current command station owned by one of my club members that is used for our N-Trak layout and I want to correct these, and give my club a secondary setup. My current command station setup is also limited in it's abilities and I am also going to try and correct this with the new system. So this will be version 3, and I believe this will be the best of all worlds. Again a little history, the version one was a wooden case with a Raspberry Pi, a laptop screen and the command station built in to one Steampunkesque case. It was able to run DC on both the Red and Yellow lines, with 4 outputs (2 red 2 yellow) so we could run districts or 2 individual layouts if desired. This worked well but the Pi even set up like a Windows computer confused some of my club members and everyone was afraid to use it. There were a couple other issues as well but that was more Pi v3, and a program track that was too short with no test ability than anything else. My next iteration, which is my current one, is made out of a Dewalt Tough Box V2 and works quite well. The computer this time is a laptop I plug into the side, a separate test track that doubles as a program track, again the same 4 output configuration, but only the red line can go DC. When I introduced my first command station I was told that no one will want to run DC. Well after I brought a couple trains to shows that I have no intention of ever converting to DCC and seeing how well they ran, and how the public like them (Hello Kitty Shinkansen for the win!) other club members started getting interested in running DC. Building a module that will allow DC trains to be parked so you don't have to remove them for the next user helps too! But my new command station isn't completely up to the task I wanted it for, and it is 100% not able to run the N-Trak layout. I am not going disassemble the current command, as there may be times when I will be using both of my stations at the same show. If you have read this far, thank you. I know this is long, but I felt it necessary to explain why I am doing a 3rd box. This 3rd box will mainly be used with N-Trak and will have the ability to run the T-Trak layout as well. It will be made out of wood as the DeWalt box had too many limitation for my end goals. There will be no switches, plugs or controls of any kind that can be damaged from the exterior. All ports will be hidden behind small doors to prevent damage. There will be a computer interface for JMRI. and I am going to find a way to have a WiFi server set up through JMRI via a Pi or something. It will be automatic on system power up. I am going to use a Digitrax DCS210+ for the command station. Power Management will be from a PM42, but set up in a unique configuration (more on that later) and all 4 tracks are going to be DC selectable with a rotary switch. Here is where the catch comes in and why I put the DC in the first paragraph in quotes. For this command station the DC will be provided by a DCC decoder. I tried to find modern DC radio setups but I wasn't able to locate any that were reasonably priced. The Aristocraft setups, if you can still find them, are going for something way out of my budget for 4 total. Homebrew is an option but I wanted something guaranteed to be reliable. I could have just went with stationary throttles plugged into the command station but I wanted to be able to interact with the show goers while operating trains, and let well behaved kids run the train for a little while. So to solve this problem I just stuck with DCC as the solution! I am going to use a G scale 5 amp DCC decoder to power the track while in DC mode. This will allow a phone, or regular throttle to be used even with a DC only train on the rails. Below is a pic of the decoder I am going to be using. Stay tuned here soon for the build, and prototyping of the setup, as I now have enough parts to start putting my theory into practice. The Decoder to run DC
My NTRAK club, Capital PenNScalers, has been using those G scale decoders in our power box for several years.
I plan on using a blunami decoder to operated the other cab on my DC layout. Looking forward to seeing your results.
Nice work Massey . I'll be following along. I wouldn't recommend it for what you are doing with this project but thought I'd mention this option for others that might want to run DC locos on their DCC layout. It is in its infancy but progressing and you do need to wire the layout into blocks. You can build the DCC-EX command station that has its on Wifi for under $75 and don't need computer or electronic skills for that. Using this system run your DC and DCC locos with a phone throttle or a commercial wireless WiTrottle throttle. With a phone throttle you can connect straight to the command stations WiFi. If you use a commercial throttle that can connect using JMRI's WiThrottle you are going to also have JMRI running. You change the blocks between DC or DCC with your throttle and can also run the DC and DCC engine at the same time with the same throttle with a spit screen on the throttle. This is not a plug and play setup at the moment but I know that some of you on here that like electronics can pull it off. Here is a video showing some of the capabilities of it ...... .... and a link to more info ( HERE ). I'll be hopefully getting to the point where I can use this on my larger layout. I have a large yard area planned and I'd like to be able to run my DC and DCC locos in that area. Sumner
Yesterday I worked on getting my workbench cleaned off so I can start working on this project a little more than just in theory. I have collected all the parts for one leg of the system, ordered 2 more decoders (still need one more) and everything is going as planned. Below is the schematic I have drawn up to manipulate the relays and direct the DCC and DC to the various lines. There will be 4 switches that will be for each of the 4 lines, which will be fed from 5 different sources, all routed out of one relay board. The NC lines will be for DCC, the NO lines will be for each of the DC lines going out to the rails. Thinking about it now, I may have to daisy chain the outputs... hmm... I guess that's why I am prototyping it before building the actual article. Here is a quick schematic of my plans. This is fluid, it may change at any time.
I do like the decoder to DC method. In fact, I've been considering doing that for a small loop to run some of my DC only trains on. Just FYI, however, Kato has a DC controller that you control with Bluetooth from a phone or tablet. Usually runs about $100 + power supply, and also interfaces with the Kato Sound Box for those inclined to use it. https://katousa.com/n-unitrack-smartcon/ https://www.amazon.com/Kato-Controller-included-019-Railway-Supplies/dp/B07BZL5WXB
Well this sucks... Forget the schematic above. I will not be able to use it. Why? Well let me explain. If you notice all 4 sets are the same, and that is on purpose for each of the 4 lines used in N-Trak. So that being said we only need to talk about one of the 4 lines, because this problem will effect them all the same. I have the DCC inputs going to each of the NC (Normally Closed) section of the relay. That mean unless the relay is energized the DCC signal will pass through it. Each of the 4 outputs (Relay center pins) will always pass the DCC signal through, even when one of the DC inputs are selected. This is bad news for everything, and will not work. So now what? Now I need to add a 5th relay board to give DCC outputs to the selected tracks, or I need to provide a DC/DCC switch to cut the DCC out to the track when DC is selected. I want this to be user friendly so I think the 5th board will accomplish this better than an additional switch. This way the DC inputs will be the only input to the relay, and the NC pins will be not used, and the 5th board will have all 4 relays with the same DCC input and the only change will be they turn off when a DC line is selected. One knob with LEDs indicating which mode each line is operating in will be the solution. I am also thinking that I could with three 7 segment LED units for each line, have it post the decoder's address or say DCC as per the selection... I really need to stop thinking about doing things like this, I have the skills to make the board, and wire the Arduino to it to make it happen, and maybe even... ok that's enough!! I will make a new schematic here soon, one with the 5th board.
The Kato unit does look interesting if I could find a way to control it without my cell phone. And if I can afford it.
I think the Kato option is neat, however you still have to swap modules if you want different sounds. For me, the blunami is a great option with under layout sound since you can change sound settings on the app.
You can daisy chain them and won't need the 5th relay. Using your previous schematic and going from top to bottom with the first group of relays: Relay 1 selects DCC or Red and feeds relay 2. Relay 2 selects relay 1 output (DCC or Red) or Yellow and feeds relay 3. Relay 3 selects relay 2 output (DCC or Red or Yellow) or Blue and feeds relay 4. Relay 4 selects relay 3 output (DCC or Red or Yellow or Blue) or Green and feeds track.
Do you not like the form factor or just don't want to use the same device that you use for calls? You could get a cheap prepaid phone and just not activate it (I did that to have a phone to use with JMRI and my RollBy speedometer and paid less than $30 for it). You can also get cheap tablets for as low as $40.
I forgot to mention the control circuitry would have to be different, but it could still be done with the rotary switch if you used diodes to direct the switch outputs.
I thought of doing just what you suggested, but I would still need several relay boards to get all the throttles working together, so imma stick to the KISS principle and run with 5 boards. I have 5 boards so it isn’t an issue. The boards will be wired similarly to what is above as far as the DC side of the house goes and the 5th pin on the switch’s upper level will trigger the 5th board to output DCC to each of the 4 lines, when the need for a DC line is selected, the corresponding relay on the 5th card will close and terminate the DCC connection while also closing a relay on the throttle’s board feeding one of the 4 available DC throttles to the line the switch is for. This keeps things simple, and should work fine. I will prolly use a track status indicator from RPC electronics, or make a similar device myself to detect the loss of the DCC signal, and to also indicate if the train is going forward or reverse.
Sort of sounds good. But how do I down load any needed program or load into it? I've never had one before and the local sales place won't help. After all even 73 year old's know all about such things. Along with Windows 10+. I don't wish to interrupt my specialty Smart Alex phone. It may call Emergency again.
IKR !! My daughter in law has hundreds of apps on her phone. I asked her how she ever finds anything. She said "Simple...swipe left 3 screens then up 4 screens and then right 5 screens down 2...and right 1 screen."
Even if a smart phone is not activated with a voice/data plan, you can still connect it to your WiFi. That gives you access to the internet, and you can install & use apps on it. Basically, you would be able to do anything but voice calls and text msgs.
