Hiya all.... Just a quick question. I have come across a source of 'cheap' Proto 2000 Switchers. What are these like for looooooow speed work (ie scale walking pace) in an inglenook layout? I'm talking about the SW8 and S3 loco's, specifically. [ 18. July 2004, 21:56: Message edited by: disisme ]
I may have missed something- But I cannot recall hearing or reading any significant complaints about these LL switchers. Boxcab E50
exxxxcellent. They sure look nice, and are pretty cheap (BIG LHS in melbourne having a sale on them). The SW8 is actually the 600/900/1200 you talk about Andy, so thats a good enough recommendation for me )))))). They wont be pulling big trains anyway (longest is 5 cars on an Inglenook), but that slow speed stuff is critical. Would a single Kato be better than 2 Proto's?....hold on..make that 3 when you consider price ... LOL
The proto switchers are excellent, I have a couple from the first & second runs of the SW1200 a few years back. I would imagine the SW8 shares the same chassis. The only issues I've had is with the clearance under the gear covers on the trucks which is quite low above the rails, if you have switches with a pin in the centre from a turnout motor (like Peco) you need to make sure that the pin is flush and doesn't stick up above rail height. Provided you don't have anything that sticks up between the rails above rail height you should have no problems, they are great little engines. And if they are on sale, even better
You didn't say whether these would be run on DC or DCC. They run great on DC. And you can get them to run even slower with DCC. Best switchers out there.
DC is the go..its only an Inglenook (initially) puzzle that they will be used on (2 x 3 car sidings, 1 x 5 car siding, 3 car lead track). That doesnt mena, of course, that it wount be introduced to a larger layout later when DCC will be mandatory. I saw a review on one after posting this thread where they said they had an SW8 MU running on a layout and you couldnt tell it was moving unless you lined it up with a piece of landscape. THATS impressive. Great to hear they are held in such high esteem... "Gimme 6 bud" Oh...on the clearance front... I am using Atlas #6 switches (nice n wide for an inglenook) which are nice and clean. I will, however, also be using a Kadee delayed uncoupler. Will I have clearance issues with this?
Not as long as the Kadee's are the right height and the coupler pins aren't too low they will work as advertised. If you don't already have one, a Kadee coupler height gauge is a must. It's a good investment to flawless coupler operation. Get the bolster washers for adjusting the height too. Certain cars have certain Kadee's like AHM, IHC and Tyco require an over or under mounted coupler. THis is just the place where the shank is attached to the coupler head. The Kadee website and the Walthers catalog have conversion charts that give you a recommended coupler for the car your using. One tip I found that help with operation is before putting them on, put thim in a plastic medicine bottle that has grahite powder in it. Drop in the couplers and shake the bottle to get the graphite in some of the hard to reach places that move. Remove the coupler, shake it off and install it. The moving parts have a fine coating of graphite on them the help in operation.
I'd get one and try it out, you can work on any issues if you need to, (maybe lower a Kadee magnet or grade crossing slightly) but it sounds like you may have no problems. The only way to know for sure is try it. And they do run excellently.
Great Yes, I orderd the SW8 and S3, a height guage, the delayed uncoupler and several boxes of kadee couplers for my rolling stock. The rolling stock has 'Kadee copy' couplers, but they are cheap crud and vary all over the place, so I'll replace the lot with 'the real thing'. All for under $200 (Aus..bout $150USD). ))))))
These have a very good motor - better than those in the E's & SD'9. Hard to stall w/a fair amt of finger pressure even at a low voltage - lot's of torque. Sized about 18 x 33 mm. Top speed w/the 14 -1 gearing at 12v on dc is about 65 smph. W/o the bd., it starts around 1.5 v. w/a variac throttle. W/the bd. starting voltage is the usual 3.5 - 4 v.
Don, whats a bd? Ahh, an 0-8-0 would be a trifle large for my inglenook, unfortuantely. I LOVE steam, but its just not gonna happen in HO scale for me.
Next to my favorite and well broken in Athearn SW1500 I LOVE those P2K switchers.As far as that goes I love the P2K units for their slow speeds.
Don, whats a bd? Ahh, an 0-8-0 would be a trifle large for my inglenook, unfortuantely. I LOVE steam, but its just not gonna happen in HO scale for me. </font>[/QUOTE]I have to chime in that the 080 is truly wonderful. Miles above most other out of the box steam engines. The chain detail alone convinced me to buy, but the slow speeds cemented the deal for me. So I suspect after you get the diesel switchers you'll be lured by the steam switchers. This truly is an evil hobby.... BuuuaaaHAAAaa haaaaa!!! (Diabolical luaghter)
The circuit board mtd. on top of the motor. I run on DC w/the variac throttle so I end up pulling them out as I prefer the lower starting voltage. Don
