Should YOU buy a brass locomotive?

I submit my case for Brass locomotives over here, read and tell me what you think:
http://modelrailroading.wordpress.com/2009/04/16/should-you-buy-a-brass-locomotive/

 

I pretty much agree with your conclusions:

For this reason I will not be buying any brass.

 

I disagree with your first premise as stated in your "You shouldn't..." part. I am the one who determines what is a waste of my money. No one else can or should. In that case, if I want to spend $3K on a brass locomotive which is no closer in fidelity to its prototype than is the plastic $300 model next to it, it is entirely in my purview to do so. I can be reasonably assured that it will hold its value more than the plastic counterpart, that it is heavier and will be sure to pull more once it is adjusted and finely tuned, and that its higher appeal or value to me will likely result in more pleasure during its use.

 

COverton, I like your point of view, and I agree with your free market wisdom in addition to your more practical and mechanical facts. The whole "value" of brass locomotives is something I glazed over in the article, it was more from a POV of someone who is willing to operate their models (like you) rather then keep them sealed in a glass display case.

 

Cotton Belt, you've overlooked several important factors that weigh heavily in regard to the reasons people purchase brass models.

Firstly, the great majority of brass models are purchased by collectors, not people intent with operating them on layouts. I'd have to say that probably no more than 20% of all the brass ever made has actually ever turned a wheel, beyond an initial test run. Brass collecting is a totally separate aspect of the hobby and has more in common with art collecting than running trains on a layout. This has always been so and with today's often astronomical prices for new brass, probably truer now than at any time in the hobby's history.

When it comes to accuracy and high degrees of detail, in spite of what some say, even the best of today's plastic steamers can't hold a candle to the detail present on a modern brass locomotive. Those that claim otherwise simply have never owned a quality brass model, or carefully examined one close up. Just as you are seeing in increasingly regularity, attempts at making plastic models equivalent to brass in detail are driving the price of new plastic engines toward that charged for brass. When - and if - they ever do become equals, so will their pricing.

There is currently a faction of modelers with specific era/RR/location layouts that wish various examples of their motive power to match specific RR prototypes in absolute perfection. Likewise, this isn't the 1950's-1970's, where most hobbyists were highly accomplished hobby craftsmen and were capable to modifying their equipment to match specific engines. Many guys in the hobby today have trouble changing out couplers, especially since the rise of RTR. While runs of today's brass locomotives are often done broken down into several subclasses, or even represent individual engines, this is not and never will be the case with mass produced plastic models. Little bits an pieces of add-on detail may be included with some plastic models but that does not insure the buyer has the capability of installing them correctly.

These and other factors need to be considered when one takes the position of offering advice on whether or not others should be purchasing brass or plastic models.

NYW&B

 

I agree with that. I compare the Proto 1000 C-Liner I bought earlier this year to the 35-year-old Model Power sharknose, and it's day and night. The paint and lettering are crisp and sharp, and the details are a lot finer.

As much as I adore my old shark for sentimental reasons, that C-Liner looks a lot better. The shark is only equal in smooth running.

 

If you're buying brass, you're not doing it for ANY reason other then the fact that you like cold hard metal.

They are both Toy trains. No better, no worse. But I do feel something when I hold a brass locomotive...perhaps the same thing I feel when i hold a spectrum 4-4-0

 

Who is "Cotton Belt?" Is that "Flash Blackman?"

 

We have to face the fact that a heavy engine with equalized or sprung driving wheels is always going to pull more rolling weight than a plastic engine of the same type. There just is not enough room to add the weight to a plastic engine. That should only apply to those who wish to 'run' his engine. I have listened to a guy at a club comment about how much better the brass models are, while he was pointing to a plastic engine on display. It had been super detailed very well. I don't think we should advise someone to spend his money unless he asks us to, and that is what I enjoyed from the NYW&B's article. He made it clear to me that a brass or custom made metal engine would be great as an investment, but it was my choice. I like that attitude, because some of the guys often feel 'put down' if they can't feed their families and afford a fancy brass engine at the same time. If you get what I'm getting at here, then you aren't paying attention.

 

Yes, it did. I didn't think I had recommended anything to anyone. :confused3:

Flash "Cotton Belt" Blackman

 

Sorry, Flash. I only looked quickly through the thread and since I read Mileswest's thoughts, quoted in your post, I replied to that rather than correctly citing the original poster. My mistake.

NYW&B

 

I picked up two off of ebay just because I could. Both HO scale.





$200.00 USD each. Good runners.

lexon

 

I have a few brass steamers because I model the NP and you can't find a T-1 Prairie or S4 Ten Wheeler in plastic. Nor can you find a 4-8-4 Northern like the Timken 2626 in plastic. If I could, I certainly would. It's the only way I can model a typical scene. I have the first two running already and no. 2626 will join them soon as well as an L-9 or L10 0-6-0 switcher.