Hello fellow modelers, I'm new to the hobby and I've tried my hand at building a couple small layouts 4x8 and 8x12 l shaped, and did ok with them, now I 'm wanting to go bigger and have a couple of dilemmas to overcome. First of all, I was using code 100 for my tracks and switches and although it looked good to me it didn't have the right look to me . This is where I could use some guidance from all of you guys and girls if any. I'm trying to decide whether or not to go back to code 100 or to switch to code 83 for track and switches. currently the room size is 17' x 15'. I have some 4 axel locos and a couple of 6 axels, and two 4x8x2 steam locos. I'm using Anyrail as my design software and all my curves are a min 28 to 30 " radius where they fit. This new forever layout will be two levels with some elevation changes on both decks and a 5 lap helix to travers. max incline is 2.1%on the helix. I have a Digitrax system and will have 4 BDL 168's 2 PM 42's and a SEC 8 for controlling my signals. Please tell me what track and switch code your using and why you like them and any issues you've run into along the way. Your information will be greatly appreciated in helping me decide which rabbit hole to go down.
I'm an N scaler, so I can't reply directly, but previously (and on modules for the NTRAK club) I used code 80 . For the new layout I went to code 55. That's roughly equivalent to your code 83 to 100. I honestly couldn't tell all that much difference in rail height.......some but not a lot. I mainly made the switch because the code 55 came in wider radius curves ( although I used all flex track), and standard turnouts were #5, #7, and #10 vs #4 and #6 in code 80. Plus at the time code 80 didn't have Wyes or curved turnouts. Are you starting from scratch (did the last layout go in the dumpster) or do you have a lot of leftover code 100. Replacing a bunch of code 100 you already have can add considerable expense. I recycled my code 80 by using it for the hidden staging yard and the hidden ramp that leads down to it which total about 300 ft of track and a dozen turnouts. Using it that way only required a transition joint at the top of the ramp. Could you do something similar and use the code 100 in the Helix? In the end it's really your call.......if you think the code 83 looks better, then that's all that matters, and since you called this your "forever" layout you don't want your choice of track to come back to haunt you down the road.
Hello MRLdave, I appreciate the response from you. I have thought of doing this but when I was starting out, I did the eBay thing for getting the track i have and to say it was brand new would be a stretch. I have pulled all the track from the layout but I'm really leaning towards the code 83 rather than 100. With that said I'll probably be listing it on Ebay and try to recoup some of the money I spend for the brand new code 83, which makes sense to me. I too have found that there are more choices of turnout size from one code of track to the others which I'm really liking, this way I'm not confined to only having a few choices. Again thanks for the response. Greg
What kind of roadbed do you plan on using? I have over a 100' of HO track on a 12X8 'L" and, for budget reasons, went with "ebay brass" (read that as used, code 100) but found, if a pauper like me and also planning to ballast, that the HO WS foam is OVERKILL thus switched to "N' scale foam bed instead which looks perfect. Do some 'testing'? Due to necessity, my six-axle diesels can handle 18radius quite 'ok' . . Cheers! Great Layout Design!
Thank you sir for the response. Its much appreciated. I haven't thought about road bed as of yet but its interesting that you are using N scale, think i'll have to do some testing with it.
Here's a pic of my N-scale road bed under HO track & while the tie-ends overhang the beveled edges it's 2mm lower than the 'ole stuff and, with ballast added, who's gonna notice? Spoiler: DC Concepts Grey in N Whatever you decide HAVE FUN! (lol but don't miss those calls for "dinner dear") (ps: found a use for the black "HO foam" which, having split it in half, will glue as a high-speed burm around the curves of our new HO slot-car track)
