Well, finally got the benchwork all complete, just trying to transfer the track plan to it somehow. Whats the best way to go about doing this? Just re-drawing it all? And for applying cork roadbed, whats the best adhesive to use? Carpenter's glue? or just plain white glue? Will post updates on this railroad to this thread as it progresses and status can be seen on my website too...
Carpenter's glue seems to hold better IMHO - that's what I used - very happy with its sticking power. Re: trackplan - if it's a solid plan, it's easiest to just lay the track/cork out and see how it looks. Then when you're happy, trace the outlines in place.
White glue secured with push pins every inch or so while drying. It is not permanent and can be lifted up with water, either before or after ballasting.
I would suggest you consider one thing before transferring track plans and laying out the cork. If you are setting up your layout in an area that is subject to temp/humidity changes (like a damp basement), seal all your bench work with a coat of latex primer. Seems like a lot of extra work, but I did it and I have had zero issues with expansion. I've heard this can reap havoc on trackwork.
nemo 22, Transferring a scale drawing to the full-size benchwork isn't too difficult. Draw a scale grid on your plan, and a full-size grid on your layout. Then transfer points from one to the other. On my layout I used a yardstick as a compass--drilled a hole for a pencil, then drilled various small holes for different radii, and used nails as a pivot point. If the center of the curve was off the benchwork, I used an old stepladder. Depending on the complexity of your plan, you'll find that track pretty much follows its own route, so you'll probably be making adjustments.
I also have a yardstick such as Pete has described. And must agree with his notation that track could need to adjustment. It may only be slight. But I've found that what you've carefully drawn on paper, when actually being built, might need a slight nudge or tweak, here and there. Boxcab E50
On my newest layout, I went to considerable lengths to make sure I wasn't cheating on things like yard ladders. I scanned my switches to make sure I wasn't cheating on lengths or angles, and called the manufacturer, Atlas, to confirm angles of divergence. I transferred the data into a sophisticated Computer-Aided-Design program, and made sure all the data points matched exactly. Did it result in an accurate layout according to the drawing? Not in the least! Until you lay track, you never know what's going to happen.
That's Right Pete I've done it and I concur with the yardstick - it will give you a good feel for the curves. Take an old yardstick - drill holes in 1 inch increments starting at around 17" and every inch upwards. These holes should fit a regular pencil point. After you draw your curve, you can even put your car on the line to get an idea of the overhang possibilities of your engines and consists (Use the longest of each) and see where you can get the best realistic look. Don't forget your curve transitions for smooth performance from curve to straight run As for the switches - just lay them down and mark the positions- I was where you are a mere 8 months ago - and it gets even better as you go along.
Thanks for the info everyone, gonna get started on drawing the plan on the plywood, and order the track (using nothin but flex and switches).. Hopefully this weekend I can start on the roadbed will update here as I go..
Oh, ya, one more question, about foam board subroadbed. I had some down, but it was so uneven at the joints and at various other spots. Used a 2' x 8' sheet, and cut it into 3 pieces to fasten to the board with adhesive (not liquid nails, HD doesn't have that here). Is there any trick to getting this stuff nice and even through-out? There's 2 sections where I'd like to dig down to put a river and a pond, but am wondering if I should just skip that this time around, and do that for the next layout but with open grid or cookie cutter style bench.
Got the layout transferred over to the plywood, fullsize printout + carbon paper worked well. Gives a good guide to work with. Now its time to get the track. I want to use caboose industries throw stands, and eventually tortoise switch machines. Was originally going to use the atlas custom turnouts, but if the LHS has enough stock, I was debating about the standard switches (2702/2703) and just remove the side switching mechanism.
Well, slowly but surely the cork is going down, that was taken last night, the outer track + sidings is all done as of now just letting it dry for a bit before tackling the inner parts. So far its lookin good
