And how might one go about figuring out if a loco is DCC compatible when it's not stated on the box? Thank you
Take it out of the box. Open up the loco and take a look. Measure the current at 12 VDC. Look at what kind of space is available. Know the dimensions of the decoder. Rich
Do what Rich said but also look for an 8 pin or 9 pin plug. If there's one there then it's DCC ready or "Plug & Play". If not then you'll have to hard wire one to your loco. Take a look here to see what's involved w/ both kinds: http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/HO_Search/search.html Not saying to buy TCS, just use their examples to see what's involved installing both types.
For N scale locos, you can look it up on Spookshow's Encyclopedia site... he gives each one a grade in terms of its DCC friendly-ness, as well as some comments in the text. Fundamentally, for any loco of any scale to be DCC compatible, there must be: (A) Room for the decoder inside the shell (B) A means of isolating the motor brushes from the track power feed (C) Power requirements amenable to being driven by a decoder. How easy it is to accomplish the first two tasks on any given loco design varies widely, from "drop in" or "plug in" designs like the FVM GEVOs all the way down to having to custom-mill the frame for a hard-wire install. The third task has more to do with the electronic design of the chosen decoder (and whether one exists that can power the motor), and could drive a motor change if you've got a really bad motor.
"(B) A means of isolating the motor brushes from the track power feed" Can you explain this? How does the motor get power if it's isolated?
The motor is powered from the decoder, and GE decoder gets its power and control signal from the track.
That sentence refers to what can be a world of pain On a DC loco one rail is connected to one motor brush, the other rail to the other brush. This means an electrical path is provided from the wheels on each side to the motor. For DCC the rails are connected to the input of the decoder and the output goes to the motor brushes - the decoder is 'between' the rails and brushes. So you need to be able to break into that circuit - ie. to isolate the motor brushes - in order to install a DCC decoder. Where the DC connections are by wires this is simple - cut the wire! (Even simpler are ones with a DCC socket as usually you just remove a jumper.) However, some older types, like Athearn Blue Box, or brass locos often use a 'mechanical' connection to the motor, or one side of it, and this can be, er, "challenging" to break into. Hence the warning you saw.
Take the Loco and set it on the track and listen/hear if it has a buzzing sound on a DCC wired layout. If it does its a DC loco. If it doesn't buzz program into the controller either the engine Number on the side of the cab or the default Number of 03. If it runs,--- its DCC If its a DC loco and you want it to run on a DCC layout you will have to set the command station for zero stretching in the options menu. Digitrax's has that capability I don't know about the other's as I run Digitrax.
If DCC ready is not printed on the box it's probably not ready for DCC. Manufacturers use that as a selling feature. DCC ready means that the motor brushes can be easily isolated from the rail pick ups. The method is up to the manufacturer. Could be as simple as a plug, replacement circuit board, etc. The only real way to check them is to pull the shell and use an ohmmeter to find out. Next best way would be to post the manufacturer and model here. Odds are that someone has experience with it and will be happy to pass the info on. Martin Myers
smile: For myself, DCC ready means that there is a decoder that is very easy to install, is probably defined and sold as made for the application. Examples are TCS/Digitrak decoders for popular engines. I can do these and I'm not bragging on my skills. cool: Others posts (thanks) have pretty much explained why, space, motor isolation and motor electric requirements. smile:Not DCC ready has various levels of difficulty, ranging from "I can do that," "I could try that," "I'll pay someone," "No way!" Googling up a set of instructions for your application will show the way. In my case, n-scale, Athearn original F59's are case 1 (done that) Atlas Classic RSD 4/5 is case 2 or 3 (for me) some Euro things from the '70's are case 4. baffled: Research your sources and give a try or ?, won't hurt to learn.
Hi, About the only manufacturers that prints DCC ready on the boxes in N scale is Atlas and Athearn just says DCC equipped or DC Version. Kato and Intermountain do not say one way or another. With the TCS CN and CN GP, along with the small wired decoders from Lenz, Digitrax, TCS and others, it is getting easier to do many DCC installs. But there is still the possibility that it may not be worth doing if said locomotive isn't running and pulling great with DC, DCC will not help that either. My rule is that if it is a great runner on DC, it get converted.
