I invert the box and let it fall onto a cushioned pad. If it won't fall out easily I pry it out, insert and all then separate loco from the insert. Putting it back into the box offers the same challenge. Ben
My understanding is that Kato will be coming with another 10-car Daylight set in May? Is that right? Will the cars all have different numbers?
Someone back on page 3 asked how a "Mars Light" worked. A true Mars light, that is one manufactured by the Mars Signal Light Company, has a horizontal figure eight pattern to the light beam. This is acomplished on the later models, ones that use sealed beam lamps in them, by a single motor thru a gear box that has two individual cams on it. Each drives a reach rod to move the light thru the pattern. Depending on adjustment of cams and age, depends on how well the beam still makes the proper figure 8 pattern. From a past disscussion on another forum with Doyle M, who was very involved with the Daylight in the hey days of mainline passenger excursions, the current Mars light set up in the 4449 is a big of a engineering project. It uses a 12v dc mechnisim from a fire truck, with a double sealed beam headlight plate that uses 2 12vt automotive seal beam halogen lamps. They have one of the turbo generators tapped for 12vt dc to power the Mars. If I remember right, the original 36v drive system had issues and is no longer made, but you can still get the 12v ones for fire trucks new, so they adapted it to the 4449, thus having spare parts avaiblity in the near future for the light. The other big signal light company was Pyle National, and thier Gyralight, it had a mostly circular pattern using a single motor and cam to move the light on a gimble plate. I used to have a SP single beam Gyralight. Cheers Mike
I can appreciate threads like this. The pictures shared here, to illustrate the problems identified, are well done. This thread is certainly worth the read. Motor chatter: After reading most of the threads here and elsewhere the problems identified appear to be the result of damage in shipping as opposed to something Kato did wrong. My Kato GS4 runs sweet. The only problems being a traction tire that broke loose when I put "Her" on the track for the first time. I pulled on the locomotive and the tire broke loose. And...As reported by others the tender derailed when in a reverse move. Both are relatively easy fixes. As far as DCC, I can't speak to that as I'm still operating with DC. But, others have spoken and there advice is worth the read. Have fun!
Maybe the troublesome GS-4's were in that same shipping container as all those smashed Canon cameras in another thread. I think you're right about the GS-4's though. I ran mine through some more paces the other night, even running it backwards over switches and the like, and the only time the pilot truck popped off the track was when I ran it forward against the points by accident. The thing is definitely pickier than, say, an Atlas SD-9 (which I used for comparison) about faulty track, but everywhere that I saw the GS-4 pitch or roll or pop up I went and checked the track and saw some flaw in the laying (it was usually on joiners between modules) of the track or the track itself that was the culprit. I know this isn't helping out anyone who is having problems.
SteamDonkey74 and all tuned in, About the Container with the Canon Cameras and possibly the GS4's. You got to wonder. Grin! My ConCor GS4 does a better job of picking out all the bad spots on my railroad. From the get go, I would take the lady out and let her point out the flaws. That's what led me to file down the points on the #6 Kato switches. I also found other flaws, in the switch, with the rail on the diverging side of the switch. During the heat of the summer the rail pulls in toward the frog. A bead of gap filling CYA did the job. Also, she picks the soldered railjoiners, the overflow on the inside of the joiner, needed to be filed down. For now, my Kato "Daylighter" runs super, no complaints. I'm still wearing that silly grin that I picked up at the hobby shop at the time I purchased the Daylighter. Time out here ... to run the Daylights, Larks and SJDS. More news later. .
I picked mine up last week, and it is gorgeous and runs great. I am also experiencing uncouplings of the cars (mostly the last car of the 10 car consist) going downgrade. Anyone have any fixes for this?
Just a quick fix! Regarding fixes for uncoupling on the downhill run. I shaved off the nubins so the Kato knuckle couplers will interact with MT or other types. I then added two Rivarossi, smooth side coaches to the consist, with Unimate couplers. I then placed them in between the cars that kept breaking loose...problem appears to be solved. And I don't know why! I suspect the Unimate couplers are some what thicker and take up the slack that is in the Kato couplers. The movable part appears to open and the knuckle part of the coupler slides free. You can glue the movable parts of the couplers together or replace them with a Unimate. Either way you loose the ability to bump and pull. Requiring you to hand lift the cars so they will couple. Not the most satisfactory resolution. I plan on replacing the Kato knuckle couplers with Micro Trains...at some point in the future. Have fun!
Trying to find out if Kato is bringing another 10-car set in May/June. Different numbers, etc. I know about the second numbered loco. What are you all hearing about a second numbered 10-car set? Thanks!
I got mine today. The GS4 runs fantastic no problems what so ever with the locomotive. I do have a problem with the two car articulating section as Calzephyr experienced. Just read his report of the fix so I wll take a look and see if that solves my problem. No I am impressed ---> fixed the articulating problem as described by Calzepher, the daylight cars pulled by a PA1 A and B unit have been running around for a good few laps of the layout, with no derails, both on flat and 2% grades up and down. Put the GS4 away until Kato solves the problem with DCC.
DCC Fix! There is a fix for the DCC. You need to isolate the motor from the frame using Kapton Tape and then install the decoder of your choice. Although, there is room in the body/boiler shell of the GS4 to install the decoder... I prefer to install the decoder and sound unit in the tender. Thus adding a little needed weight to said tender (derailing in reverse moves). I might mention...there is a problem with the drivers shorting out and that needs to be addressed as well. I think this is what all the talk is about, regarding milling the chassis. All in all, I wouldn't put away any GS4. It's no good to anyone, if it's sitting on a shelf or in a box. It's not likely Kato will actually resolve this problem for us. I'm usually the last one told and the first one chewed...so we shall see. Grin! A friend of mine and yours gave us a way to solve the "DCC" problem. You can go back to another thread where I share the do it yourself "How to". If only I could remember the thread I posted this to. Oh well. Nobody seemed to pay much attention to it the first time..anywho. You can give it a search...it's worth a read. Have fun!
Rick, I think this is the thread you were thinking about KATO GS-4 Tsunami install Step by step! - TrainBoard.com
Rick, Bob think I found the thread ---> Post 170 on this page is that the one. If so Rick is your friend saying that the problem is not that the frame needs to be milled that it is the motor wipers? Will kapton tape solve the problem? Here is the thread The GS-4 Daylight Face-off... ConCor vrs Kato - Page 5 - TrainBoard.com
Owen, this by DSZ&N may be the ultimate solution if you, or someone you know has the equipment and the know-how. http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?t=96933 I bit the bullet and had a Tsunami installed by TopHobby. Mailed it last Wednesday and received it yesterday. Very professional job and the installer even programmed three pages of CV's. I've fine tuned some but mainly to lower the volumes. http://www.tophobbytrains.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3155 Ben
GS-4 Daylight Face Off... The post "GS-4 Daylight Face Off" is where a number of problems are identified and possible reslutions provided. On page #17, thread #170 I share a "News Flash" from Bob PSG. You can go back and give it a read. Also, on the Atlas board you can find where Hosea, Bob, TonyH and others teamed up to identifiy and resolve specific issues with pictures included. Also, look for TonyH's review of the Kato SP GS4 in a N-Track magazine. Have fun. .
Not Bad At All, Thank you, No... but then yes..sort of. I'm glad you shared this here because, it does talk about ways to install the Tsunami sound unit. Do it, go with it and run with it. I just hope the sound is authentic to the GS4. Have fun.
No, yes and maybe. Thanks for bring the "...Face Off..." post back here to our attention. Milling versus Kapton Tape: The answer to your first question is No and Yes. The Kapton tape would be a good temporary solution. Milling is the ultimate fix for the short that occurs when the drivers touch the chassis frame. Shipment Damage: During shipment the motor wipers may have been damaged. Reshaping the motors wipers and placing the motor back in place resolves the "Chatter" noise problem. Installing DCC requires you to isolate the motor and wipers from the chassis and the Kapton tape is a simple solution to that problem. Solder a few wires and run them back to the tender and you are a few steps away from operations and making the pull. That's enough out of me for one day...don't you think? I heard that! LOL Have fun.
Beings i only run DC and i had the first chance to run the GS4 the other day all i can say is WOW!!!!! It runs quiet and smooth. I just wish there was a way to add sound without the use of DCC. But with sound or without this is one awsome set. Kudos to Kato. Dave
Lost TT The Daylight saga continues. Popped my first traction tire yesterday. My fault most likely. Removing the pin to free the rods and replacing the tire proved to be no problem following Kato's instructions. Replacing the tiny pin was a problem. Twice I dropped the pin into the space between the spokes. The second time it wedged in so tightly that I had to remove the drivers to get it out. Finally got the pin replaced on the fifth try. Working in a box is recommended in case the pin scoots out of your tweezers. Kato anticipated this by warning not to work in a carpeted area. I was surprised the TT is so thin and the depth of the groove on the driver is so shallow. I feel certain losing a tire will happen again and I'm not looking forward to it. Ben
