After getting all the neccary parts I started on NS 6920 (the veterans engine). The cab is 3D print from my own drawings.
It's a fairly straight forward build, this is actually my second SD60E. Building the extended vents behind the dynamic brakes is the most time consuming part but with sheet styrene it goes to getter pretty easy.
It's been awhile since I posted in this thread. Just too much going on to keep up sometimes, but today I have a few spare moments... yea!!! :lol: So, with that here's what I managed to finish this week: Some more stuff I've been working on this week and just finished up today. No I don't sleep... First up is a Kato/Kaslo Shops SD40-2F or Red Barn as they are lovingly referred to as. Most of the details are included in the kit and it is very easy to assemble. I used True Line Trains CP Action Red for the paint and decals from Microscale. FINALLY, it only took a year for me to get off my 4th point of contact and do this hopper. Still want to add the road number, so need to work on that in the next few days. I'm going to knock out the ex-Chessie Hopper next, which is also an ICHABAD special. Finally, a few Willmodels resin vehicles that I painted. Cheers, Brian
I had started NS 6900 but pushed it on a back burner because I wasn't satisfied with my scratch-built cab... I have been meaning to pickup a Crescent cab and finish it up. I can't wait to see yours done!!! Right now I am working on a Loksound decoder install into my Operation Lifesaver NS 9256. I got the enclosure built, installed the speaker, milled the frame, and wired most of the decoder. I got it to fire up and it sounds great! I am currently working on wiring up the LED's and getting everything tucked away. I will have pics and a video shortly.
Thanks for the nice props guys. The rust is all about water soluble oil paints. Tank Car process: Basic fade airbrushed with very diluted white acrylic, then a light colored layer of rust background airbrushed on the top where I want the rust to go. DC - let dry then I apply burnt umber and raw sienna oils dabbed on with a small foam pad. I use the foam from cheap disposable foam paint brushes. Streaking done with the same oils and 50% alcohol to bleach the paint even further on this car, using a wider flat brush and pulling down from top to bottom.Apply in light coats and layer in thin coats to "build" the desired effect. Use water to dilute instead if you don't want to get the car too frosty looking. DC -let dry then I apply mixed (variety of browns) chalks to highlight the spills and thinner streaks down along the tank seams. Finally Microscale placards followed with light dusting of DC- let dry Hopper pretty much the same except more use of chalks and cheap acrylic craft paints for the background layers and streaks. On the white streaks I used white chalks applied with a wet brush. The effect may look too strong but the dullcote mellows and blends it into the background finish. Notes: DC= Testors Dullcote A lacquer and as such, will melt into itself with each successive coat. Creates a nice effect and blends everything together. Dab the oil paints onto an index card "pallet" to absorb the excess oil I use an airbrush only for the initial fade and initial rust coat. I don't use an airbrush to "dust" the cars. That whole technique is outdated and unrealistic in my humble opinion. Hope this makes some sense!
That is a super description and love the weathering! PS could you sign your posts with some name that we could refer to you as? Just a suggestion. Thanks so much for the info and post. Mike
Nice quick write up. Thanks, but I do wonder why you state that the technique is outdated and unrealistic? What process do you use instead?
Sorry for the confusing and contradicting sounding statement. I use the layering process I just described, I was just referring to the decades old technique of just pointing an airbrush at your model and dusting this or that and calling it good. Craig
Perhaps better to say that the simple dusting is less effective? I've seen many write-ups stating that the best effects come from the kind of layering process you described so completely, and I for one hope to make use of some of what you presented.
Yes "less effective" one dimensional also is a good term. Here's some more cars I did a couple weeks ago. Same techniques I described. Exactrail PS-4427 Santa Fe 60ft Box:
