I made a battery powered caboose. I found that having to break the shell, ladders, etc. apart was no fun. Since then I use Richmond Controls track powered items. Just popping the shell off of a boxcar is much better, though. Not as invasive.
Yeah, I hated breaking it apart. I was scared to death. I think I'll just force myself to learn about other techniques and spend a little more. The major redeeming factor on my boxcar was that that was about a $6.00-$7.00 LED kit.
I've been weathering a bit... A Great Northern hopper that shows the damage a Pacific Northwestern lifestyle can do The ICG is suffering from "paint gone bad-itis" as well,,,,,, A Canadian National Pointe St. Charles van looks a bit dirty but still looks sharp guarding the end of a wayfright Meanwhile this wooden side CP Van shows no signs of stopping over fifty years after being built. Lots of weathering and detailing fun ! Puddy \
Puddington Wonderful weathering work! Amazing and realistic. I almost mistaken the last photo as real thing.
Well , was on my work bench for what seemed to be an eon but now finished Kato motors in all three of my Fox Valley Gp60M's. I may go into this swap on a thread if anyone is interested. Mike
Mike, I for one would be interested in such a thread. I have re-motored a few locos. My Intermountain SD40-2 was too slow, and I had brush issues on an Atlas SD60-M. I always like to see how others do this type stuff. Based on cursory review, it seems like most motors have similar footprints, so swaps should be "easy." Big challenge may be removing/replacing flywheels. Did you do this in the interest of consistent speed? Thanks!
Paul , my issue was not with the running and pulling but just the slow speed. To run with other locos I own my Digitrax throttle setting on them had to be 75 while all other equipment was running around 10. They ran smooth and well , just slow for me. It may be a while till I get to the thread. Thanks , Mike
I REALLY like this little building !!! I would "close down" the welding shop, swap places with the glass blocks and overhead door, and make it a shop for a local racing team. Thanks for the idea !!!
Someone probably already suggested it, but you might consider painting the inside of the car to hide the overflow light. Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk
Further progress this week toward completion of a batch of models currently underway. Rivet decals applied to the sides of cook diner car BCOL 6508: Assembly of main body parts for panel track car BCOL 6510: Next up for this car are all the detail parts, and the deck load. And, having completed the rivet decal marathon, I am now facing an even longer marathon - window glass. Four for cable car BCOL 6504, ten for tool wash car BCOL 6506, fifteen for cook diner car BCOL 6508, and (gulp) twenty-four for each of the three museum train coaches. Tim
Thank you Steve, and good question Mozarelli, to which the answer is "not this time". The sides are a laminate of .020" + .020" + .oo5" window frame so the window glass need to sit toward the outer edge of this. In retrospect, what I should have done was cut out the entire window strip from the inner side sheet to do as you suggest. This was my first passenger car build so lesson learned. As for the museum coaches, they are a resin kit and the windows on the 2200 series cars were flush with the outside, so they have to be cut out and sized individually to rest on the top and bottom ledges cast into the model. For my upcoming build of the business car for the museum train, I am trying to figure out how to facilitate an easier window glass fit, and it will very much dictate how I build the sides. Tim
