Next steps with Oko1-11 project: Upper front light and the number plate must be removed Bell and smal "chimney" is removed as well as plastic generator on the left side of the chimney. It will be finally replaced prototypically on the right side of the chimney. Excessive holes must be filled in:
Thanks for the seeds tip, Pawel. I've been looking for realistic "produce" for my city vendor scenes. Seeds are a great idea. I can even plant what I don't use. Jim
Next steps with the Oko1-11 project: Original paint was removed: The cab roof must be reworked: Back light supports: Back lights and roof installed: Additional 3D steam collector installed:
Painting with primer: First layer of green: Some work with masking tape and black layer: Decals designed by myself:
I almost finished when I noticed one missing element. Coal box was enlarged with some metal stripe. I made this as well: I tried to follow the prototype photo while weathering: My final Oko1-11:
Absolutely fantastic! not only did you get the look right but the weathering is very convincing. Nice!
To mask the green paint I used Tamiya masking tape. There were some small places in the corners difficult to mask. Those small places were painted by handbrush. Green was airbrushed. Black painting was done using Tamiya spray pain in the can.
It is time for some shounting diesel: SM30: http://www.daras.art.pl/sm30.html . Body shell is 3D print:
I made buffers using simple technique developed by one of my modelling friends. Pin's heads were grinded using Dremel. Red plastic tube is a piece of wire insulation. Buffers attached and somde more painting: There will be a break with body shell. It must wait for decals.
A friend of mine made T-scale model of EN57 commuter train and rescaled it into Z. There are some photos of prototypes: http://www.przedniaplatformatramwaju.pl/2014/02/historia-polskiej-komunikacji-pafawag.html Starting point:
Hi Pawel, Shell looks good! Are you going to use the Rokuhan shorty guts for propulsion? /Frank Verstuurd vanaf mijn ANE-LX1 met Tapatalk
That is one of three options. Chassis is designed for it. Second one is to use chassis from Rokuhan sets (KIHA) I also consider another Shorty based option using different approach to the chassis. I found it on e-bay: