Yeah I am laying down cork roadbed so the Atlas nails should work just fine. They did in the past anyway. If I remember correctly?
Back to the feeders issue, more is better, just be certain that the feeders always feed the same rail.Designate them 'left' and 'right' or 'black' and 'red' or whatever suits you. I do like to set up separate 'blocks' even if all are fed by the same power source. That way if problems do arise, they may be easier to isolate.
Alright I pretty much have the feeders and stuff figured out for DCC. Please don't blow anything up Now I need to know what kind of switches to buy for my few Remote switches I will have, one being and asymmetrical so when I throw a switch both remote turnouts will move. What switch DPDT, etc... and how you wire these up with DCC? I mean they need AC right? Thanks!
Not the quickest way to mark my terminal joiners but should work for me. Tried painters tape, it was a no go. Could mark with A and B , might do both to connect to terminal board. As long as it works? We will see. Hopefully no shorts Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well my very first permanent official ( unofficial years ago, blew a decoder ) wiring for DC/DCC and, and it is working on DC. DCC test to come tomorrow as it was a major pain for it to be only a 2' x 4' base. Live and learn they say, and this was definitely a teaching moment for me. I forgot to attach the 2' x 4' corkboard I am using as a base, and also the 2 pieces of 2' x 2' foamboard, so of course when I leaned it up to get underneath, most stuff started to slide off. But luckily I had attached enough roadbed and track with track nails it wasn't as bad as it could have been. Was still a pain though. Know better for the second 2' x 4' base Temporarily attached with tape till I can get small screws to secure to base. Not pretty but it works, and I'll clean it all up later! Thank goodness I painted the wires with red paint pen.
Well the DCC wiring was a success. Today I got the terminal secured properly and organized the wires a bit with tape, and drilled a hole for the leads to go to the DCC controller. I am very happy it worked properly. Thanks for everyone's help!
As you can see in the picture above with the 3 locomotives lined up, a piece of balsa wood being used as a wedge. I never thought about old roadbed from 10-15 years ago being a different height than the brand new roadbed I just bought by the exact same company. Live and learn always for me. Need to add it to my signature It's always something? Now who knows what kind of switch I need to replace the ones that come with the Atlas Remote Switches? You know the DPDT, or SPST type switches. To replace this one? And how do I wire it? I need two remote switches in the back of the layout and two in the front to be thrown at the same time. When I flip the switch the two in the back will switch at the same time with one switch. Same for the front two switches. I have two brand New ones for the front of the layout. have to try and find 2 working old remote switches I have see it they will work. If not I will buy two brand new ones.
Nice picture!! Did the the near loco stop because the engineer was worried that the switch had been thrown? Sumner
Another update! Tell me what you think? Won't prevent all accidents, but it is a start. Bungee cord also attached
I'm planning on doing similar to make my layout. Three folding tables. I've been considering attaching 1x2s with screws under the tables and then attach 4" wide pieces of hardboard for the side guards and to hold the foam base in place and keep trains off the floor. Shouldn't need any of my bungees but may use fender washers on top with bolts going down through wood blocks under table tops to hold the foam down. This should give an attachment place for a shelf for controls. Just have to get someone to go get the stuff. Rich
Let me know what you come up with to prevent it being knocked off the folding tables? My tracks are hugging the edges so I have to come up with some walls, of some sort to prevent a dive on the carpet I'm using cardboard and thin foam right now. Till I figure out a permanent solution.
As a matter of fact, one go around the track and indeed someone ( me ), had thrown that switch and it was about to do a Back To the Future launch. Caught it just in time. Switches not connected to anything is dangerous Once I figure it all out with the L being attached, think I might just REMOVE that switch and REPLACE it when the L ( other 2'x4' base ) is being used. It tends to freak me out Have another OPEN switch on the other end but it just uses the curve when L not in use, so really no issue.
I did mention the walls. All the way around. If I can get thicker foam board I will increase the height accordingly. There aren't mountains here but there are 'kettles and moraines' to contend with so that will be necessary at least in some places. Maybe some printed or painted scenery. I will be able to walk all the way around the layout and maybe even have narrow HO along three walls. I'm dreaming. Time will tell. Rich
http://1fatgmc.com/RailRoad/UP Canyon Division/page-10.html For my test track where I'm not concerned with appearance I ripped some plywood and ran it around the layout on 3 sides for protection. You could rip some thin paneling and do the same thing. Rip it wide enough to go above the layout for the protection you want and also low enough so that it goes past the bottom of the table tops. It will do what the 1 X 2's are doing now and capture the layout over the tables. You might find a piece of paneling that they have that is now out of style but will look fine to you at a reduced price. If you can't rip it the lumber yard can in just a few minutes. Sumner
Yeah still trying to figure it out. Need something removable so when I store the L, full length pieces covering the table top would not work for me. Already about my limit for lifting to store in attic when not in use. And I sit in a chair when operating my layout. Still working on the actual plan too for L. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Using a drill with a bit in it would remove the pieces within a minute I'll bet. I basically screw together anything I build with grabber screws including all of .... http://1fatgmc.com/Camper/Camper-Index.html ... this camper I recently built. I'm installing a furnace in it now and had to remove one of the seat areas. Had it all apart in a few minutes with the screw gun. Sumner
Well trip to the hobby shop today to get some Atlas Remote Machines to replace my over 20 + years ones. Mainly had ripped out the wires and lost them ages ago, and also are some of the very old ones too. These are the newer ones, how new I have no clue? Time to swap out some switch machines.