I was wondering on everyones opinon on kato's unitrack. I have been told by lots of people that its the best way to go for a layout. they say you don't have to fiddle with it and it is very reliable. I just didn't want it to be a sales pitch. The club I belong to is switching all over to kato track. thanks for the imput kenny.
Here's a good place to start for your basis http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?t=104223&highlight=kato+unitrak
yes very reliable. gets your track going so you can focus on scenery....unless you like track work =P
Hi Kenny - It depends on what is most important to you. On the plus side, Unitrack rates very high for reliability. If you want to minimize fiddling with trackwork, Unitrack is a great choice. On the minus side, Unitrack is considered by many to be less realistic looking than other options. In addition, the fact that Unitrack is a sectional track system means you have some limitations in designing your track plan. For example, you are limited to the curve radii that are part of Unitrack. For some modelers, these factors make Unitrack less appealing. That said, there are some fantastic Unitrack layouts out there that I think look terrific. Check out Powersteamguy1790's JJJ&E, a superb layout done entirely with Unitrack. - Jeff
We also have our TrainBoard Group for Unitrack Users: http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/group.php?groupid=50 Boxcab E50
No sales pitch... just my humble opinion... After several years of fiddling about with cork roadbead, laying track (sections or flex) then ballasting the right of way... I found many times the darned trains would derail because I simply was too inpatient to do a first class job laying down track 'the old-fashioned way'. So... at least with my particular fallability... the prospect of laying down a ready to go roadbed/track system was far more appealing. The big concerns with ANY of these roadbed/track systems is the amount of segment available, reliability of the connections and overall appearance. Let's start with appearance: There's no doubt that the plastic roadbed is NOT particularly realistic looking... and Kato's system has wider ties spacing which looks less prototypical as well. There are ways to disguise the 'plastic look' with paint washes, chalks and some light ballasting... but no real way to get around the ties spacing. Many members of this Forum have done terrific jobs of disguising Unitrack and other systems and sometimes its difficult to tell its not cork roadbed with sectional track. These systems generally have Code 80 rail, though, Atlas' system [Tru-Track] has Code 65 rail and better tie spacing. The amount of track segment variety is very important because there is no 'flex-track' roadbed/track pieces. It's important to have good variety of curved segment and a variety of straight segment... not to mention... cross-overs and turn-outs. At the present time Kato Unitrack is the most diverse in segment availability. The reliability of the connection of the pieces is important for electrical continuity. These different roadbed/track systems have a proprietary connection which makes them unsuitable to be mixed together... essentially... when you chose a system... you're 'married' to it for better or worse.. Some members have managed to do some 'Frankenstein' connection jobs... but... really... you might as well do the cork/track/ballast route if your going to hack-up these different tracks systems. I chose Kato Unitrack several years ago because they were the best of the three available systems [Backmann, LifeLike & Kato]. If I were making the same decision today... I might have to consider the Atlas product which was introduced about 3 years ago. In the end... its all about your conviction to realism versus getting trains up-and-running. If you have the patience and skills to do really good trackwork... then the cork/track/ballast routine will give the most realistic results. If you're more into getting trains running quickly & reliably despite the less than perfect appearance... Unitrack or Atlas Tru-Track will be the way to go.
Unitrack is reliable. Its great if you don't have a permanent layout (i.e. you need to run trains on table top and then tear down the layout quickly). Its fantastic for teaching young ones train operations (I've been able to switch from a yard setting to double main loops, reversing loops, sidings, passing sidings, etc quickly and still have reliable track). It has nicely developed module system standard (T-trak). The #6 turnouts work great (I have no experience with the #4's). While the sectional nature of Unitrack does limit some layout possibilities, there are lots of different pieces to work with so you can come up with some good track plans. Its great for a more permanent layout if you do not care too much about looks. As mentioned above, it can be dressed up pretty well.
Thanks all for the responses I planed on using the kato track its easer and can made to look good as well with light balasting. plus you dont have to sodier the connections giving th movement for the table in heat or cold condtiions as I was told you can let it float or tack it down. I am a beginer and I wanted somthing easy and don't have to play around with mainly switches. I was told that kato's switches where weally good as I can see from the club layout they work really well. thanks kenny.
This is an important point, particularly if you're shooting for a prototypical look with wide radii. With the traditional, single-section track, there are curved track sections graduated with 1.5" track spacing up to 15"... but nothing after than until 19". (The new superelevated concrete tie track offers a 16.5" radius, but this isn't available in the older, single-section Unitrack.) I found that there's enough latitude in the Unijoiners to permit double-tracking the 19" curved sections, producing the equivalent of 18"R and 20"R, so long as you've plenty of the short straight sections on hand to fill in the resulting shortfalls. I've also found that the limited turnout options make it rather difficult to achieve one's track plans ambition in limited space. Sometimes, a curved turnout or wye can make TONS of difference in one's ability to cram needed track into limited space. This turned out to be the killer for me. With Atlas Code 55, I was able to solve all the problems that stumped me with Unitrack. Regarding Unitrack's aesthetics, take a look at the May, 2011 Model Railroader... featured is Mike Blumensaadt's beautiful N scale AT&SF layout, which uses Unitrack. Mike did a great job painting and ballasting the Unitrack, which looks pretty good, apart from the Code 80 rail and frequent rail joiners. The tie spacing issue can be plainly seen on p. 52, which shows a closeup of a siding, taken from the side. Unitrack's aesthetics really bug some people, but many Unitrack users are perfectly happy to put up with its visual shortcomings in order to obtain the reliable operation and easy installation. And however much people may complain about Unitrack's appearance, it's good enough for Model Railroader! Bryan
I didn't think it would look that bad. they are alittle more spaced out I didn't think they are that bad. a little balst they look good. I am using atlas flex track for sidings. kenny
Given that we don't know anything about your own layout design / plans etc it is difficult for me to advise either way. While Unitrack works for me there are a lot of limitations that can be very frustrating. In particular is the focus on the dual track main line and compatibility with it. This makes the use of #6 turnouts for cross overs between lines a non-option. There are no curved turnouts, wye turnouts, or single crossovers. It is highly unlikely these items will be forthcoming. If you choose to invest in Unitrack do so with open eyes. Note: I have been using Unitrak for years and have no regrets.
What I am building I don't need anything special mainly 6 in turnouts and a cpl of cross overs about it. I do have a wye turnout I on spot but thats peco. thanks kenny
The Tomix track has a lower ballast height. It is the same height as Atlas on cork. Kato height is like two layers of cork. Any of the code 80 rail systems join by just using standard Atlas joiners. You just have to remove the Unijoiner from the Kato track. Kato sells an adapter track with the Tomix that many use to join with other brands. Tomix Fine Track outsells Unitrack in Japan. They sell more because make many more typles of track, including curvred switches, wyes and a greater range of curves. They also make street tracks. If you're doing mail order anyway, the shipping from Japan may not be that much more. Just don't buy the track one piece at a time.
Here's a problem. Any type of sectional track has a high number of rail joiners. The current that flows through each rail joiner drops considerably. Soldering the rail joiners is one solution or soldering in wire drops to each piece or section. You won't find me adding wire drops to each piece of sectional track. Caution: When soldering any of the plastic based track, you can melt the plastic warping said track. I prefer a combination of Atlas Flex track on cork road bed and the Kato Unitrack Switches for mainline use. Downside is, you have to shim the cork road bed up to match the height of the Kato Switches. From the side door pullman: Note, I did not call them "Turnouts". A lot of model railroaders do that but... you won't find me making that mistake. Not on my model railroad which depicts American Railroading. See signature. Grin! You can't go wrong with Unitrack but it is noisy to run over. The first train across one of their switches, I thought every train car had derailed. Nope...not so.
Here is a how to on solderless connections for unitrak--I am not the author and have not tried it-yet http://sites.google.com/site/josephbales/unitrackfeedertutorial I would like someone with unitrak that has had it down for YEARS tell us if they had problems--also from anyone who tried the above method.
Soldering every joint is a myth perpetuated by the flextrack fiends. They need to do it in order to keep the flextrack from exploding when they use it on curves. Any of the problems that the ancient Arnold track had with joiners has been eliminated by the Unijoiner. A set of feeders every five or ten feet will do fine.
Interesting perspective. The Unitrack nickel silver rail will oxidize and once the track is firmly attached to the bench work does not allow enough flexing to maintain good connection between the rail and the Unijoiner. I found this out in less than six months and my layout is in a climate controlled smoke free room / home. An old adage that stands true even with Unitrack, is never trust a rail joiner. I like Unitrack for what it has allowed me to do and learn. There are tradeoffs to Unitrack and sectional track in general. My next layout will use code 55 rail. My locos and rolling stock have already been prepped for this eventuality. As my awareness of the prototype grows so has my desire to more closely emulate it. With that has come the realization I have outgrown Unitrack. Such is life. Oh, yes I solder feeders to every piece of track and will continue to do so with code 55 track. Jerry
