Interesting myth in itself. Soldering every joint causes a problem as it eliminates any space available for expansion or contraction. Which would help track pull out of line. In my forty years of N scaling, I've never seen flex track explode. That's a new one. I've used quite a bit of flex, and never have a problem. Even mixed in with my Unitrack. Boxcab E50
The problem with this method is it makes for an uneven rail joint becase the the wire is pinched between the bottom of the rail and the unijoiner. I've tried this and that is what I found. There has to be a better way.
I use this method. My unitrack layout has been permanently laid down since spring 2001. I have not had any porblems and it works fine today. I've also ballasted the sides and painted the rails. Here is an old picture.
Joe, I like the way you've ballasted and built up your track. I'm working on something similar. After using Atlas track with Peco switches in the 70's and 80's and handlaying code 40 in the 90's, I've used Unitrak for the past 8 years. I solder a drop to the underside of each section and have never regretted the switch. Code 55 and the handlaid code 40 looks great and operates well when clean. My modelling time is limited and I got tired of spending all of it cleaning track before I could run. My currect layout is often idle for a month of so, I walk in, turn it on and start running trains. It's been a couple of years since I've cleaned the track and that was due to scenery work. I miss the look of the code 40, but having a reliable system is more important to me. I live with the look of the track, even unmodified, and work on it a bit at a time. There's no rush to a hobby. Don
Myth, you say! What we got some myth busters. LOL Perhaps you need to know: I do solder in the rail joiners for reasons previously stated. No myth in what I said. Just not all of them. I do leave a few unsoldered rail joiners approximately every six feet, for expansion and contraction. Allowing the rails to slide back and forth. I cut in all my isolator gaps. These too allow the track to expand and contract. When constructing my blocks I started with the minimum of 6 linear feet long up to 12 linear feet long and two that are approximately 24 linear feet in length. The only time I've seen flex track "Explode" is when it's not put down properly. And then "Explode" is an over exaggerated expression but makes the point very well. In extreme applications the flex track will "Snake" as the rails slide back and forth. In my train shed the temperatures can vary from 0 degrees to 97 degrees. The summers here are mild but the winters have been layout killers. I do keep a frost watch heater in the shed but that still has temperatures diving into the 20's at times. The rails can move but I must say, no more then the width of your finger nail. I have one spot, under the helix, where I need to remove the track and replace it. I skimped on gluing the track down and it snaked just enough, to go out of alignment. Extreme situations require extreme construction methods. Myth busted! Grin...
I reviewed the solderless connections and the problem of it raising the rail and making things uneven. I think a solution might be to not twist the wire at all and put it in the joiner that way. My thinking is it will spread the strands out in the joiner and not raise the rail as much but still provide lots of contact. Again, I haven't tried this--yet--what are others thoughts?
