This layout was started many years ago. The idea is to get back to work on the Z-scale variation, of the 'Gum Stump and Snowshoe' with a continuous loop added. But thought I'd better practice on something smaller. Still trying to decide whether to go for a summer or winter scene. Here it is ready for a switching session. Using CRC 2-26 means even the Marklin locos move pretty reliably. The AZL locos crawl along very well. The layout is fun to operate, so I wish in retrospect I'd invested the time to make my own turnouts. This one will be good to work on my limited scenic skills though. Z Scale 8x36 by bcarter posted Jan 8, 2020 at 10:09 PM Thanks for reading. Take care, Brent
The concept looks great and I am quite sure it will be fun to get the details down. It is something I always thought about trying myself.
CRC 2-26 I looked it up, and much to my surprise, it sounds just like something I used to use back in the day, and just posted about in another topic... TV Tuner Cleaner! DESCRIPTION: Plastic safe lubricant, penetrant and corrosion inhibitor that helps prevent electrical malfunctions caused by water penetration, humidity, condensation or corrosion. Restores resistance values and helps stop current leakage. APPLICATIONS: Connectors, relays, circuit breakers, transformers, switchgear, motors, generators, controls, instruments, communication assemblies, electronics, alarm systems, starters, tubing, castings, gears, weld rod, wire, fixtures, dies, jigs, shim stock, chucks.
After looking it up, I would use CRC 2-26 by taking the shell off the loco, and spraying the motor and mechanism out. It probably has a 2mm straw like WD-40 to blow out gunk. It could also be wiped on the rails by spraying a bit on a folded piece of paper towel and wipe over the railheads to help remove black gunk.
Sorry for the slow reply. rray is correct. I've sprayed it on the loco parts themselves but my main application is to go over the rails with a stainless steel washer of a diameter just larger than the track spacing. When the washers are punched there is a small burr formed on one side. By leaving this side down and rubbing it over the rails with a little pressure the tops of the rails are scraped. You can flip it to the side without the burr and burnish the rails in the same way. Then I spray come CRC 2-26 on a clean wipe or rag and apply it to the tops of the rails. Some places recommend you let that dry but I've also just started running trains over it. They just seem to get better the more they run. I've had Z scale layouts that sat for months and a quick dusting usually results in very smooth running trains. Reapplying only takes a minute or two when you feel like it needs it. My Z scale stuff is about as reliable as some of my better N scale locos so I'm very pleased with the result. The AZL locos run slow enough to "count ties" and the old Marklin locos will run well at just slightly higher speeds, though a lot noisier. ;-) Take care, Brent
Oooooo No No No Noooooo. Don't scrape the rails !!!! Besides, they are not flat on top either. Unless you smoke, live in a really smoggy (polluted) or sea shore, a simple wipe down with a cotton T-shirt strip and any track fluid cleaner should suffice. If you really can get the cotton T-shirt to clean the rails with something like the CRC 2-26, then try and ULTRA fine sanding stick/board found in ANY beauty supply/drug store/$ store with a 1500 or better: 2000 grit. It will polish more than scrape. After one cleaning, it should be easy to just simple wipe clean. Also make sure your locomotive wheels are clean. Just avoid the Minitrix brass brushes, if you have ALZ loco's with traction tires. For those, just a T-shirt strip with alcohol (prefer 91 or 100% [more flammable]) across the track for 1 truck. This also helps you find out if one truck (or even an axle) has pickup problems. You can also get this metallic conductive foam to clean the trucks, safe on traction tires. Yoko Tsugawa #12508 (clips to track rails or cut and connect to other) Yoko Tsugawa #12509 (sits on the rails)
