A Baldwin DT6-6-2000 in N scale

James Norris May 8, 2014

  1. James Norris

    James Norris TrainBoard Supporter

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    I will have few spares as well. :)

    It just helps to know rougly how many, and ordeing more later is not a problem.

    -James
     
  2. Cajonpassfan

    Cajonpassfan TrainBoard Supporter

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    Okay, thank you James; about .0078" for us non-metric types, or inch and a quarter scale. Hope the brass is stiff enough...?
    Otto
     
  3. santafe

    santafe TrainBoard Member

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    hi otto

    tom cataldo here order my shell ups lost my package dam im mad shapeways going to print new for me next weekk
     
  4. santafe

    santafe TrainBoard Member

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    james

    tom cataldo here i need a set of the etching please let me know when there ready
     
  5. James Norris

    James Norris TrainBoard Supporter

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    Hi Tom,

    That sucks, but I am pleased you are getting a replacment. I have you down for a set of etched handrails.:)

    -James
     
  6. santafe

    santafe TrainBoard Member

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  7. Calzephyr

    Calzephyr TrainBoard Supporter

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    Hi James,

    I would like at least two for the two model of the DT6-6-2000 I have.

    But... I was wondering if these might also be usable for the Baldwin VO-660 models I also have
    .
    One set of DT6-6-2000 brass railings could do side railings for two VO-660's.

    However, I'm not sure if the front railing would be correct for a VO-660; and, there would still be a need for the back railings of the VO-660.
     
  8. James Norris

    James Norris TrainBoard Supporter

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    Hi Joe,

    Yep, I've got you down for 2 sets. As for the VO-660 railings I can do a full set if you like? I will just need some info, I will ask at my club and see if anybody has one first.

    -James
     
  9. Calzephyr

    Calzephyr TrainBoard Supporter

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    Railings for VO-660 would be great news!!!

    Yes!!! James... Please find out if you can get the details for appropriate VO-660 railings!! If you can do them... I would need FOUR of them.

    Unfortunately... the VO-660 from PiperGuy does NOT come with any railing. PiperGuy suggests using the railing from the Bachmann NW-2 bodies which are donating the mechanism for the VO-660's. I prefer to leave on those railing on the NW-2 bodies since I will try to sell them off to defray some costs of the VO-660 bodies I bought.

    BTW:

    Here are some photos of the VO-660 from PiperGuy... they too are suffering some of the same issues with the misprinting of the end details:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Run8Racing

    Run8Racing TrainBoard Member

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    OK, James, I will need four sets of your handrails whenever they are ready. Also, I read where you used Goo Gone to clean your shells. I was able to find some after asking several places for Bestine. Any special tricks for using GG ??? THANKS !!!
     
  11. Cajonpassfan

    Cajonpassfan TrainBoard Supporter

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    I can't speak of GG personally, but Bestine is great in that it leaves no residue and requires no real scrubbing which may damage fine details. I couldn't find it locally either, but got it online from Blicks Art in a matter of days; just googled Blicks Art Bestine...
    Otto, still waiting for my replacement shell to arrive from Shapeways...:(
     
  12. Dave Schneider

    Dave Schneider TrainBoard Member

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    Joe,

    The printing issue you are seeing with your VO-660 shells is not a "misprinting" issue (with the exception of the cab blob), but rather a printing orientation issue. The fuzziness you see is due to the wax layer that is printed first to support the FUD, which is printed next. If I had to bet, I suspect that the ones with the fuzzy nose were printed nose down, and the one with the fuzzy cab was printed nose up. Shapeways does not allow for the print orientation to be specified. Roof up would probably be best, but any surface that is overhung by a protruding detail will contain fuzz. In my opinion, this is the biggest issue facing 3D printing that needs to be improved before it is possible to produce prints that do justice to the 3D design.

    Best wishes, Dave
     
  13. James Norris

    James Norris TrainBoard Supporter

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    Hi,

    Yep, got you down for 2 sets of rails. As for the Goo Gone.

    1st, Rinse the parts under the tap with warm water to wash of the bulk of the wax. Then puts some GG in a Jar with a lid and totally submerge the parts. Then leave for about 24 hours. Remove the parts and wash off again, they will look yellow, still a bit transparent and smell great ;-).

    Then leave out in the open for 24 to 48 hours, they will turn whiter and opaque. You may need to gently brush off some of the wax that will have turned to powder. Then paint.

    And before somebody jumps all over this, yes from what I have seen Bestine is great but as I can’t get it here, even by mail order, and Goo Gone works just fine.

    -James
     
  14. bobthebear

    bobthebear TrainBoard Supporter

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    I will just add one extra thing. It has been mentioned before, but is very important.
    THE FIRST COAT OF PAINT MUST NOT BE ENAMEL. It will never dry. IT MUST BE ACRYLIC. Don't ask me how I know this!
    Cheers, Bob.
     
  15. James Norris

    James Norris TrainBoard Supporter

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    Hi all,

    I now have the price for the DT6-6-2000 etched brass parts and they are going into production, they should be arriving at the beginning of next week. If you want a set, or more, please send me a PM and I will send you the details.

    -James
     
  16. ns737

    ns737 TrainBoard Supporter

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    HI are you using enamel paint over the acrylic base coat?
     
  17. Calzephyr

    Calzephyr TrainBoard Supporter

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    Hi Otto,

    Good to see that you will be receiving replacement shells. Let us know how they came out.

    The response from Shapeways for my concerns was quite different... but... acceptable.
    My complaint for the DT6-6-2000 was not received in a timely manner... 10 days from receipt of the item(s)... for them to rectify a problem.
    I was about 7 days late for them to make a similar replacement.

    However, since I had ordered the VO-660's and had problems with them as well as other models I've received in the past... AND... my complaint was with the 10 day window... I was given a credit for that order.

    While the 'window' for complaint is relative short... at least they are willing to correct issues with the manufacturing of these products. The credit will be used to replace the most damaged models I've received. I'm going to deal with the DT6-6-2000 as they were received by sanding away as much of the defect as possible. It will obliterate the door details on that end... but... it is acceptable enough for me.

    Two of the VO-660's are pretty good once the fuzz is sanded down... though still not smooth. The other two have too many issues and will be replaced. One of my Fairbanks Morse H10-4-4 needs replacement... and two of the Krauss-Maffei ML 4000s will be replaced. The order is for more than the credit... but... hopefully I will not have any more big issues with these prints.

    I have advised the Customer Service person, Andrew, to look into the proper ORIENTATION of the models when printed... as advised by Mr. Schneider in an earlier post. Hopefully that will prevent some of these undesirable issues.
     
  18. bobthebear

    bobthebear TrainBoard Supporter

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    Good question!

    Enamel is fine once the FUD is "sealed" by the acrylic.
     
  19. Randy Stahl

    Randy Stahl TrainBoard Supporter

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    I put Floquil primer and Scalecoat directly on the FUD without issues. I don't normally use acrylics
     
  20. Randy Stahl

    Randy Stahl TrainBoard Supporter

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    DSC_0077.JPG DSC_0076.jpg

    I don't usually have a problem

    In the background you can see some models with the Floquil primer before wet sanding. After sanding these cars turn out glass smooth with Scalecoat paint.

    Randy
     
    PGE-N°2 likes this.

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