Last time I did my layout, I used (built-right) with track nails to hold it down. The problem with that is the track always came loose. The nails always seemed to wreck the track. This time I would like to try something different with foam or cork. What do you use for the foam to the cork and then track to the cork? Do you use adhesives, nails, caulking. I’m just trying to learn a better way before I get started. Nothing has been built as of yet and this will help me decide how I should start.
Latex Liquid Nails, if gluing track to foam Liquid Nails for Construction, if gluing cork to wood (this stuff eats foam, you've been warned) It's all I use. Walther's Goo works for track too (eats foam). I did my Z scale layout with it.
I used some scenic glue (paste-like) from Woodland Scenics, sorry can't think of exact name. Used for both cork-to-foam and track-to-cork. Very tough, no movement, no problems, water cleanup. Would and will do it again.
I used Liquid Nails to glue the foam roadbed to the foam surface, but I don't see why this couldn't be used for cork. For the track, I have it nailed with track nails (I'm building in N scale). After ballasting and adding a diluted white glue mixture to the ballast, I'll let things dry and remove some of the nails. However, I hadn't thought of gluing track to the roadbed- I may test that out first......
I use the cheapest latex caulk I can find for roadbed to foam (that's both WS foam roadbed and cork). I've also used Aileen's (sp?) Tacky Glue and Liquid Nails for Projects. None attack my foam. For track to cork or track to foam roadbed, I use latex caulk, tacky glue or CA, depending on what I'm trying to do. Obviously, the CA is more permanent.
Old School? I use wood as my sub-road bed and cork as my roadbed. I find that good old fashioned Elmers or Elmers Wood Glue works great for cork to wood applications. I will nail the cork roadbed and track down... to position it. When the track is where I want it I follow-up with a bead of Cyanoacrylate, Gap Filling Glue, applied down the center... to secure the track. It takes an act of congress, chain saw and jack hammers to remove the track. Actually, it takes a little praying (oops grin) prying and I can remove it. Just in case, I need to add a switch or change the routing. Nothing like it. Warning (Caution) (Consider this): Neither one of these adhesives will work on foam. The cyanoacrylate will melt the foam and the Elmers glue won't adhere foam to foam, cork to foam. AND, You don't want to use Elmers to secure track to cork. During warmer weather the Elmers glue has a tendency to expand resulting in uneven track and possible movement/realignment of track. However, it works well in the applications indicated above in my first paragraph. Have fun!
I have used adhesive caulk and matte medium. I prefer the matte medium (for all applications, cork to bas, track to cork) as it is easy to pull up when you want to change something or make a mistake. Nails are a bad idea (IMHO). They can work loose and can cause gauge problems if installed too deep.
Latex adhesive caulk for both although I am using the WS foam roadbed, not cork. You get about 10-15 minutes before it sets and comes up easily with a putty knife if you screw up. When adhering track spread a VERY thin bead out into a VERY thin layer on the roadbed. If the caulk oozes up between the ties, you have used too much.
Liquid nails here. On an older layout, I used cork on foam with sewing pins to hold my track till after I ballasted. Ballast seems to hold the track in place nicely with the glue. Ballast glue for me is matte medium. I prefer to avoid any kind of organic that may attract bugs or decompose over time. white glue is, after all, made from milk.
This is going to help a great deal. I was thinking of spreading an adhesive thin about the width of the track when I lay it down. What do you use to cut 2 inch Styrofoam? If I’m not mistaking, this can be difficult. Knife, Saw, Blade?
All of the above, plus a hot-wire cutter. Woodland Scenics makes one and you can probably get one from the local hobby shop.
Bread knife, steak knife, utility knife. I use a drywall square (it's like an enormous t-square) to keep cuts straight if I'm cutting down a 4X8 sheet. I'm too cheap to buy a hotwire although you can supposedly make one with a cheap Radio Shack soldering gun.
I've made one out of a soldering gun before but it wasn't big enough to go down the middle of a 4X8 sheet. I'll have to use a steak knife or something. Thank you.:tb-smile:
Train- Any of the above, depending on what you are trying to do. I have found that the box cutter that comes with snap off blades is pretty much the best for cutting without a lot of fuzz being generated. Extend the snap off blade to its maximum length and CAREFULLY cut. The strip of blades can be replaced at Home Depot if you purchased the cutter there in the first place (in the paint section).
I use white glue, for the wood, for the tracks, and diluted with water for ballast. Then I use CA and plastic cement. Sometimes two part epoxy. Wolfgang
