Adventures In Dry Transfers

DragonFyreGT Feb 16, 2009

  1. DragonFyreGT

    DragonFyreGT TrainBoard Member

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    Well it has been quite an adventure and after spending near 15 bucks on 3 sheets for just my FB-1 and partially for my Yard Office, I've finally gotten the hang of it. Next on the list is Testor's Dullcoat Laquor Finish. This should seal my decals in a flat finish, unless someone else knows a better way, in which case I'm all ears. Here are the photos, Left & Right of my FB-1 and the Yard Office (1 photo):
    BN2072_LefttSideDecals.jpg BN2072_RightSideDecals.jpg YardOffice.jpg

    Ignore the broken plastic grill. I have metal ones on order still. That happened due to a freak accident. I hope to add photos of my heavyweights when they get finished here. It's been quite an adventure but what I found works for me is to tape the dry transfer down by leave a centimeter around it (unless placing next to another unsealed decal as scotch tape is how you remove them if you fubar it up), then using a white eraser I just rub it off the transfer paper. Sometimes a small corner doesn't transfer so I lay it back down and rub that small part back onto the model. It's 5.99 for Woodland Scenics Burnishing tool. I am not going to say that _YOU_ shouldn't get it. I'm not here to say Yay or Nay to a product, but to just say that my standard pencil eraser worked fine for me personally. I'll leave the rest up to you all.

    I know most people I talked to said use decals that need that liquid transfer stuff. Meh, I'm not that skilled at that. Just ask every messed up model I did as a kid. I like Dry Transfer. For those of near zero skill, it's very easy to do, and fixable if you make a minor mistake. This hobby has become more of a learning process to me and it's becoming a whole lot easier every time I do it.
     
  2. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman TrainBoard Member

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    Dry transfers have always been difficult to me. If I start out slightly off then the whole transfer is messed up. Multi color transfers that require multiple overlays are hard, too. Still, I have done some that worked out okay. They certainly have better color than decals and probably a better shelf life. (My decals have a better shelf life by sealing them in an air-tight plastic bag.)

    My best success with dry transfers was to put them on clear decal paper, seal them up, and then apply like a decal. Here is a recent model using this method.

    [edit] BTW, I am in N scale; maybe that makes a difference?
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 16, 2009

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