Ahearn parts

Shannon Jan 17, 2003

  1. Shannon

    Shannon TrainBoard Member

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    Help,
    I have a Athearn SD 40-2 with a broken coupler pocket. I need to find a new underframe for it. I have tried my local hobby shop that carries lots of Athearn parts but no luck. They say that they can order one from Wathers, but Wathers does not have one in stock. The underframe number is 46729. If anyone knows where I can get the underframe please let me know.

    Thanks :D
     
  2. rch

    rch TrainBoard Member

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    You can order parts directly from Athearn. Go to Athearn.com, navigate to their parts page, and send them an email. Or you can just mail them a check for the total.

    RC
     
  3. Shannon

    Shannon TrainBoard Member

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    RC

    That is not a good choice. I have all ready been to the Athearn page and I was told 4 to 6 week for the item. Thats why I put the request on the board.

    Thanks

    Shannon [​IMG]
     
  4. ncng

    ncng TrainBoard Member

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    I am not familiar with this loco or the coupler pocket. Would it be possible to drill and tap what is currently on the frame to accept a coupler or has the pocket been completely broken off? If it has completely broken off, would it be possible to attach a Kadee coupler pocket to the shell?

    Locomotive repair is my weak point so just some thoughts.

    David
     
  5. ncng

    ncng TrainBoard Member

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    I think I found one for you. Check out this link.

    http://www.railshop.com/RailShopProducts.asp

    You will have to search for the item. I selected Athearn and then entered SD40-2 in the right hand search box. I then found the frame on button 7, item 45019. The buttons are at the bottom of the page.

    David

    [ 17. January 2003, 23:01: Message edited by: ncng ]
     
  6. Shannon

    Shannon TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks David,

    I got this to late on friday to contact them to see if they have the item in stock. As you know the catalog may say they have it but i like to check before I order. So i will either email them this weekend or give them a call on Monday.

    Thanks again,

    Shannon [​IMG]
     
  7. Shannon

    Shannon TrainBoard Member

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    I think maybe my blond was showing when I posted the first message. First I did not spell Athearn correctly (left out the T) :confused: Then I said SD 40-2 but what I really have is a GP 40-2. Its hell gettin old, the mind goes first........but I can't remember the second thing [​IMG]
     
  8. RidgeRunner

    RidgeRunner TrainBoard Member

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    Hey, if ya can't find it, call The Little Choo Choo shop in Spencer, NC... I don't have the phone number or website addy handy, but they're in the back of Model Railroader. I was in there earlier today, and they've got a good bit of Athearn parts.

    Oh, and they ship too!
     
  9. rch

    rch TrainBoard Member

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    What precisely are you looking for? An Athearn GP40-2 frame? Body shell? You said coupler pocket at first, right? I can't really think of what that falls under, whether it's the shell or the frame. In any event, try Caboose Hobbies in Denver, CO or Custom Railway Supply in Colorado Springs, CO for whatever parts you need. You should be able to get what you need between the two of them. I used to hit Caboose every time my wife and I would go to Denver, then we'd visit this ultimate shopping mall south of Denver. If there was anything I couldn't find at Caboose you could rest assured I'd have it within the hour when we made it to CRS in the Springs.
     
  10. ncng

    ncng TrainBoard Member

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    Shannon,

    The link I gave for the SD40-2 frame is also good for the GP40-2 frame. I did a search for GP40-2 and found it listed near the bottom of page 2 after the search. Or you can try the other peoples suggestions.

    David
     
  11. Shannon

    Shannon TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks very much to all of you for your help. I have never had this happen to me before so I was kinda paniced when it did. To answer your question David the pocket broke off right at the frame. I wondered if I super glue it if it would work but as porus as the metal is I did not think it would.

    Now I have a couple of places to check to see if I can come up with the frame. By the way the number I posted in the first message is correct. All I am looking for is the frame.

    Thanks again all :D [​IMG]
     
  12. dewain50

    dewain50 TrainBoard Member

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    Shannon,
    You might try drilling a hole in both parts to accept a piece of brass rod and then use the Mechanic's friend, J B Weld, to form a bond over the parting line.
    Dean
    The Train Doctor
     
  13. Shannon

    Shannon TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks Doc,

    I did not even think about the JB Weld. I have some in the desk in the train room. I will give that a try [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  14. friscobob

    friscobob Staff Member

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    The only other thing I could suggest would be to body-mount your couplers- put some pieces of plastic in the shell behind the pilot (cement them in), then screw in a Kadee coupler box (use either a number 5 or number 58).
     
  15. Shannon

    Shannon TrainBoard Member

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    Hey Doc,

    I tried the JB with no luck. [​IMG] But thanks for the idea.

    Bob,

    I think it is possible to body mount the couplers in the manner you suggested. I will look at that before I attempt to order the new underframe. Several years ago I tried to body mount couplers in the manner you suggest and I had limited succes. But later on I ended up replacing the broken boxes with new underframes. That was only on passenger and freight cars, never on a locomotive.

    Again I really thank all of you for you suggestions and your help. I am glad I found you all when i did.

    Thanks,

    Shannon :D
     
  16. watash

    watash Passed away March 7, 2010 TrainBoard Supporter In Memoriam

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    Shannon, I had a pot metal frame break years ago and also tried epoxy to stick it back, with no luck. The mold release oil in the pores of the Zamac prevented the epoxy from gripping the surface.

    I cut a piece of ,032" thick brass sheet slightly narrower than the frame width, and long enough to reach across the break line to allow two bolt holes on each side. I clamped the brass on top of the frame and drilled through both at the same time, then inserted an 0-80 screw and tightened a nut on it.

    Then I did the same on the other side of the frame.

    Then I could move the clamps and hold the broken off piece in place against the frame, and drill a couple of holes through it and the brass, and tighten screws in that.

    There was room for this piece inside the shell, and with the nuts up inside the body, the bolt heads did not prevent the trucks from turning to go around my tightest curve.

    Then I used the original coupler OK.

    See if you have room for something like this on your frame.

    [ 20. January 2003, 12:25: Message edited by: watash ]
     
  17. Shannon

    Shannon TrainBoard Member

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    First I want to thank all of you who weight in on my problem. Its nice to hear from others who have had some of the same problems and also to hear the fixes [​IMG]

    I did call Athearn yesterday to see if they had the underframe in stock. To my suprise I got a call back this morning [​IMG] telling me that they were producing the GP 40-2 at the present time and the underframe was in stock. So I went ahead and placed the order. I also ask if I could get an other part I needed. I had seen this part only in bags of 12 but I only needed one. The young lady who I talked to said it was no problem and she would not charge me for the part [​IMG]

    I am very suprised that Athearn has done something about there customer service. I have had a couple of dealings with them over the past 3 or 4 years about the new wheels that they are putting on there dummy locos. When I ask for help all I got was a very turse email saying the wheels were fine when they left the factory, and the problem was mine. :mad: They did on request send replacement wheels, but I don't think they were to happy about it. I hope this is a trend ;)

    After the problems I have had in the past I started buying Proto and nothing else. I hope Athearn continues to improve as I have Athearn locos that are over 30 years old and are still running fine. [​IMG]

    Again thanks for all the help. :D
     

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