While airbrushing this weekend, the trigger was getting a little stuck at times. I clean it after every use, my question is, can I use the same oil I use on my N scale trains to lube the trigger or do I have to use "Super Lube" that Iwata sells for it airbrushes?
Bernard, my Badger 150 began sticking a while back, so I fully disassembled it for a complete cleaning. I found there was an almost invisible build up of paint on the trigger and needle valves that was preventing smooth motion. Once dissolved and carefully cleaned, the brush has worked fine since, and without any lube. BTW, I downloaded the airbrush illustrated parts diagram and assembly instructions from the Badger website before starting, it was a big help.
A complete teardown is what I'd advise. When the needle gets sluggish and the valve doesn't operate smoothly, that's a probable cause. Get a pack of pipe cleaners from the local cigar/pipe smoker's shop, and dip one in lacquer thinner. Run that thru the brush body, where the needle goes. You'd be amazed what comes out!
Whatever you do, don't use oil in there. If any oil residue mixes with your paint, your paint job will suffer as paint won't adhere if there is oil mixed in with it. You could end up with a very leperous looking paint job. :tb-smile:
I used Dawn dishwashing liquid for lubricating a doorbell button that kept sticking. Worked very well and very little is required. Apply sparingly like you apply lubes to your locos. Ben
Dee Das makes a good point about the oil even though Iwata sells it as a product. I think I'll try the little bit of Dawn on the trigger plus cleaning it with a pipe cleaner dipped in lacquer. The needle works fine, it's the trigger that's sticking when I push down, not when I pull back. Thanks to all for the advice.
If using Badger 150 etc,you can use some wax on the threaded parts,thats if it's as worn out as mine is.........it'll tighten up the adjustment of the needle somewhat plus help keep the air brush body air tight.
What type of wax? There are many types, e.g. bee, ski, candle, shoe, etc., all of which have different properties and additives.
Cleaning the gun is the most important thing you can do to give good service and long life. Arm yourself with pipe cleaners, Q-tips, micro brushes, bees wax and rosin paper 1200 grit or better (to burnish the needle valve). Disassemble the brush compleatly, place small parts screws, bolts, ect.. on reversed sided masking tape so as not to lose them. Clean every crevice, channel and part with Lacquer thinner, check the seals to see if there worn and replace if needed. after cleaning the needle valve burnish with rosin paper. Look very close at the parts are any worn or not true? (out of round or bent) If yes replace with new parts and re-assemble with bees wax on all screw fittings, now shoot some thinner thru the brush to see what the pattern looks like. You ask how do I do that? Easy, take a small coffee can in one hand and the brush in the other. Hold up between the the light and start shooting into the can (Not at your face). You will see the fan pattern. Play with the adjustment valve untell you get an even fan shape there should be no ruff edges to it. If there are you need a new needle valve or head assembly or both. I have had my Passche's for over 12 years and have never had to lub anything and I not only use them for my model work but I use them professionaly day in and day out. I will bet you have a dirty trigger assembly or something is bent in there. If that's the case, buy a new brush and take better care of it. "Still Training After All These Years"
Some SP locos are perfect for this situation. There's some that are losing paint in spots that would almost perfectly be duplicated by an oily airbrush!
Well, you learn something new every day. There is such a thing as "Airbrush Lube". This is where I saw the above advertised: www.dixieart.com BTW Hemi, I always wanted the job held by that SP guy who was supposed to wash their locomotives. I could sit around all day doing nothing.
