Airbrush questions

Keith Dec 8, 2012

  1. Keith

    Keith TrainBoard Supporter

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    All,
    Thanksgiving weekend, I was able to score a new, unused
    Central Pneumatic 30psi, 2cfm air compressor. Now, I'm loo,king to
    either find one of a couple of airbrushes I have, or get me a new one.

    For those that have and use an airbrush:
    1. What make airbrush do you use?
    2. Single or dual action?
    3. Internal or external mix?

    Also what kind of paint do you use?

    Last, for now, what about some sort of vented paint booth?
    Would need something that I could modify, if necessary, to exhaust
    out of a basement window.

    Maybe, once I can get set up, I can start doing some needed painting!
    Information appreciated.
    Thanks.
     
  2. traintodd

    traintodd TrainBoard Member

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    I use Iwata dual action internal mix, either the Eclipse or the Revolution depending on the size of the work I'm doing, and mostly gravity feed, although siphon bottles are better for scenery and other larger volume usage. I use Either Polly S or Model Master acrylics, I think Polly S sprays better straight for flat model RR applicatons, the Model Master is better for glossy or fine modeling work. I have a Pasche metal collapsible booth that that hooked up with flexible dryer ducting to a dryer vent outside the house but a basement window works well also. At previous house I used solid ducting to a basement window with a screen, and when I was painting, I just opened the window and ran the fan out the window. The screen got a little color on it where the ducting hit it, but it worked great. Make sure you have a regulator and moisture trap hooked up to the compressor. I usually only spray at about 15-20 psi, and depending on the day and the temperatures, you may have moisture built up in the tank, so a regulator/moisture trap is a necessity.


    I would spend the extra bucks and get a good airbrush. I know a lot of folks use simple single action external mix brushes and get great results, but with a good gravity or siphon feed double action with a medium nozzle you can do virtually any type of painting you would need to do from repainting cars and locomotive, painting structures, weathering and fine line detail work. I have used Pasche and Badger brushes, but for me, Iwata is the best for hobby use. Very smooth action, lots of control, lays down great lines and coats and easy to clean. They are made with very high quality materials, all metal construction, and parts are easy to get, usually Hobby Lobby has needles and valves, or there are a half dozen place on the internet that sell Iwata brushes and parts, usually at a pretty good discount.

    I am not an airbrush artist by any means, but I know having a good brush really makes it easier for me to get at least acceptable results.

    Todd
     
  3. ratled

    ratled TrainBoard Supporter

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    1. What make airbrush do you use? Paasche
    2. Single or dual action? Both a VL and a Model H. I use the Model H for for most of my work as it is easier to use and more importantly, easier to clean ( the most imprtant thing of ABs)
    3. Internal or external mix? External - it's easier to clean

    Also what kind of paint do you use? Solvent based. Floquil, Scale Coat. I have been messing around with spraying the cheap craft acrylics from Walmart for 50- 75 cents each for buildings and scenery with positive results.

    Last, for now, what about some sort of vented paint booth? I LOVE MY Paasche 16 -20!!!! http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/pahospbo.html This guy has free ship http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Paasche...487?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b693830f

    I can't say enough about it. I did a few mods to make it work just a little better but I do that to all of my stuff. I use 4" flex dryer duct to route it to the outside. Let me know if you want more on it.

    I'll echo Todd on all of this " Make sure you have a regulator and moisture trap hooked up to the compressor. I usually only spray at about 15-20 psi, and depending on the day and the temperatures, you may have moisture built up in the tank, so a regulator/moisture trap is a necessity."


    ratled
     
  4. traintodd

    traintodd TrainBoard Member

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    Ratled
    Glad you have a good memory as that is the booth I have and it is outstanding compared to some of the cardboard and plastic things I have seen out there in that price range. One thing I really like about it is that it has a really nice, strong fan motor. Thanks for getting that info.

    Todd
     
  5. ratled

    ratled TrainBoard Supporter

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    I caulked the seams and all the "suck" comes from you and not any of the seams. It really helps

    ratled
     
  6. Fishplate

    Fishplate TrainBoard Supporter

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    My Badger 200 (the regular 200, not the "detail" version) is a single-action, internal mix design. It is infinitely better than my previous airbrush, a Paasche V, which would clog constantly regardless of paint type or air pressure.

    I use mostly Polly Scale or Badger Modelflex acrylics, but also Floquil and Testors enamel, depending on the project. The Badger handles them all very nicely.
     
  7. Keith

    Keith TrainBoard Supporter

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    Looking to go Badger again, for airbrush.
    Have 2 of them around here, somewhere!!
    Can't find them though. May be better going new anyway.
    Probably won't hurt to see IF I can locate at least one brush!
    And see if I can get it good and clean.

    Appreciate the info as well, on the paint booth.
    Will look into it, for more I for and pricing etc...
    Then just need to decide what to do and when.

    Appreciate all the excellent info so far!
    Thanks.
     
  8. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Keith, Airbrushes range in price and quality and as such you'll get as many answers as there are painters. One thing I will tell you is that real airbrushes are made of metal and stainless, not plastic. Any of the brushes offered by Pasche, Badger and Iwata are good choices. I have been using a Badger 150, an internal mix, dual action brush, for a number of years and have had great success with it. I hope to get an Iwata soon as I have heard nothing but praise for them and a recent chance to try one at Trainfest last month, sealed the deal.

    As far as paint, I have used Floquil, Pollyscale and Badger Model Flex. All have there pros and cons. You definately want to get a booth and please do not fall into a false sense of security with acrylics. People think they are safe because they are none toxic. While not toxic, the small particles of over spray can be inhaled into your lungs. Since those small particles are plastic, they will not break down. A spray booth and a resperator is a good option. Better to be a smoker and quit than a acrylic painter without a booth and respirator or mask.
     
  9. ratled

    ratled TrainBoard Supporter

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    "All have there pros and cons. You definately want to get a booth and please do not fall into a false sense of security with acrylics. People think they are safe because they are none toxic. While not toxic, the small particles of over spray can be inhaled into your lungs. Since those small particles are plastic, they will not break down. A spray booth and a resperator is a good option. Better to be a smoker and quit than a acrylic painter without a booth and respirator or mask."

    AMEN Brother <---- from the choir
     
  10. subwayaz

    subwayaz TrainBoard Member

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    This has been an interesting Thread to follow; since I purchased a Compressor and separate air gun and learned that it makes a big difference in what combo you purchase. Thanks for the lessons
     
  11. blvdbuzzard

    blvdbuzzard TrainBoard Member

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    I have (4) Paasche single action with 3 different tips. I have an Aztec with 5 tips, (9) Harbor Freight air brushes, plus several small touch up guns, medium sized paint guns and then the full sized paint guns. They sort of multiplied in the draw when I was not looking.

    Aztek

    http://www.testors.com/product/1371...SingleDouble_Action_Internal_Mix_Airbrush_Set

    For something this simple, it works for a range of things. It is not a detail but an over all airbrush. It would be for a larger area not the tiny lines. I had to see what it was like. I picked it up at the parking lot sale for $5.00

    http://www.harborfreight.com/airbrush-kit-47791.html

    I bought this set when it was on sale for for $140.00 with a 20% off coupon. One was pretty rough but they exchanged without question. They work pretty well. I do like not having to clean it just to use another color. I have used them to paint my R/C cars, planes and helicopters. When you have 5 paints mixed and ready, it is so much faster to grab another airbrush then to clean the tip and swap the bottles.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/professional-6-color-airbrush-kit-with-holder-95923.html

    I have this one too. I find it works well for the real thin paints and inks.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/deluxe-airbrush-kit-95810.html

    You will need a good air supply. I have a 60 gallon 5ph power air compressor in the shop so I have no problem powering an air brush. One of the small 3 to 6 gallon compressor will work well for an air brush. Some of them can be pretty loud. Yet they do not cycle all that much when using an airbrush.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/3-gallon-100-psi-oilless-pancake-air-compressor-95275.html

    You will also need a regulator. A simple one will help to get the air pressure consistent.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/14-mini-air-regulator-with-gauge-68226.html

    Maybe a water trap

    http://www.harborfreight.com/mini-air-line-filter-68225.html

    I have used water based enamels to 2 part automotive acrylic enamels. Thin the paint. Thin the paint then strain the paint. I have watched people use the paint to thick and then raise the air pressure then complain it does not give a fine detail. Thin paint, low air pressure.

    I have used a simple card board box and shop vac as a paint booth for my water based paints. I had a spark proof box fan I used for a while when I used the solvent based paints.

    After a while you may collect more then you need. That is what happened to me.


    Buzz.
     
  12. PaulBeinert

    PaulBeinert TrainBoard Supporter

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    The more I read the more confused I get :)
    Single Action vs Double Action?
    Gravity Feed vs Siphon Feed?

    For someone that has never used a airbrush before, where do I start?
    I understand the components just not which to choose and why to choose it.

    I will initially be using it for painting scenery i.e. models but am assuming that eventually I will get into detailing custom painting cars and locomotives
     
  13. blvdbuzzard

    blvdbuzzard TrainBoard Member

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    Start with a very siple one. I still have my first Badger single action airbrush.

    This one wil do a lot of the larger areas and give a thin line down to about 1/8 inch with low air pressure and thin paint.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/airbrush-kit-47791.html

    The gravity feed airbrushes I have are for really thin fluids.

    Do you know what you are going to use to power the airbrush? small compressor, canned air, spare tire?


    Buzz.
     
  14. PaulBeinert

    PaulBeinert TrainBoard Supporter

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  15. blvdbuzzard

    blvdbuzzard TrainBoard Member

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    When I used the airbrush compressors like that, I never had an even flow of air. Adding a tank will even the flow of air out so you do not get a blast then flow. I has the Badger compressor like that. I ended up using an old steel fire extinguisher for an air tank. The little compressor work for a couple years until I got a large compressor and tank.

    One of these little guys would work well. They have the regulator, so you would need the water trap.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/1-3-hp-3-gallon-100-psi-oilless-air-compressor-97080.html

    http://www.harborfreight.com/3-gallon-100-psi-oilless-pancake-air-compressor-95275.html

    Water trap

    http://www.harborfreight.com/mini-air-line-filter-68225.html

    Buzz.
     

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