Airbrush Sprayer

Willyboy Nov 20, 2007

  1. Steve 4 Painting

    Steve 4 Painting TrainBoard Member

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    ...do I read here something between the lines ? ;)

    Bob, if you like to super detail a factory painted engine with BLMA and other detail parts and you don't like to paint the whole engine new I can explain you here what I am doing. after I did disassemble the whole engine so I can work with the shell only I shave (cut) all the molded on details off (x-acto #17). then I drill the necessary holes for the detail parts into the shell. next step is to try to match the color as close as possible to cover the shaved off parts. then drill holes into a piece of styrene or similar and stick the detail parts into it. paint the detail parts while on the styrene with the airbrush. seal the paint with a clear coat. let everything dry. place the detail parts with a plier on your model and glue everything on FROM THE INSIDE. weather the whole engine or at least paint the whole shell with a dull coat. assemble everything back together. place the engine on the rails. turn your throttle and enjoy your new beauty... :)
     
  2. ntbn1

    ntbn1 TrainBoard Member

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    I have an Aztek double action airbrush. It is my first move from single action to double. I have found that the double action works very well with acrylics, but the lower the pressure the better. Less air slows the paint drying in the tip problem mentioned above. With the added control of the double action, I feel I can do a much better job with light colors like white.

    I use a cleaning solution of dilute "Spic and span" and ammonia, followed by clear water. It cleans well, even the dried on paint. No sign of it hurting the sprayer parts.

    Dave Gentry
    Cache Valley & Northern RR
     
  3. Willyboy

    Willyboy TrainBoard Supporter

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    The Iwata Eclipse HP-BCE seems to be competitive with the Passche VL models; however, there are many high end models in Iwata that will break the break. Yes Steve, you are partially reading between the lines. There are some spots I would like to touch up due to clumsy handling. Not very big or very noticeable. BTW, I just mixed some orange for IM WP units and it seems to be a dead on match. I painted some sample chips and let them dry. Then I placed them on the shell and picked one that looks just right. Now the silver is another situation, I purchased three different silvers and non match. My hobby dealer told me there were 27 different shades of silver. Oh, woe is me. This is getting expensive.
     
  4. Willyboy

    Willyboy TrainBoard Supporter

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    there are many high end models in Iwata that will break the break. [/QUOTE]

    Should read break the bank, sorry.
     
  5. HemiAdda2d

    HemiAdda2d Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    I usually paint very close; inside of 2-3 inches from the model!

    Here is an OUSTANDING how-to, and it helped me immensely! This should clear some stuff up for you:
    http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?t=92212
     
  6. Willyboy

    Willyboy TrainBoard Supporter

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    Thank you very much HemiAdda2d . That answers all my questions then and whole bunch I would have never even have given a thought . Really great article. Everybody has been so helpful. i just love this forum.
     

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