This model holds a special place in my (small) collection: it was the first brass engine I purchased, it looks nice, and up 'till recently, has run very well. Hence this post. If I run it counter-clockwise: that is, with it making only left-hand turns, it runs like a dream. If I run it clock-wise, with right-hand turns, it will abruptly stop at several places around my test oval. I'm sure it's not the track, as none of my other locos (including another Akane steamer) show this problem. At first I thought it might be the pilot shorting out; I was able to raise it slightly, just to make sure, but that didn't help. It's not an issue with the tender, as I swapped out the original with the tender from my Akane Mike, and it does the same thing. Any thoughts or suggestions? Mark in Oregon
Have you checked all the wire pick-ups? You could have a loose wire somewhere that only shows up when a truck is turned a certain direction.
There's definitely a mechanical-electrical issue here. If it were mine, I would leave track power off and connect an ohmmeter to the tracks, and push the loco around to see exactly when it shorts (and if it is indeed shorting and not going open circuit). That would give a clue to what part of the loco is doing the shorting. You could also try a wider radius curve than your test oval. That would also give you a clue as to what is causing the problem - wider radius makes for less mechanical travel, and maybe it won't short if whatever's inside doesn't move far enough to do that. You could also look at the coupler, as some (like Kadees) are all metal, thus in contact with the frame. That little metal tail coming down might swing far enough out to touch the opposite rail, creating a short. I've had that problem with some Proto diesels (FA2s in particular) - so I cut that pin off. It's on the same principle as the pilot shorting out (that reminds me of an old Model Power sharknose that sat just a bit low - the pilot occasionally rubbed on the rails making a horrendous screeching noise). Hope this helps.
Thanks guys, for the advice. As I (kinda) suspected, it was/is the pilot. I removed it, and the loco ran perfectly. So I insulated the pilot assembly from the loco frame with a thin piece of plastic, sandwiched between the pilot deck and frame; I also used a plastic screw to re-attach everything. It nows runs like a (54 year old) champ! Mark in Oregon
Easy, below the reply text box you see 3 buttons. Click the upload a file one. A option box will come up. Just choose where the picture is then click upload. You then get the option to post as a thumbnail or a full size picture. Then you post your reply. Thanks,
Sounds like it'd be better to unsolder the pilot and raise it instead of only the plastic insert. Because if it was low enough on one end to short out on a rail, whole thing sounds like it's too low altogether, especially if it is now a tad crooked..btw, I still have an Akane 'Ma & Pa' 2-8-0 my dad bought me in about 1957 in NYC.. What's odd though is, It looks exactly like a PFM (or another Japanese import) except that the other is really detailed well and mine is a very simplified issue. I do remember that it did run great and probably still does. But I ain't about to add a decoder and speaker to it, and likely have to have the flanges grinded down for today's code 70 and 83 rail...M
