1. rray

    rray Staff Member

    6,479
    1,169
    93

    He had the CN, BN, and another Canadian style.
     
    Kurt Moose likes this.
  2. shortpainter

    shortpainter TrainBoard Member

    184
    594
    12
    The only surface prep needed is to file down any outstanding print lines and then wash with dish detergent to remove any oil. The best primer is any "self-etching primer" you can find. They are pricey but worth it. The cure time is quite long at three to seven days but you can start painting over it with your acrylics within a few hours. All my locos are brush painted with Testor's Model Master acrylics followed by the thinnest possible coat of Vallejo Gloss Varnish for areas needing decals. Then I use Krylon Color Master Flat Crystal Clear to seal it all in. I've tried all the spray can flat coats and the Krylon goes on smoothest. Broad sweeping sprays while rotating the model works best. Just don't over do it.
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2019
    Kurt Moose and bostonjim like this.
  3. husafreak

    husafreak TrainBoard Member

    295
    166
    5
    I have never heard of “self etching primer” so I will look for that now. Everything else I am familiar with, thank you.
     
    shortpainter likes this.
  4. husafreak

    husafreak TrainBoard Member

    295
    166
    5
    Rustoleum has self etching primer.
     
    bostonjim and shortpainter like this.
  5. shortpainter

    shortpainter TrainBoard Member

    184
    594
    12
    That is the one I used. It did the trick, for sure. Happy modeling!
     
  6. rray

    rray Staff Member

    6,479
    1,169
    93
    Don't the oldschool toothbrush and vinegar before primer work on this brass?
     
  7. shortpainter

    shortpainter TrainBoard Member

    184
    594
    12
    Sure. I imagine anything that removes oil and doesn't leave any residue is a valid technique.
     
  8. ZFRANK

    ZFRANK TrainBoard Member

    893
    421
    23
    That is what I did too, and after drying Tamiya primer from a spray can.

    Verstuurd vanaf mijn ANE-LX1 met Tapatalk
     
    bostonjim likes this.
  9. southernnscale

    southernnscale TrainBoard Supporter

    414
    705
    17
    I was just wondering if a small sandblaster could be designed using the silk like sand it is really fine and could be used for these small brass shells. I done sand blasting in the real world. but don't know if there is a small enough nozzle for a small sand blaster! Just a thought!
     
  10. rray

    rray Staff Member

    6,479
    1,169
    93
    They have a hobby sized sandblaster kit called an Air Eraser that uses baking soda as the blast media. It is essential that you use a moisture trap or water seperator with the Air Eraser or the clog up quick.
     
    southernnscale likes this.
  11. southernnscale

    southernnscale TrainBoard Supporter

    414
    705
    17
    I didn't know this! something to look up. I wonder how good it would work on brass.
     
  12. rray

    rray Staff Member

    6,479
    1,169
    93
    The kit cost $30 at Harbor Freight, and you can always use their 20% off coupon. It comes with Aluminum Oxide abrasive. You can use Baking Soda, and Diatomaceous Earth for finer grits. It's messy, do it on the patio and wear a dust filter. It works on brass and anything really, it's a mini sand blaster. It uses lots of air, so you need a canister compressor. Every so often the tip cloggs due to moisture getting in, just hold your finger over the tip, and press the trigger for a fraction of a second to backblow it clean.

    Ther are lots of videos out there showing the air erasers in action.
     
    Kurt Moose and bostonjim like this.
  13. Curn

    Curn TrainBoard Member

    661
    260
    25
    Like Rob said, wear a mask. You really don’t want to breath aluminum oxide or diatomaceous earth. If you have to work inside, place plastic wrap over your airbrush booth. You could even add gloves and have a pretty decent micro blasting cabinet.
     
    bostonjim likes this.
  14. rray

    rray Staff Member

    6,479
    1,169
    93
    Also, wear safety glasses, Obvious, but forget them and get a bounceback into you eyes will cost you time under the water faucet or worse.
     
  15. minzemaennchen

    minzemaennchen TrainBoard Member

    1,463
    306
    28
    I use air eraser for years to prepare surfaces for brass and nickel-silver
     
  16. shortpainter

    shortpainter TrainBoard Member

    184
    594
    12
    There were goodies in the mail today.

    IMG_1614.jpg
     
    minzemaennchen, Kurt Moose and ZFRANK like this.
  17. rray

    rray Staff Member

    6,479
    1,169
    93
    Are they S2 handrails? I keep looking and see them as "Sold Out" still.
     
    ZFRANK likes this.
  18. shortpainter

    shortpainter TrainBoard Member

    184
    594
    12
    Item counters were broken. Not sure what happened. To get the right stock numbers I had to hit the refresh button on my web browser like it was 1996. If it persists I’ll contact the developer.
     
    ZFRANK likes this.
  19. John Bartolotto

    John Bartolotto TrainBoard Supporter

    1,227
    263
    29
    Rudy, That is one well laid out website. Well done!

    John
     
  20. southernnscale

    southernnscale TrainBoard Supporter

    414
    705
    17
    Well I checked them out and got Master Air eraser. It uses Aluminum Oxide come with 150g I already had a airbrush sprayer with small compresser got everything in the photo Now to build and set up a box so I don't have to chase little particles around and contain them to a bottom tray and may be reuse material! I was also thinking of trying it out with a lower pressure to do some plastic parts. to get to some of those hard to get areas. I also came with inline filter water trap!
    IMG_5907.JPG !
     
    bostonjim and minzemaennchen like this.

Share This Page