May 28, 2019
He had the CN, BN, and another Canadian style.
The only surface prep needed is to file down any outstanding print lines and then wash with dish detergent to remove any oil. The best primer is any "self-etching primer" you can find. They are pricey but worth it. The cure time is quite long at three to seven days but you can start painting over it with your acrylics within a few hours. All my locos are brush painted with Testor's Model Master acrylics followed by the thinnest possible coat of Vallejo Gloss Varnish for areas needing decals. Then I use Krylon Color Master Flat Crystal Clear to seal it all in. I've tried all the spray can flat coats and the Krylon goes on smoothest. Broad sweeping sprays while rotating the model works best. Just don't over do it.
I have never heard of “self etching primer” so I will look for that now. Everything else I am familiar with, thank you.
Rustoleum has self etching primer.
That is the one I used. It did the trick, for sure. Happy modeling!
Don't the oldschool toothbrush and vinegar before primer work on this brass?
Sure. I imagine anything that removes oil and doesn't leave any residue is a valid technique.
That is what I did too, and after drying Tamiya primer from a spray can.
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I was just wondering if a small sandblaster could be designed using the silk like sand it is really fine and could be used for these small brass shells. I done sand blasting in the real world. but don't know if there is a small enough nozzle for a small sand blaster! Just a thought!
They have a hobby sized sandblaster kit called an Air Eraser that uses baking soda as the blast media. It is essential that you use a moisture trap or water seperator with the Air Eraser or the clog up quick.
I didn't know this! something to look up. I wonder how good it would work on brass.
The kit cost $30 at Harbor Freight, and you can always use their 20% off coupon. It comes with Aluminum Oxide abrasive. You can use Baking Soda, and Diatomaceous Earth for finer grits. It's messy, do it on the patio and wear a dust filter. It works on brass and anything really, it's a mini sand blaster. It uses lots of air, so you need a canister compressor. Every so often the tip cloggs due to moisture getting in, just hold your finger over the tip, and press the trigger for a fraction of a second to backblow it clean.
Ther are lots of videos out there showing the air erasers in action.
Like Rob said, wear a mask. You really don’t want to breath aluminum oxide or diatomaceous earth. If you have to work inside, place plastic wrap over your airbrush booth. You could even add gloves and have a pretty decent micro blasting cabinet.
Also, wear safety glasses, Obvious, but forget them and get a bounceback into you eyes will cost you time under the water faucet or worse.
I use air eraser for years to prepare surfaces for brass and nickel-silver
There were goodies in the mail today.
Are they S2 handrails? I keep looking and see them as "Sold Out" still.
Item counters were broken. Not sure what happened. To get the right stock numbers I had to hit the refresh button on my web browser like it was 1996. If it persists I’ll contact the developer.
Rudy, That is one well laid out website. Well done!
Well I checked them out and got Master Air eraser. It uses Aluminum Oxide come with 150g I already had a airbrush sprayer with small compresser got everything in the photo Now to build and set up a box so I don't have to chase little particles around and contain them to a bottom tray and may be reuse material! I was also thinking of trying it out with a lower pressure to do some plastic parts. to get to some of those hard to get areas. I also came with inline filter water trap!