Ok Guys Anyone have any tips on using this software???? This is what I came up with on my first try. lighting needs to be looked at or am I missing something with this software???
Your second photo looks really good. Nice scene! I have had the trial version of Helicon more than 30 days, and nothing has happened, but I wonder too, if it will just not open, or will a beg notice show up when it expires. I like the program and all, but I don't think I'd buy it.
Lighting could be an issue...something Rich Yourstone mentioned , I believe in NSR....he used something to deflect some of the direct / harsh lighting effects...also...what kind of digi cam are you using?
Nice photo, Mike! Rich Yourstone covers a lot of tips in the latest issue of NSR. I just got my PC emulator and Helicon yesterday. I think Rich said it works better at f/8 or so than f/22. Besides lenses are usually sharper at an intermediate stop than at either extreme. Also he pointed out that the close focus shots have to be pretty close together, as depth of field diminishes as the subject gets closer. Lighting can be an issue, as you do have to light a much "longer" scene.
Pete: Thanks for the added tips using the Helicon Focus software package. I read the article by Rich Yourstone and will try out some of your helpful hints when I get back to Florida midweek. Stay cool and run steam.....
Don't move the camera whn changing focus. No need to overlight. Both of the above are Lessons Learned brought to you courtesy of the proud owner and operator of the Lessons Learned Line
Nice shot mark!!!! on my next try I will do without the extra light. Did you buy the software or is that what will happen to my pictures after the 30 days????
Here's Jeanne's ballpark on the layout: This took only three images. From Railimages: [ January 16, 2006, 10:20 PM: Message edited by: Pete Nolan ]
Nolan- Stick to ships, let your wife do the rest. Looks great. Mike- What I have discovered is that as little as a puny double two foot flourescent overhead provides too much light for my camera. For macro or regular work, I set the exposure length to automatic without flash and use either an infrared trigger or set the camera for a timed shot (when battery on infrared not working). It will keep the shutter open anywhere from 1/2 to 4 seconds. I will be playing with the exposure length a bit, too, since it sometimes brings out white too much. Here is the info on the below picture, for example- ( I was not aware this feature was available at Railimages until a few days ago) File size : 2962412 bytes File date : 2006:01:02 18:39:56 Camera make : NIKON CORPORATION Camera model : NIKON D70s Date/Time : 2006:01:02 18:18:41 Resolution : 3008 x 2000 Flash used : No Focal length : 60.0mm (35mm equivalent: 90mm) Exposure time : 4.000 s Aperture : f/36.0 Whitebalance : Auto Metering Mode : matrix Exposure : aperture priority (semi-auto) I know I got a bit far afield with this post since it has nothing to do with Helicon, but I wish more people would visit and post at our Photography and Trains section here at Trainboard.
Nice shots, guys! I bought the software after giving it an initial trial, and am very pleased with its results. I have made about a dozen exposures with it so far. I've spent about 20 hours this weekend working with it, and here are some lessons learned (some of which Rich may have passed along too): - The more exposures, the better - especially for deep scenes. A few of my 8-foot deep scenes were made from 22 or 24 exposures. - Any camera movement will kill the razor-sharp focus...a tripod is a must. This becomes rather challenging when shooting low-angle right on the layout. I use a rerailing tool and post-it notes to shim the lens and camera body so it is absolutely solid on the layout. One hand presses the camera down so it doesn't pan from side to side, the other manipulates the focus and shutter. - Some objects will get artifacts around them as a by-product of HF's algorighms, particularly if the objects are dark or rounded. Rich mentioned this as well. You can try more light, or bouncing light with a white card. Changing angles often helps with this. - Use aperture priority and the smallest aperture available...even with HF, we need all the help we can get in macro mode! - Use lots of light, with consistent shadows in the subject (or sunlight if you have a module!). - Try, try again...I probably burned 300 exposures to get six finished photos. I take proofs in regular mode first to check the scene and composition. - Occasionally, one exposure can introduce a problem to the final image that is evident as the software processes each file. Watch closely as the software moves through the files...sometimes you can de-select one file and save the overall image. - Have fun - this is an amazing way to portray our trains with realism that was never possible until now!
I got artifacts on the depth charges of my destroyer when I shot from the stern, and could see the ends. I'm still playing--in fact, I'm having a blast! HF allows the type of shots I've been trying to do for years. Like Rich Yourstone, I was patching two or three images together manually--a LOT of work. The 12-24mm zoom is just to big in diameter for effective low angle shots. I think I'll try Rich's mirror trick.
