My printer arrived this afternoon and I set it up after work. All went together rather smoothly but (yes there always seems to be a but) when auto leveling the bed my x axis over travels and takes readings off the board on my left side, I believe I am looking at the x minus position. I am not sure how to correct this. It over travels by at least an inch. [
Is the x-limit switch working properly and/or does your x motor grind when homing? When doing the auto-level does the print head land properly on the button behind the flex plate? Or is that also an inch off? Hopefully this is an easy fix.
OK, this shouldn't be too hard to correct. The X is definitely over traveling and taking ghost readings on the left side. The printer is running smooth with no noises other than the fan hum. The nozzle was landing on the pads fine, but I made a slight x and y adjustment by simply eyeballing where the nozzle was positioned off the corner of the plates home position, then I reran auto level and noticed that the nozzle was then missing the pads in the back, so I recentered by eyeballing the nozzle again, but this time off the center of the back pad. This worked fine for getting the nozzle to retouch off the pads, but my x was still over traveling.
A slight update: I was taking a very close look at the problem this morning after my first cup of strong coffee and I noticed that, yes, the nozzle over travels in x but the censor that takes the reading is still over the bed and positioned approximately where it reads in the x plus y minus position. So, even though the nozzle is over the bed, the censor still is on the table. This appears to be accurate and a simple mistake I made last night before bed. Any thoughts folks?
The mesh leveling phase really only focuses on that sensor on the print head (not the nozzle) as it maps out any contours of the print bed. So in that regard I suppose the nozzle position doesn't matter during that phase. And if the nozzle hovers over the button and silicone pad in the back it seems like the printer does know where things are. The nozzle position is important for that phase, as that button helps it determine how far away the nozzle is when the sensor triggers - setting the z offset. Have you tried a print yet to see what happens after leveling? Things may just be okay after all? There should be a couple test models on the supplied micro-SD card that are already sliced so you can see how she prints. Mike
I just looked at the price on that thing... it's insanely inexpensive... even in Canadian dollars. It's like holding back those three cups of coffee riding a bus with a bad suspension... I wonder how long I can resist...
How interesting. It reminds me of the computer controlled CNC mills I ran/programed as a machinist and the CNC measuring machines when I was a Quality Assurance Tech. I would love to have one.
Mike, the nozzle is landing center on back censor and my probe reads the table all the way around. I looked at some YouTube videos of the auto leveling in progress, and it was exactly as mine. It was my mistake, as I was just tracking the nozzle on the first leveling run. I haven't printed anything yet because my filament is not yet here, although I do have a small roll that was included with the Kobra 2. I will most likely print sometime this weekend.
Yes, exactly. I have been machining most of my adult life, I figured 3D printing should be something I could learn with a little practice. If you ran Fanuc controlled mills such as a Haas, you will find the G coding the same, the slicing is a new process, but it looks to be very straight forward,
Awesome - looks like you'll be good to go then! And yeah if you're familiar with (and not intimidated by) CNC then 3D printing is an easy transition in my opinion. A lot less messy than chips and swarf, too.
GOOD GRIEF MAN! This printer has just lost complete power. Seems like a fuse problem, I am really not sure. I have just contacted Anycubic for advise on moving forward.
Did they ship it with the power switch set at 230V perhaps? That could cause power loss (won't harm it, just won't give it the juice it's expecting) Also, just found this page on the Anycubic site: https://www.anycubic.com/blogs/3d-printing-guides/fix-your-printer-not-turning-on
No, power was and is set right. I checked everything before powering up. The printer just failed. I am thinking the power supply has failed. I sent a work order to Anycubic, now it's a matter of time for a reply. I made a print and a half before the printer died. Thanks for the link.
Ouch! If there's something that shouldn't be skimped on, it's the power supply. If it's designed to be running at close to capacity, it'll fry either because of an overload or insufficient heat dissipation. Costs can be cut by using capacitors that have max working voltages barely higher than the actual voltage used. Tantalum capacitors fail unpredictably - even if carefully chosen - and when they do, they flame up like little blowtorches; I've seen some burn a hole right through a printed circuit board. Not bad for a component the size of a sunflower seed. Diodes and other semiconductors in the power supply can also fry easily if margins are too close.
I have eliminated the fuse as a problem, and I know the power was set right so the only things left are the power supply or the motherboard. Either way, the fix should be on any Anycubics dime. I had the printer for less than a week.
It looks like the power supply. I broke out my meter and gave her a go. No power coming from the supply.
That's a hard zero. I'm thinking hard short across the output somewhere, filter capacitor or clamp diode. With an open circuit, you'd be measuring at least some ambient noise with your last digit changing by one unit. Unplugged from the mains, try measuring across the same points in ohmmeter mode.
