While it is a bit of an investment upfront, the results can really spoil you they're so good. I still get a kick out of seeing even a light piece of rolling stock pushed over a turnout after construction as it can be hard to tell it's rolling over any gaps in the track, it's that smooth. John Ztrains.com
John has said it, pricey up front for first turnout, but then they get cheaper, the more you build and once you have used them you will find, if you are good at soldering and have the tools for shaping points and frog, they are smoothest of anything I have ever. I went with code 40 rail so they look great as well. The tie sticks really make it easy to get good results immediately along with copper clad ties. So you can one stop shop for all the bits you need to start construction, I went with a pair left and right no 6.
Watch the tutorial videos. Make sure the you pay attention to which PC board ties have gaps in them. Make sure you dont cut deep into the PC board ties or you will weaken them. CLEAN the PC board ties so the solder FREELY flows on them. You a flux pen helps too. CLEAN the rail (can have trace oils on them). Simple spray Electronics cleaner or Acetone or Alcohol. Use 2% Silver bearing solder to make a stronger joint than 60/40 Lead/Tin (Pb/Sn). DONT use Lead Free solder, it is even weaker than classic 60/40 Lead/Tin. You can get it at Radio Shack, part number 64-035. It also is a better small size, .015". Simple internet search will turn up many sources. On the Point rails that bend to form half the Frog, mark the exact location that they bend then, file a V notch on BOTH sides of the rail base. This lets you get a much more sharp bend for the Frog. This makes for a MUCH shorter gap at the Frog where you put the other 2 "V" rails into it. File away the rail base on both sides of the Point rail, about 1/4", near the last place you solder them down (Points end side). This allows them to more easily flex. Cobalt's DCP-CB1, equivalent of the Tortoise, make a much smaller drive for them. http://www.dccconcepts.com/index_files/Cobalt_turnout_motor.htm. You can also do manual remote control with a BluePoint http://ppw-aline.com/Blue_Point_Manual_Turnout_Control.htm or local with a Caboose Industries 206 manual Ground Throw http://www.cabooseind.com/GroundThrows
Thanks for all the advise, I'll pick up a left and right #6 kit and check it out. Looks like fun at least the first couple of them.
Lots of good advice Jeff. Question...If a person were to make these, would he need to test just about every loco type to insure that the turnouts would accommodate all locos, or if they are built to exacting parameters according to instructions would most locos be expected to negotiate the turnout without issues? I'm wondering how the Big Boy and Challenger do with a #6 turnout?
The main things about compatibility (speaking as an N scaler) are the flange depth, and how far the flanges are from each other. For instance, my Atlas H24-66 had the wheels as wide as NMRA specs would allow, and consequently the flanges were closer to each other than anything else. That would cause binding going through the frogs and guardrails. Having a 'difficult' truck that you can try to roll freely through the turnout is a good test.
Loren, there is very poor tolerance using the jigs. While they may help locate the rail base, it is difficult to bend the rail uniformly, build that frog with proper alignment and also place the guard rails. There is some slop. NZT's or the NMRA's Nn3 track gauge will help you verify. The Big Boy will run through the normal Z turnouts, maybe not every time, but run through them. With the Z scale's radius turnout at 493mm. nearly 2.5 times more radius than the 195/220, it would appear to be ideal. Its a combination of not transitions (straight to curve to straight) and all the bumps, dips and nudges going thru it. A #6 is about the same.
