Folks, I did find this info after a long roundabout search (actually by chance) and before I got a chance to write the part # down, I lost my internet. Now I have no idea where the thread was. Would someone please direct me to the part number of the Athearn geared drive axle/wheelset that is a direct drop-in replacement for Proto 2000 diesels? I would be forever in your debt (me and the search function here to not get along!) Thanks!
You mean this thread? http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?97098-Walther-s-Life-like-Proto-CRACKED-AXLES!! The stock number is 9 posts down. Other posters have mentioned scavenging geared axles from other Athearn diesels, such as the SDP40 and F7 (both "blue-box" engines). I found this post in the "similar threads" box just below this thread........... Hope this helps- if it does, let us know, as I have a few P2K diesels as well.
Without reading the linked thread; I'll risk redundancy .. After encountering my first, "P2K axle", years ago.. I just (per research) scavenged an old Athearn SD40. It worked just fine, but I had/have many P2K locos, so scavenged axles was not the answer. My LHS stocks just the Athearn axle gears, just for this purpose. Even if they didn't stock them, you can just ask them to add a few sets to their next Walthers shipment, to avoid paying shipping.. It's an inexpensive fix, as opposed to complete, Athearn wheel-sets , and allows you to re-use the better, P2K wheels (I think they're a better alloy than the Athearns). Removing the axles is easy enough. You only need turn it upside-down and remove the retaining clip/cover that runs the length of the truck-bottom, and they come out nicely. Pulling the axle halves out of the gear is easy too (be sure to keep an eye on the the little, brass bushings).. After making sure the bushings are in place, press (this takes practice) the axle-halves into the new gear. The only tricky part, is to get the gear relatively centered, AND have the wheels at proper gauge (more practice).. Drop them back into the truck.. making sure the bushings fit nicely into their notches, and the axle-gear meshes with the other gears.. snap the cover back on and you're done..
Can someone please post the Athearn part number for their geared wheel sets. Can't find it in the old posts & have used up my axle supply from old BO Athearn locos.
Here's a Youtube.. He doesn't talk much about getting the gear relatively centered (this keeps the bushings from slipping out of their notches), but he does touch on getting the wheels in gauge.. Also, I'd use use grease instead of oil on the gears.. aside from getting where you don't want it to be, oil can accumulate at the truck pivot, and that's where the frame gets its electrical connection, causing poor running over points where the truck might pitch, up or down (elevation changes). Of course you can bypass the pivots electrically by soldering wires from each truck, to the frame (or to the decoder).. but that's another topic.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6rICPsxQbY&feature=results_video&playnext=1&list=PL5A66B1D3EC9D678B
60024 LOCO DRIVE AXLE GEAR -(USED IN CURRENT PRODUCTION LOCOMOTIVES) 6 $2.25http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=ATH60024
Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for! These are for a P2K FA2. it doesn't have cracked axles (yet!) but I prefer the nickle silver finish on the Athearn wheels to what's on the P2K now. I also like to trade out the plastic wheel sets on my Athearn dummy locos with them. Back to the P2K FA2: I want to put the Athearn wheelsets in: it's running fine, but the wheels are sparking over a turnout. The wheels look black, they don't shine up either - they are a blackened metal. None of my other P2K locos have wheels black like this, they are all shiny.
FYI - the Athearn drive axle assy., which includes the wheels/axles/brass bearing blocks and gear, is out of stock everywhere. Athearn says it is due in January 2012. This is the 40" wheel version (#40028). There is also a 42" version (#40029) that is in stock, but it is the 40" one that I am looking for. BTW, this part # supersedes the old BB part #40019.
The old blue-box Athearns have sintered-metal wheels, which are going to look dark. They seem to pick up crud easily, and sound like they need a good cleaning. If you clean both the wheels and the track, you should be in good shape. For cleaning the wheels, I've used tuner cleaner sprayed on a paper towel, placed on the track, and one truck on the towel & the other on the rails. Turn the power on low, let the wheels roll, then do the same for the other truck (using a fresh spot & freshly-applied tuner cleaner). Should solve the problem of sparking. Those other wheels are nickel-silver, which obviously acounts for their shininess. Since the Athearn wheelsets are back-ordered, your only other option may be to cannibalize them from a blue-box Athearn (with, say, a too-wide hood shell), or from a spare chassis or power truck assembly. I have quite a few "roundhouse queens" who have given their lives, if not also their innards, to the better-running of my motive power & rolling stock. Some of the real railroads do or have done the same (if ya don't believe me, check out the battery box covers or hood doors on locomotives trackside, and see if ya don't see some with a different color here & there), so you're only following prototype.
Thanks friscobob, I do have a few of those Athearn wheelsets "available" sitting around here on on dummy loco or two that I can use now. BTW, isn't it amazing how certain parts will become scarce or unavailable, based on your need for them? The LHS had a bag of those very wheelsets hanging on his rack for the past year, now when I want them they are out of stock LOL.
So the new Athearn Wheelsets are nickel silver? Thanks. I know the old Blue Box are steel or something else.
AND the wheelsets are once again available, after being out of stock when I was looking for them a few months ago. Both 40" and 42" sizes.
I've done the gear replacement on a couple engines, Most Recently a Proto 2000 GP7. Using the Athearn gears and keeping the original wheels and bushings. Its quite simple and only takes a few min. No tools required, just twist the wheels out of the old gear (they almost fall out cause of the cracks) and twist and press them back into the new ones after cleaning everything. The hardest part is re gauging the wheels keeping equal space on both sides of the gear. But again, not very hard. Then just lightly re-grease and pop back into your trucks.
