Athearn Blue Box SD40T-2 Snoot Steel Handrails and Smokey Valley

Flash Blackman May 17, 2012

  1. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman TrainBoard Member

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    I have a Kodachrome SD40T-2 snoot and was hoping to improve the standard steel handrails. It appears that the newer plastic Athearn SD40-2 handrails will not fit as the tunnel motor blower duct is about two feet longer than the SD40-2.

    Anyone have any ideas on an improvement to the steel handrails? I may have to make my own or just go with the steel handrails.

    Thanks.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: May 17, 2012
  2. 2slim

    2slim TrainBoard Member

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    Flash,
    I checked Athearn's website and they show these in the parts section,
    http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ATH91579
    They are for the SD45T-2. Failing that perhaps contact them and see if a set of plastic handrails are available for the 40-2T's as they have been retooled.

    Many old schoolers in my area wouldn't give you 2 cents for the plastic handrails, (especailly if you handle them alot).
    There are Smokey Valley sets but they too are flimsy. I had a set of them and while they look nice, they bend like mad when you look at them. Just My Observation.

    2slim
     
  3. 2slim

    2slim TrainBoard Member

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    Flash,
    I checked Athearn's website and they show these in the parts section,
    http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ATH91579
    They are for the SD45T-2. Failing that perhaps contact them and see if a set of plastic handrails are available for the 40-2T's as they have been retooled.

    Many old schoolers in my area wouldn't give you 2 cents for the plastic handrails, (especailly if you handle them alot).
    There are Smokey Valley sets but they too are flimsy. I had a set of them and while they look nice, they bend like mad when you look at them. Just My Observation.

    2slim
     
  4. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman TrainBoard Member

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    The SD45T-2 wouldn't (or shouldn't) work as it is not a snoot nose. But just calling them about an SD40T-2 set is a good idea.
     
  5. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman TrainBoard Member

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    I decided to go ahead with the steel handrails. They don't look too bad and they are really strong after they are installed. I was surprised at how solid they were. This engine will be run often at the club, so maybe steel is the best thing.

    Here are the rear handrails after gluing and painting. I added the corner stantion as per the prototype; Athearn only provides the four center stanchions.
    [​IMG]

    Here is a side railing before the stanchions are glued to the horizontal rail. The bottom of the stanchion is pretty firm in the frame so I don't glue that.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: May 18, 2012
  6. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman TrainBoard Member

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    I am now installing my first set of Smokey Valley Handrails and will probably need some help. Hope they are not too flimsy. Photos for a start. Why don't you solder these in place instead of CA glue?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Alan

    Alan Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Are those stanchions brass? If so, I would definitely solder them.
     
  8. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman TrainBoard Member

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    Alan:

    I think they are brass. I am going to run a test with the brass runner that they came on.

    While I have you here...

    The instructions state, "To finish the railings you need to make the stanchions with flanged heads." What is a flanged head on a stanchion. The pieces are clear plastic and you glue them in place as the final step. As far as I can tell, they don't hold anything in place; it's just cosmetic.
     
  9. Alan

    Alan Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    I think Matt would be a better person to ask, he has just acquired some SV handrails I think. Will ask him to take a look.

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using tapatalk 4 beta
     
  10. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman TrainBoard Member

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    Whatever they are they won't take solder. I will have to use CA.
     
  11. StickyMonk

    StickyMonk TrainBoard Member

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    I have not used SV handrails for a few years, the stanchions are lost wax brass castings and will need to be cleaned with fine wet and dry before they will solder, I would recommend you rub the wire as well with the wet and dry, I also used solder paint for these as cleaning any excess solder up can be a major pain.
     
  12. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman TrainBoard Member

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    You are correct about cleaning them up. I just went with the CA glue. I reversed the front and rear handrail set, thus the bend in the rear handrail going down to the side steps. Therefore, I had to reform the front handrails to create the bend. I added the extra stanchion on the side and I did solder it. I am pretty good at the end rails now that I have no more to do. It was instructive. If you have a set of these try to get the rail formed as closely as you can before attaching it to the stanchions. I believe I could form the horizontal part of the end rail better than Smokey Valley.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman TrainBoard Member

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    Right side complete. Very tedious.

    [​IMG]

    I would say that these should be called "Smokey Valley Stanchions" as I have reformed all the horizontal rails from .015 inch brass wire. The stanchions are wonderfully detailed! Just amazing detail on both the front and back. I do hope it is a little sturdy.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 25, 2013
  14. Alan

    Alan Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    The stanchions look really good - must be well worth the effort. :)
     

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