Atlas Flex Track?

I'm laying the track for my new layout. This is the first time that I have used flex track. How is the best way to join it with other track. Do you remove the first tie and use rail joiners or what?

 

I don't cut away the first tie. I use a sharp Xacto knife and cut the little things that hold the rail to the tie and the rail joiners slip between the rail and tie. This way you are not missing a tie. This works very well for me

 

I cut the first and second ties off, for one is that I have enough clearence to slide the whole rail jointer back onto the rail to make adjustments. And also aids in the nagging ever tormenting thought of a rough piece of track needing to be replaced..... The rail jopinter would have to be cut to remove that section of rail to be replaced. This aids in repairs...... Then once i'm done laying all the track I go back with all the ties I removed and cut off the simulated spikes and glue the ties back in place onto the roadbed... Voula.... Looks like you never removed any ties at all and aids in the repairs if needed...

 

I frequently had minor kinking problem on curves where tracks connected till a wise man taught me this: Lay the flex track on the curve and tack it down till about 6" from the end of piece-let last six inches straighten itself out-cut rail even, put on rail joiners and hook on next 3' piece, then solder the two pieces together at rail joiners. You'll need to trim off spike heads on a tie or two, but you will end up with as smooth a curve as if you were using one 6' piece of track. Curt

 

Laying track on a straight is relatively easy, and you can use your method just fine. The real trick is the curves. I recommend taking as many pieces as needed to go all the way around the turn (2 or 3) and lay them on a flat surface. Use a straight edge to make sure the two pieces are absolutely straight, then solder the rail joiners in place (soldering on the outside of the rails. File to a smooth finish. When you try to bend the track to shape, the rail joiners will move apart from each other (remember your basic geometry). This is just fine. Simply remove as many ties as needed to let the track go into it's new shape. Don't throw the ties away. Once you have the track glued or tacked down, take the ties you remeoved, and slice off the nubs that hold the rails. Apply a little wood glue to the bottom, and slide them back where they would have been. After the wood glue sets, apply a tiny drop of CA (super glue) to the outside of the rails at the tie. Now you will have a super-smooth curve, that you will never get by trying to solder on a curve. You can also use the same method of tie-replacement on all your joints, so you will never see the joints again. MOPAC 1

 

I have to gto with Curt. I've done it that way for years and haven't had a problem. On a curve, when at the section end, loosen the rail from 1-2 ties on the laid and new piece.Then 2-3 inches straightened out, cut even, slide on the joiners, solder, and continue laying your curve to the next joint. I have to really hunt to find my joints. Also, no replacing ties, etc. Cut the "spikes" on another tie or 2 and the joiner can be slid off one track if you need to replace it. If you've got a hard job, put a lazy man on it and you'll always end up knowing the easiest way to get it done.

Lynn

 

Well I have been putting down a lot of Atlas flex track lately. I remove the first set of ties and make sure the plastic is flush with the second tie. When you have to cut more that that make sure the rails are even at the ends or one end before you cut. If you have to put a section in on a curve, it is a little better if you can stagger the joints some. Not the easiest thing to do, but if you have some good track alignment gauges it is a lot easier. The track alignment gauges made by Ribbon Rail (you can order them from Caboose Hobbies in Denver, they talk model railroading there) certainly help immensley.

As for soldering the joints there are pros and cons. You can get that welded rail look and it is very help on a curve especially if you can't stagger the track very well. But if your layout is in a room that doesn't have good climate or humidity control, you can get "sun-kinks" just like the prototype. If I had to solder a joint. make sure there is room for a little bit of expansion/contraction at the next joint. Also a plus for soldering is that you get better electrical connections, but there are better ways.

Since I am installing DCC at same time. I am only using the Atlas rail joiners as a guide and to hold the track in alignment. I plan to run dropwires from every piece of track to a main bus-wire. This way I won't have to worry about poor electrical connections through the track.