1. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    I have heard that Atlas made an H0 scale FP7 long ago. I think it was a Roco product, perhaps imported by Atlas. Could someone give me an opinion on this engine? How does it compare to the Stewart Kato F7s? I will be using DCC so I presume I will be able to match the Atlas running characteristoics with the Kato speeds.

    How is the shell for detailing?

    Thanks.
     
  2. Mr. SP

    Mr. SP Passed away August 5, 2016 In Memoriam

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    Some years ago I bought four of the Atlas/Roco FP7 units. They ran very well. The four I had were custom painted and detailed for SP in Black Widow paint. The headlight in the door had to be added as the units came with just the single upper headlight.. Snowplow pilots had to be added as did the ice breaker bars on the roof.
    Intermountain has FP7's in several roads that are excellent too. The Intermountain units in Espee have the snowplow pilot already done.
    The Atlas/Roco units I had were ran with Athearn F7b units in a A-B-B-A set and were used on the model San Joaquin Daylight I had. The SJD was made up of Soho cars in Daylight paint. The four unit set ran very well together. I think if I'm remembering correctly the Atlas?Roco FP's came out about 1972 or 73.
     
  3. friscobob

    friscobob Staff Member

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    I have two of them- the second one was purchased at a train show in Oregon, and came without dynamic brakes and with a second headlight. This will become a Frisco unit someday.

    I don't have the newer F-units to compare to the Atlas/Roco, but based on my experience with the FP7 and the other Atlas/Roco engines (GP38s and GP40s) I have no beef with their running abilities. Detail-wise, the grab irons on the FP7 are cast-on, and need to be removed, but otherwise the shell looks good.

    The front cab windows look to be a bit narrow to me, and may need to be widened a bit with new window glass installed. The shell is fairly easy to drill holes into, so adding such accessories as lift rings, new grab irons, horns antennae, MU hoses, etc., shouldn't be too hard.

    I used Kadee number 7 couplers on my GP38s and GP40s, but I'm not sure what type of coupler you can use on the FP7s. May need to consult a Kadee coupler conversion guide on that.

    I have plans to run my FP7 with several passenger cars to model trains 709/710, the Meteor connection from MOnett, MO to Ft. Smith, AR and Paris, TX, so running with other diesels (for now) is not a big deal with me.
     
  4. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Thanks. This is exactly the information that I needed. Hope that I can get one detailed and running. I won one on ebay today and I really want to do the upgrade and kitbash things.
     
  5. river_eagle

    river_eagle TrainBoard Member

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    here's one I did years ago, super runner, decent detail, for molded on
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    and another one in MP colors
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 25, 2009
  6. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    This is a very smooth running engine. The detailing may be extensive. Here ia an Atlas FP7 on the left; Stewart F7A on the right:
    [​IMG]

    Atlas FP7 on the left; Stewart F7A on the right:
    [​IMG]

    The Kadee coupler conversion says to use a No. 37 on the Atlas (Austria) FP7. I can't find the no. 37 in the Walthers catalog. It seems they may have changed their nomenclature as Walthers only lists "30 series" couplers with different shank lengths. Can anyone help with the correct type coupler? I would like to have one even though I plan to run a plow when I can make the conversion.

    The Atlas has a 48 inch dynamic brake fan and Farr grills. Mine also has dual headlights. As was stated, the molded on details are pretty good.
     
  7. river_eagle

    river_eagle TrainBoard Member

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    kadee #37
    walthers#
    380-37 30 Series Magne-Matic(R) Couplers -- Medium (9/32") Underset Shank
     
  8. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Well! I know why this is such a great forum! Thanks for that quick answer. That helped me locate the no. 450 series, too.
     
  9. Larry777

    Larry777 TrainBoard Member

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    The Atlas-Roco loco is a good running engine. And they come quite cheap in price too. I've seen some on eBay that will be bid for as low as $25.00 or less. My only gripe with the details are the windshields and the bulbous looking number boards, which are way too large. Some years ago, a modeler grafted a Stewart nose onto an Atlas FP7 body, getting the good contour, windshield size and number boards of the Stewart but retaining the body shell, chasis and good running characteristics of the original loco. Although the seams at the bottom of the locomotives were slightly off (the Atlas locos were thicker), it appeared to be successful surgery. Seems to me it was illustrated in MR.

    Intermountain has an excellent FP7 but some roads are difficult to find and they can be quite pricey. I have several old Stewart shells around and I'm thinking of picking up a couple of Atlas FP7's and following that example.
     
  10. James Fitch

    James Fitch TrainBoard Member

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    I agree re: Atlas FP7. The front windows look a bit narrow and the number board boxes on the nose aren't the best. There are unsitely mold seams on the nose too. It's a dated mold compaired to anything in the last 10-15 years. I've wanted a Western Pacific FP7A for years but the Atlas version didn't look that good. The SP Black Window paint job shown above hides the flaws in the old Atlas FP7 pretty well tho. Then there are the Farr air grill, not rendered very well, even the Stewart molded on look better. I think it was Jim Six who did the grafting job of Stewart nose to Atlas body. The batten strip didn't match but the rest looked good.

    Tried to order a WP FP7 from intermounain but they were sold out. I think the second run has been delayed umpteen times and now my funds are gone with job layoff. Maybe the Genesis version will be better and I"ll just get one of those.
     
  11. Larry777

    Larry777 TrainBoard Member

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    I had the same thoughts. The Missouri Pacific FP7 looked pretty good too. In the meantime, I was trying to figure out that front coupler pocket design on the Atlas/Roco FP7. If one is not long on that kind of detail, then I guess it wouldn't matter. However, to me, it seemed ungainly or out of place... Since submitting the original post, I did manage to find a used FP7 and I'm going to perform an "Atlas-sectomy" on its' nose.

    The name "Six" does come to mind as the modeler who did that earlier grafting of the Stewart nose onto the Atlas frame and body. I think I've got the back issue somewhere....(I hope).
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 10, 2009
  12. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    It is bad. I think I am going with a plow. That will help the front coupler, but the rear coupler is bad, too. Doesn't appear it will close couple at all. Maybe you could use a non-Kadee "fake" coupler with a short shank to make it couple closer. I probably don't need for it to operate.
    I would really like to see those pictures. Should be a great project.

    I have a spare Stewart F3 shell. I also have Athearn glass. I was going to try to put that glass into the front windshield of the Atlas FP7. My Atlas FP7 is getting a decoder right now. I should have it back on Friday.
     
  13. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    I have the Atlas FP7 in hand right now. It is a really, really smooth runner. There is a lot of detailing to do which I don't mind but the biggest objection I have to the Atlas unit is the rear coupler and the distance between engines. I don't know how to solve that. I already have the shortest shank Kadee coupler I have ever seen in my life! I don't know where the previous owner got it, but it certainly is shorter than the recommended Kadee #37 or the shorter 1/4 inch 30 series coupler. The number boards are pretty bad, too.

    I looked at the Intermountain FP7s last night: 130 US$ is sounding better all the time.
     
  14. Paul Liddiard

    Paul Liddiard Staff Member

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    Flash:
    I wonder if you could put a drawbar between the FP7 and what ever was going to be behind it. Thei would be OK if you were running a FP7 A-B-B-A set then the first two could be drawbarred, and the rest have the KaDees.
    Just a thought.
    PHL
     
  15. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    I thought about this, but I have six units and I want to be able to run them in all configurations including running with hood units. So, I decided not to drawbar.

    I also considered a dummy coupler but I don't know what is available.

    Here is a picture of the rear coupler location. You can see the large "box" that sticks out about 3/16 inch. So, even with a dummy or a draw bar I am not sure how close I could get another unit. The rear truck is right up against the back of the shell.

    I have considered adding a diaphragm with some spacers to create an illusion.
    [​IMG]
     
  16. Mr. SP

    Mr. SP Passed away August 5, 2016 In Memoriam

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    I used Kadee #7 couplers on the rear of the Atlas FP7a that I have. The screw was put in where the Atlas pin was. Just tapped it for a 2-56 X 1/4 screw. Be sure to cement the Kadee coupler box together then install with the screw. A bit of filing will be required too. Have your coupler height gauge handy.
    Adding the Detail West plow #160 is a challenge. Lots of cuss and fit required.
     
  17. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Off topic: Here is an interesting compilation of the Kadee numbering system for couplers.

    Thanks for that. I just realized that no. 7 is the "shortest coupler in the world" installed on my engine. It does use the original Atlas "pin" mounting system. Maybe I should check into the 2-56 screw system for mounting. It seems it might be more secure.

    I started into that last night and I have it pretty well done as far as fitting. This morning I thought I had better start taking pictures. I just charged ahead and was surprised to see that it might work! One thing is trying to salvage the paint job. With all the modifying and detailing, that will be hard to do.

    BTW, there is an updated Espee Micro Scale "87-201" decal sheet. It is very good.
     
  18. Mr. SP

    Mr. SP Passed away August 5, 2016 In Memoriam

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    With some careful cutting along the top of the pilot it should be no problem saving the paint job. It was the frame modifications that were the most troublesome.
    Let's see your photos when you get them.
     
  19. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    I don't have any frame modifications as far as I can tell. I'm just removing the pilot and cutting the shell a lot to add the Details West plow. Here are the photos so far.

    Shell with plow removed:
    [​IMG]

    Plow with Kadee no. 450 coupler added. At least it came from a no. 450 coupler package.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Number boards being modified:
    [​IMG]

    The plow and coupler have the correct height. I have decided to remove part lines, drill holes for grabs, paint and decal the nose area before adding the plow. I felt this would minimize damage across the nose area.
     
  20. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Someone mentioned the narrow windshield appearance of the Atlas FP7. Notice anything different about this next picture? I had a spare Stewart glass so I cut and filed the Atlas FP7 on the left so the Stewart window would fit. Interesting, tedious process and a little over done. I hope to use Crystal Kleer and some Future floor polish to clean it up later. I do think it helps the appearance.
    [​IMG]

    The Atlas number boards are almost a scale foot too long, so I am carefully trying to shorten them. I'm just making them the same size as the Stewart number boards.
    [​IMG]

    Once I have all this cutting and rebuilding done, I will determine how I am going to do the paint retouching. Right now I think I will repaint the silver and cover all the "feathers" with black as I have a decal to replace those.

    Lift rings...must not forget lift rings and five chime horn.
     

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