I forgot to mention, that with RailCom, you no longer need a programming track. You can program on the main, with complete feedback/verification, while other locos stay on the main (even running) as you do it. And reading back even a decoder's entire DCC register contents via RailCom is FAST, and the loco doesn't (have to) move! Perhaps there is a reason why all the European DCC systems and decoders support RailCom... No more complex wiring, electrical switches, rail-gapping, etc. for a programming track on a siding of the layout. What could be simpler? Yes, a DCC-EX system is the most inexpensive DCC system available, and it has some awesome features! But it is NOT suitable for a beginner with little/no knowledge of electronics, loading software, etc.* If I compare plug-and-play, entry-level systems from Digitrax, NCE and TCS, they are all within ~$60 of each other (less than the cost of a DC loco.) But one system supports LCC and RailCom; the others do not. With it, avoiding programming a loco on the track when other locos are there, isn't "one of those things" newbies have to learn the hard way anymore. *I think the DCC-EX system is GREAT for users who know, or are ready to learn a little, about electronics, wiring, embedded software, etc., in an environment that lets them see the fruit of their labor first-hand: they get to run trains with it!
Thanks for the input Jake but I don't feel that is an accurate image of going with a DCC-EX command station at this point in time. You plug two boards together (3 if you want to spend $10 more and have WiFi). The only wiring basically is connecting the main and program track wiring like you have to do with any command station and plugging 2 cheap power-supplies in. You don't wire or solder any components. You don't have to understand anything about the components. If you want the WiFi option you plug in two jumpers between two of the boards. In the following video he builds the command station with the optional WiFi board in about 5 minutes. The video is older and he shows how you can (don't have to) load the software. You can now connect a USB cable between your computer and the Arduino (command station) and run the Auto-Installer and it does all the work for you. It will automatically find the correct version of the installer for your Computer and Operating system (Windows, Apple, Linux) and download it. The download is a self contained app that can automatically load the software from your computer to your Arduino or other supported board. Basically how you load any other program you buy or download off the internet. One doesn't need any electronics or computer knowledge if they are only interested in building and using a DCC-EX Command Station. DCC-EX has come a long ways in a short period of time and has a huge group of guys (usually over 150 logged into their Discord channel) working on it and adding features. I don't feel DCC-EX is a threat at all to the 'big boys' in fact I believe it will be beneficial to them. Most buyers are still going to want a system that comes in a pretty box and is well known. Also the more people that get into DCC via DCC-EX are going to be that many more people that will be buying locos, decoders and other DCC specific items that will come from the 'big boys' so they are going to make more in the long run I believe because DCC-EX has brought more modelers into the DCC side of the hobby. Sumner
That's a good video! Very clear and easy to follow. Still not convinced it makes a good choice for a beginning model railroader. In that video, I also see loose wires joined with alligator clips, waiting to disconnect or worse, short out as soon as anything is moved. I see unshrouded headers, exposed and ready to be bent, shorting out to who knows what. A loose pin, inserted in a socket, to mate with another socket. Not a strain-relief or an enclosure in sight. Sure, there are the right kinds of wires/terminations to make the connections correctly, and there are countless housings that should be able to protect it, and all sorts of other accessories to "button it up". After all, it is no longer being used for experimentation. It will be used for running trains. So the model railroader should be able to focus on running trains, finishing out the layout, etc., not keeping his command station running.
Thanks for viewing the video. There are a number of cases one can print, buy or build. I have one command station in the one above but the one I've used for the past couple years is on my test track that I roll around and it is connected to the main layout by one cable that allows it to be rolled in and out from under the main layout. No problems to this point and for most it wouldn't be too hard to mount the command station permanently to/under the layout in a protected way. There is no need to get to it except to maybe plug a USB cable to load the newest version of DCC-EX. I realize most people out there want something that comes in a nice box and you don't see those circuit boards but at this point I'm sure there are at least a couple thousand out there that are using DCC-EX and there will be more of us 'odd-balls' . There are over a couple hundred from all over the globe on Discord alone. Sumner
Did they ever get around to implementing suggestion I posted on their website, for an auto-reverse function on the secondary track output (in lieu of the programming track function?) I never heard anything about it, but it seems like it would be very useful, similarly to the Pi SPROG 3+ secondary track output.
Don't know maybe ask the question on the discord channel. I'm not sure if anyone other than Sprog has that feature? https://discord.com/invite/PuPnNMp8Qf I check in and out of there but there is way more going on there than what I know about or have the time to follow. For instance I think there might now be an option to program on the main (without loco feedback) and they have a 'join' command that makes the program track either the main or the programming track without having to throw an electrical switch. And they were also working on being able to run a DC loco (one with out DCC) on the layout at the same time but I never really looked into that. With such a large team they can go in many more directions than a commercial much smaller team can go in....good and bad at times. I actually haven't upgraded in a couple years to the newer versions of DCC-EX as the one on the command station is doing everything I need it to do. I do love the WiFi throttle much better than the phone throttle running EngineDriver. I think Sid was skeptical of that but believe he feels the same now. I mean a $50 throttle that I can't see much difference in than ones costing north of $200. Been interesting watching DCC-EX grow. Sumner
I think Andy has a point about dccex for newbie as im pretty raw at this stuff and know nothing about programming well almost nothing now. I think if a complete newbie to this is willing to try i do think they will be satisfied with the end results. they will have a good system and will have learned a lot and i do mean a LOT about soldering, programming , uploading different bits and pieces of the system.. ILL admit it was/is a challenge for me and at times i was pretty frustrated to the point of not wanting it no more. But as a newbie i find its all part of the process weather you buy a store brand dcc system like nce,digitrax or any other there is and always will be some kinda learning curve. for me i like cheap cause i dont have a lot of money to spend and i also like a challenge as well. IM very Happy i went this route i did. I learned quite a bit about this stuff. it was not easy for me and im still struggling but it is getting much better with much help from people here and other places . remember i have no schooling so im at the bottom of the brain pool and with help from many of you ive got a good reliable dcc system that im enjoying. Im still struggling with the pi4 but im getting much closer now. for any newbies reading this. i have both NCE power cab and dcc++ex systems NCE sits in a box has been there for couple years it worked pretty good but ive had problems with NCE as well and had to figger out what went wrong... I do think as a newbie if you are willing to learn then you too can build a system just for you and for little $$ if you shop around... I also think that most just want a plug n play system they don't want to put the effort in as with today's youngsters.
Sid I hope it is OK to clarify the above. First of all you came into DCC-EX a ways back in the early days when yes you needed to know and do way more than now ...................... but... Even then to set up a command station you never had to solder, at least I didn't and I came in before DCC-EX with DCC++. There also hasn't been actual programming (writing code) required. Yes you did have to upload more items from sites that can be confusing like GitHub so that was more challenging then for sure. For someone reading this and thinking I don't want to get into what it took to setup a DCC++ and then a DCC-EX command station back then just remember that is in the past. If you watch the video I posted about you can see you can put the command station (what you buy commercially if you go that route that makes the layout DCC) together in 5-10 minutes (no soldering). You can use the Auto-Installer to load the software onto the command station with a simple USB cable between your computer and the command station. No trying to download and install files from different web sites. Once the command station is connected to your lay (4 wires like about any command station) you can use a computer (monitor/keyboard) to control your trains, a phone throttle with a free app or a commercial wireless throttle (WiFi one). It you want to build your own $50 WiFi wireless throttle (WiTcontroller Throttle) like sid just did then yes the learning curve can go way up. You will need to fabricate, solder, download files from not so easy to use sites but you don't have to go this way at all to have a DCC-EX command station and DCC layout. Sid jumped in early and went through the early growing pains but those days are past and as he said he is better for it as he picked up new skills. Like most things in the hobby take it as far as you feel comfortable with. Sumner
seems its all getting easier to do now. which is fantastic. dccex has come a long ways. i still love my diy throttle and i love my new one even more than the other ( i have two one from sumners build and then my very own build which i like a lil better) .
Cool, let's see it.....did you design a new case or is it the one where you added the battery voltage display? Sumner
sumner basically its same as peters build .i designed new case (still have your case) i could not use his case cause i could not get a key board to fit. so i made my own... very simple and very basic,. but i seem to like it more. no fancy nothing...i had to remake the other throttle middle section as my power on/off slider button quit working, so its on the work bench..once i got used to the push buttons it works great. print files not so great but i like it. no way to tell how much battery is left either. every couple days i put it on the charger. 1100 mah battery inside
Nice, good work. I'm guessing you can update the esp32 with a USB cable on the bottom that is out of view. Sumner
I'll bet, kind of wondering why you went with them and not a keypad? The keypad is less expensive and for me has been more reliable than the buttons? I've had problems in the past with the cheap buttons. They are cheap enough that I replace the bad ones on go on. Seems to be sensitive to over heating during soldering. I try to get on and off them as quick as possible with the iron. Sumner
sumner thats all i had at the time was buttons. they have held up well so far. i keep my iron temp around 350 according to the dial. also on and off quickly with the solder. side note i finished the other throttle. I had to remake the middle part as my sliding on/off switch quit working. instead of blue an black now its blue an grey with a toggle switch.
I've been buying some items from Digi-Key. I use to not check them out as I figured they would be expensive. Found out they aren't. Just got speakers for my sound installs and they are .90 cents each. The keypads are $5. I also liked that their shipping on items that weren't heavy was $4.95 and they were fast filling the order. The last order though the shipping went to $6.95 so still not bad. 10 speakers with shipping $16.60. I've been getting electrical parts that are hard to find on Amazon or eBay like special capacitors that will fit in an N scale engine and the speakers. I did look at their button switches but looked like the ones that might be a better quality than the China ones we are using were quite a bit more and the cheap ones looked to be exactly the same button switch. You might give them a look for some things. Sumner
For supercaps look at Tayda Electronics. Good selection, ships from Colorado. Low cost, and low shipping costs also.
You know, I got to thinking (I know; "Uh, oh, there he goes again!") about just the analog capabilities of DCC EX. There are so many model railroaders with large fleets of DC locomotives, running on their blocked DC layouts, that have neither the interest nor the cash to convert their fleet and layout to DCC. DCC-EX's analog capabilities just might be a great solution for these traditional, blocked DC layouts, giving their owners/users the benefits of WiFi DCC throttles/apps, with minimal wiring changes, and NO changes to their locomotives. Can DCC-EX "slave" two or more analog PWM outputs together on one throttle in Wi Throttle, Engine Driver, etc.? I'm sure some analog model railroaders would love to have the convenience of managing blocks and trains on their layouts with DCC-EX and Wi-Throttle (iOS) or Engine Driver (Android) on their phone. Note that the PWM frequency and phase for two+ outputs need to be tied together to one virtual throttle, so that they don't short out when a loco bridges the boundary between adjacent blocks that are logically tied together to one throttle in DCC EX. Otherwise, if the two or more outputs cannot be locked together in PWM phase and frequency, you would need LC filters on each PWM output, before tying them together, to completely filter out the AC portions of the otherwise DC outputs. DC motors do a fine job of filtering out the AC components of PWM DC driving voltage/current for themselves. But tying two independent PWM DC outputs together that are not very-well-aligned WRT pulse phase and period/frequency will create short-circuit overcurrent conditions, and shut down the outputs.
You will find a complete description on locoduino.org to build your own Railcom system : https://www.locoduino.org/spip.php?article334
