Benchwork choices: too many to choose from!!

HemiAdda2d Feb 12, 2001

  1. HemiAdda2d

    HemiAdda2d Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    I wil be building an around-the-basement-walls layout. Double-track main, 24" min mainline radii, and mountain terrain. I want it to be strong, have plywood subroadbed, and styrofoam scenery. What should I use to attatch it (semi-permanent) to concrete block walls? What framework should I use? I need advice, and all is welcome!
    TIA.
    Jeremiah
     
  2. Alan

    Alan Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    I hesitate to make recommendations on baseboards, as from what I have seen in magazines, Americans tend to make their baseboards strong enough to park real trains on :D :D

    If, here in England we would use 1" x 2" framing, in the US it would be at least 1" x 4". If we use a board thickness of 1/2", Americans would use several layers of this thickness :D So I will leave it to the locals to advise, but you sure do like your baseboards strong!!

    I guess that the reason we make them much lighter, is that a good percentage of our layouts are built for taking around to exhibitions, so weight (or lack of it) is an important factor for transportation and handling.

    The start of any layout is an exciting time, so have fun!
     
  3. rsn48

    rsn48 TrainBoard Member

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    I would highly, highly, highly, highly (lol) recommend you buy two small books. Both will be invaluable, the first is Armstrongs book on Track Planning; the other is one on Benchwork. Both of these are classics and need to be read several times. They are both available at your railroad modeling store, or over the net, or through Walther's catalogue, also on the net.

    The two most popular methods to build are called L girder and open grid. But other methods abound. I used neither method for what I did because I choose my method based on availability and cheapness of materials at the time of purchase - important to me; not so important to others.

    It is best to get the book on bench work as trying to describe building techniques in a single post is difficult.

    [ 12 February 2001: Message edited by: rsn48 ]
     
  4. ten87

    ten87 TrainBoard Member

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    <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Alan:
    ...tend to make their baseboards strong enough to park real trains on...<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

    Boy you ain't kidding! It took a lot of courage to fight tradition and go for lightweight benchwork on my home layout.

    [​IMG]

    As the diagram shows, I went with a 1 x 4" facia, 1 x 2" cross braces spaced every 12", and 3/8" plywood top. Since I was modeling an urban setting, I didn't cookie-cutter the top, but I could've easily done that.

    As for the original question, I would go with 2 x 4's nail-set into the basement wall (if concrete) and then 45 degree angle supports going from there to a few inches from the facia.

    Check out the framework on the N scale layout in the new Model Railroader.

    [ 12 February 2001: Message edited by: ten87 ]
     
  5. Robin Matthysen

    Robin Matthysen Passed Away October 17, 2005 In Memoriam

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    There is good advice already given. I made the MAT by mounting 2x4s from floor to ceiling where they are attached to the framing for the floor above. Cross beams hold them upright. From these I created shelving using 1x3s and put an angle support.
    The subroadbed is 1/2 inch ply. On top of that I have another 1/2 inch of foam insulation cut to fit the track. This picture doesn't show it all but might give you some idea of what I did. [​IMG]
     
  6. leghome

    leghome TrainBoard Member

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    I used 2 x 2's for my wall braces with 3/4 plywood ripped into 5" strips for the frame work. Pictures can be seen at www.members.iquest.net/~leghome/index.html
    On top of the plywood I used 1 1/2" pink styrofoam as my subroadbed. I will use AMI instant roadbed the laying of my track.
     
  7. moose

    moose TrainBoard Member

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    Here's how I am constructing mine.

    There are 3 16' 1X3 L girders. On top are 1X3 5' wide joists spaced every 12". On top of all this is 2" extruded foam board. The legs are made from 2X3's. Layout height is approx 58" (I'm 6'7") The benchwork is solid as a rock. (I have digital pictures, but no web site to post em on).
     
  8. Art

    Art Permanently dispatched

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    I use 1/4" plywood with 1 inch foam on top of it. Then use 1" X 3/4" pine to frame it. I have no problems, and have gone over 30' in length with no problems. Light weight is in for me.
    Art
     
  9. HemiAdda2d

    HemiAdda2d Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Art,
    How sturdy is your benchwork? I want to bea able to lean over it, if necessary. I was leaning toward 3/8"-1/2" ply, and 2" foam as the scenery base. I also want my height about 56", floor to top of lowest level railhead. That way I can admire my Micro Trains, and Kato equipment, at eye level, almost. I am 6'-0" and anticipate having kids..
    [​IMG] :D
     
  10. mdrzycimski

    mdrzycimski TrainBoard Supporter

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    <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by HemiAdda2d:
    What should I use to attatch it (semi-permanent) to concrete block walls?
    TIA.
    Jeremiah
    <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

    Jeremiah,

    You might want to get down to your local home improvement store (if there are any in ND) and look for screws that are specially designed to drive into concrete. These are hardened and have a coating to ease driving. You drill a small pilot hole and drive them through the wood and into the block wall to attach whatever benchwork you decide on. Be sure to drive into the mortar joints so you don't accidentally knock a hole into a concrete block! Down the road, you can remove the screws and fill the small holes with filler and it would be like your railroad was never there.

    Good Luck and let us know what you decide on doing. [​IMG]

    [ 13 February 2001: Message edited by: mdrzycimski ]
     
  11. Art

    Art Permanently dispatched

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    <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by HemiAdda2d:
    Art,
    How sturdy is your benchwork? I want to bea able to lean over it, if necessary. I was leaning toward 3/8"-1/2" ply, and 2" foam as the scenery base. I also want my height about 56", floor to top of lowest level railhead. That way I can admire my Micro Trains, and Kato equipment, at eye level, almost. I am 6'-0" and anticipate having kids..
    [​IMG] :D
    <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

    My degree is in Civil Engineering and I build everything like a truss. That way you have strength, and light in weight. We lean on the benchwork and do everything but stand on it. With the use of selectively designed supports this light weight system works great, and I would never change. We were able to move a section that was 16' long and almost 4' wide with myself and my wife... set it backup and be running in less than 1 hour. Oh nothing broke either...
    Art
     
  12. HemiAdda2d

    HemiAdda2d Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Art,
    You said you built it like a truss... IOW, you framed it like a roofing truss, underneath the foam, or as the supports, or both? You use those funky-looking nail-strips? Pics?
    *Hemimopar426@hotmail.com* :confused:
     

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