I know what the publications say, but I am curious as to whether or not some of you have experimented and came up with better weighting for better performance. I am in the process of weighting all my weathered rolling stock, and would like some ideas. Thanks.
If I'm taking this question right, are you looking for alternative weights? If so, try pennies. Each weighs 2.5 grams or .0881834 oz. 11 pennies=just under one ounce. Banks are closed today.
That depends upon the length of the car. The NMRA's recommendation is one ounce,plus 1/2 ounce per inch of model car length.
The NMRA Weight recommendation RP-20.1 can be found on the web at: http://www.nmra.org/standards The RP was designed to help a variety of cars (equipment) run together on a variety of model railroads. It is designed to compensate somewhat for a few poor wheels and perhaps some trackage that may have a few flaws. The prototype has a certain amount of weight to begin with and our models do not. Thus the recommended weight. That said, if your wheels are all perfect as is your track and you will never run your cars on someone else's railroad, then you can weight out at less than the recommendation with any formula that you find works for you. Personally, I use the NMRA RP-20.1 as a guide.
<font color="336633">I use the NMRA weighing system but add an ounce to what ever it comes to.</font>
I keep my weight slightly simple on the 40' and lower length cars. Right around 3 ounces total. On longer cars 50' plus feet long I put the weight right over the trucks about 2.5 to 3 ounces and keep a small amount in the ceter to help in aid to keep the frame from evenually sagging or bowing and all. Although, this is a outline for my weighting cars, I have a few 4 truck H.D. flats that weight 5 to 6 ounces each! For economical reasons. I put real loads on them and all....
Unless your going to spec everything out to the Ounce, I hva efound most Athearn, MDC, Proto 2000, Accurail car to be along the best line of Stock wieght right out of the boxes. I Put mine on the scale for checking to see if they are close, if there 3 ouces and roll in a trains with out derailing or other troubles I just leave them they way they are, LOnger cars, like the AutoRacks, 89' flats, and 86 foot box cars, are a little different story, these might have to be wieghted donw to or even over specs being they are so long, these you just might have to play around with a little, If they work well they way they are, let them be, adding wieght to your cars that don;t need it wil also take the Pulling power from your locomotives.
Weight…. Weight broke the wagon! On my model railroad I use a 9volt bat for basic weight. I'm not sure just what the weight of a 9 volt is but I seem to have accumulated a few of them from time to time and so when I have a car that needs weight I glue one in the center of the car. On Longer cars I some times use 2. I also use pennies or my latest marvel of blunder I used copper B-B's. I had bought 2, 6 packs of the Norfolk Southern coal porters by Walters, and was very disappointed in there weal sets and there weight. One car had a truck on it that the wheel had like melted off the axel and another had a big chunk out of it. After replacing all the trucks I then added a level coating of B-B's to each car. Then soaked / covered them with Elmer's glue and allowed them to dry. The coal porters run very nice now and I have little trouble with them. Having just put a small lare in the bottom of each car and kept the same amount in each allowed me to leave the car open as I'm hoping to make an operation coal loading and dumping facility on the railroad some day. But for now the cars run just fine. In the past I have used a thing called liquid steal. Not really the best thing to do. I had a few coal cars that the plastic in the bottom got a bit deformed. 2 of these wonders looked a bit like someone had pored molt ant medal in them and the other two looked like the load had gone nuclear and was now on its way to China. All hale 9volts and B-B's! he he he he!
The most important thing is consistancy. If you have one underweight car in the middle of a long train you will most likly have problems with it falling over in curves. Some will tell you the NMRA standard is too heavy. I don't think so and prefer heavyer stock. With our free wheeling trucks and wheels today, trying to couple to a single underweight car can be tricky at times (the car just rolls away) a bit of wieght will help that out just fine. I saw someone did the math a few years ago with the price of BBs v lead weights v pennies - and dollar per ounce of weight the pennies were the cheapest.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by yankinoz: [QB] I saw someone did the math a few years ago with the price of BBs v lead weights v pennies QB]<hr></blockquote> <font color="336633">I use white metal for my weights.... but then I have quite a lot of it lol but its handy for melting into odd shapes, like covered hopper bays etc.</font>
Black Cloud, I've found a good economical source for car weighting is tire balancing weights. They come in boxes of small one ounce squares with adhesive already applied to the back. You can have any local tire store order them for you. Millcastle
I would be concerned about using batteries for weight because the batteries contain acid and other caustic materials that will leak out over time.
6-Axle is correct! Batteries will also rust any steel parts in the area because the fumes given off as they age, removes any oil around. I left two AA's in an old 0-4-0 switcher and they rusted the motor beyond use!
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr> but its handy for melting into odd shapes, like covered hopper bays etc. <hr></blockquote> Matthew, how do you cast these odd shapes? [ 25 November 2001: Message edited by: Mike Sheridan ]</p>
Ok, this is going to be shooking.. But I use any avalible materials I have handy... Nickel, copper, lead, white metal, pot metal, steel, you name it! As long as its got any amount of weight and all that can be used as weight I use it.... I save every chunk or piece I have from left over scraps from something I machined or turned, whatever the case I throw nothing away! I got hoppers with the steal sheets, and some with nickel strip in them! I got a pretty good deal on a bunch of boxes of road sweeper bristols. If you all wonder... A D.O.T. road sweeper with the long what? 26 to 32 inch nickel strips that brush the road when state D.O.T. is doing some road work. Well I got a HUGH stock pile of this! I use it for all types of things! when I have a car that was bought junk and needs repairs to make it run instead of hunting around for the piece of sheet steel that goes between the body and frame I use the nickel strips for a load and also gives it the weight I need! Or if I have to add weight I'll line the interior (at the very lowest location possible and glue them in to add weight! In steamers... I'll line the lower boiler casting with these nickel strips or even the top boiler casting! I use it for any thing where it can be used! I have a relative thats a Penn D.O.T. worker and they had bought a new road sweeper in my local area and the old one was junked and they had a pick up truck load of these bristol replacements and all and the new sweeper they got the old (but new) bristols would not fit the machine and my relative told me about it so I payed the D.O.T. a visit to see just what they were going to do with them! Well turns out they were their for the taking.... I got a pick up loaded it and brought them all home! HA! They make good supports for scenery, bridge abutments, All kinds of things! and crazy enough, They are HO scale in thickness and width! Thinking of it... If they guys told me right and they are exactly what they said they are... The name on the boxes their in and the name stamped on the strips themself its called "Silfos" Ring a bell anyone? Watash???? Anyway thats the stuff though! Watash, in the package I'm going to me putting in the mail to you i'll includ a few pieces of this stuff... You examine it and let me know and all exactly what it is! But, I use for alot of different things on the layout and all...
If you're like me and like to add real cargo to the cars, you're stuck with heavier than "normal" cars. For example, try filling a coalporter with real coal....... That said, I've never had any of my new coalporters derail. Mark
I am running stock weight right now but plan to go to standard on my cars I have found a source for weight that I can afford FREE.... If you know someone who does stained glass find out what they do with there scrap lead, A coworkers wife does stained glass and he give me a box of scrap he was going to throw away , about 30 pounds worth or a life time supply or two....
25 lbs of #9 bird shot is very cheap, and much smaller than BB's, I've poured some in the smoke box of a couple of plastic steamers and added lots of weight. Watash [the answer man] gave me the idea. Cover the motor with saran wrap, pour the shot in and then pour in a dilute mix of water and Elmer's. Let it dry open it up and take out the saran wrap, your loco is now coated with XXX ounces of lead.
