Athearn SD40-2 The Athearn SD40-2 units I have came with wire handrails. The Athearn site does not specify the type of handrails used in the blue box line. In the "Ready to Roll" line Athearn lists the SD40-2 as having plastic handrails. Sure wish Athearn would keep the wire handrail sets available as replacement parts for the plastic handrails. I have been using Athearn Stanchions and the plastic handrails as a pattern to bend wire handrails from .015 stainless steel wire. The plastic handrails then go in the trash.
the last time I bought one, it's been two years or so, right after they released them with the new shell/drive, the kits I got had BOTH the plastic and the metal handrail sets included. Has that changed to just the plastic ones, I just don't know.
Like river-eagle; I got an SD40-2 a few years ago and I think that had both in the box. But probably different now anyway
Plastic set looks better. The metal set does require a bit of assembly, but once put on the locomotive and painted, they're passable. All of the blue-box Athearns I have ever bought have come with metal handrails- AFAIK, only the RTR models have plastic ones. But, I could be wrong......
Thanks Frisco Roberto. I'm about to get one; I will post results. I always thought the metal ones were loose and flopped around. Perhaps they were not assembled properly? Thanks again.
The only Athearn SD-40 I've had that had plastic handrails was almost a terror for me to handle as they were so frail. On the metal handrails soldered them and touched them up. I can never get paint to stick to the plastic ones for long. Even if the model just sits on the display rack without ever being touched the paint eventually cracks and falls off.
Yes. But don't try to solder them while they're on the model. What I do is mark where the stanchions hit the handrail by coloring those areas with a silver Sharpie then remove the railing and stanchions. The exact locations where the stanchions go on the railing will be obvious. I put just a touch of solder flux at the joint locations and lay it all outon a smooth piece of damp clay then let it dry. Then I go over each joint with a flame then apply the solder. The flux wicks the solder in the joint and makes it solid. Once it's done and cooled the assembly can be painted and mounted onto the model.
Some newer ones come with plastic. the older ones come with metal handrails. Metal is better. They hold up a lot more than plastic.
I tried to solder the handrails and was not successful. I used CA glue (after painting) and was surprised how sturdy these handrails were! They look pretty good, too. I believe I prefer these to the plastic rails.
I have to admit that if you're in the habit, as I am, of transporting your engines and rolling stock to your club layout, even in foam padding, securely fixed wire rails stand up to the inevitable movement a lot better than the plastic ones. If you want to protect the plastic ones, don't throw away the foam strips that are supplied in their boxes when new but use them at all times the loco's are not on the track. Seems the only way to retain their shape.
Plastic vs Wire - Photo Notwithstanding all the other issues about plastic vs wire, here is a photo of the plastic handrails on the left of the cab and the wire handrails on the right of the cab. (Athearn Blue Box originally with wire handrails.) If I had either one I would not change them just for appearance. The plastic are probably more scale-size if you need that.
