Mar 9, 2014
Lucky for us SP&S rarely ran them alone.
Thanks for the report.
Does the motor actually quit turning/stall? Or do the wheels slip/spin? Not trying to be nit picky but these are 2 separate issues, and I am considering purchasing a couple of these.
Are the locos not heavy enough? I just am curious if these electric motors are actually stalling. It is quite rare that a motor will stall, mostly it is an adhesion/ wheel slip issue.
In this era, we seem to hear or read of this too often.
I would love working QC in a model train factory... my test setup would be very nice - and heavy on the department budget... :teeth:
The motor stalls, without any wheelslip. They seem to have the right amount of weight in the loco.
I dont think I will be looking for another from Bowser.
I'd say they are heavy enough to run fine in pairs like they normally did. As far as Bowser goes, the 630s they made that I have do weigh more and one of them needs to have the pickup points cleaned. As for the 636s, I haven't had any stalls or real power issues and I have 3 in DC (well, tested out in DC and converted) and 2 in DCC/sound. I like the sound don't get me wrong, but I'm preferring the DC/DCC ready ones because they've been less troublesome. Like I posted before, most of the DC ones have a 21 pin plug that will need a harness converter for a 9 or 8 pin decoder (got the 9 pin ones for my Digitrax decoders).
If you only have the one loco I'd say you might have gotten a bad one, which happens. My old LHS that I preordered the DC ones from sent 3 of their 10 back before they hit the shelf, but then again that is why does pay to buy from LHSs. Have you checked the pickups and the motor for shorts? Is it still humming or does it just quit? Have you tested it with a voltage/amp meter? I'm rather surprised at how handy mine has become.
I have a VO1000 by Bowser that acted similar to what yours is doing and that turned out to be a transformer on the control end that was going out. The VO's motor for some reason didn't like the frequency the bad transformer was sending to it. It runs fine now but I did almost send it back.
You guys might do some checking into this but I read on another website that they are making replacement parts to correct the discrepancies in these 636's, available factory direct it seems.
It was posted on Trainorders that Bowser would have the correct fuel tank, trucks and correct height KD's available soon for the 1st run. The second run will have them factory installed.
Well, that is very good news indeed. Would have been a shame to let the issue slip when remedies would not seem all that complicated.
Edit: The news can also be found on the Bowser Facebook page. Apparently things were a bit more complicated, nevertheless. Even a new gearbox with new gears is on its way. So it's not just a patch up job. Congratulations to this effort.
I saw this good news earlier on the Bowser Facebook page. Shows they listen to criticism and act accordingly.
I agree, shows they are committed to their customers. Thats a good thing for sure.
Great news! It proves that they listen to their customers and don't go the "my way or the highway" route.
They've got my respect.
It is very good news that Bowser have listened and acted in such a direct way, but it still makes me wonder how the first batch was qc passed in the first place
Has anybody already successfully installed the replacement parts?
My son reports the arrival of the replacement parts, but meanwhile I have my SP&S engine here in Switzerland. So I'll have to wait for quite a while till I can try to do the conversion.
However, I have opened the model, trying to glue the antenna back on from the inside. And it turned out that's way beyond resonable. There is no direct access to the cab roof. And trying to remove the cab from the body almost resulted in destruction. So I gave up. Lots of wires and LED plates inside. So I wonder whether doing the replacements is easier. And can this be done without disconnecting the body with its wires?
On a related topic, I noticed the engine is not doing well with the "new" decoder when operated in straight DC mode. The Tsunami decoders operated decently under my analog DC controls. With this Loksound one, I get very uneven running characteristics. And it's always rather on the slow side only.
Class lights issue
I'm not sure whether those little lights above the front numbers are really always called class lights. Bowser has tried to improve on those lights compared to most other models with such lights. Compared to the prototype photos, however, the inserts are too far recessed and they are also too small. And actually, they are also too colorful when not illuminated. Has anybody tackled this problem yet? I'm presently trying to fill the recessions with clear lacquer to create that glass look. Not sure yet whether it will work. I started out with a first tiny droplet in each hole, using a very small #000 paint brush. This first droplet needs to dry first, and thus fill the gaps around the inserts. Otherwise, the clear paint will keep running inside instead of filling up the front. I hope this will work as planned. I may also add a tiny bit of darkish paint to imitate the looks when not illuminated. However, the amount should be such that the light can still shine through.
Before I try this, I'd love to hear from others about possible better solutions. Thanks.
Well, I went ahead trying to get this small improvement done. And I think the result looks fairly good. I posted a picture in the RailImages section: http://www.trainboard.com/railimage...class-lights-bowser-c636-sp-26amp-3bs/cat/500
There is also a more detailed description of how I proceeded.
I think that is very nicely done.
If you buy one of the forthcoming Bowser Canadian GMD SD40-2's these lights will actually work!
I'm tempted to buy one just for that feature.
I have two on pre-order, a CP Rail and a ONR. I presume, however, the functioning class lights will only really make sense in DCC? I'm happy with my analog layout, and most models will remain on the display shelf anyway.
Read this whole discussion with great interest even if I have no use for one of these, but they are quite the beasts and I recall seeing them long ago.
That gap between the truck and side beam really is different. Dug up this image. And although I am fairly understanding about the complexity of designing a model that is supposed to work with different hidden mechs inside, and be very shrunk down, it does seem to ruin the effect of seeing the real thing.
Has anyone measured the three critical points on this: the width of the side beam right above the truck, the height of the truck itself, and that gap. Perhaps comparing it to the image I posted as it can be measured as well? Maybe their mistake was in re-using trucks they already had molds for and merely adapting the outside detail to that.
I just went and looked at their site link I found on here: http://www.bowser-trains.com/new/c636.html
Even their sample drawings do not match their model, as the back/inside end of the truck is level with the fuel tank just like the prototype. They did say the tank was a comporomise, but the trucks do not line up with the top edge of the tank.
Hope I am not repeating everything that's been said, but got a all curious and had to see why everyone was complaining and must agree, this is kind of a fail as far as looks are concerned.
I bought two Bowser Alco C-636's in BN. They are excellent locomotives well detailed and run great. The photo is of a prototype Alco C-636