Broadway Limited NW2 painting

Stephane Savard Apr 3, 2022

  1. Stephane Savard

    Stephane Savard TrainBoard Member

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    New project!

    All started back in February when I went to the hobby shop, and came across a Bachmann 70T yellow and black locomotive with no road name. It was already DCC, and was fairly cheap, but I didn't know much about the model. All I knew is that it would make a nice little industrial switcher for my layout. So I went home, read some reviews, and went back the very next day. Ha! He who hesitates eh?

    So now I scoured the internet and ebay trying to find a Bachmann 70T. I'm modelling modern era, but I don't mind, to me and my train set layout, it was plausible that in this industry they still had an old 70T switcher. But nothing, just can't find another of these little guys.

    Okay, what other switchers could I find? The Bachmann was already painted, just no road name, so I started looking for undecorated locomotives. As the title suggests, I found one of the new Paragon4 Broadway Limited NW2, undecorated. Lately, I've been getting a lot more confortable opening up engines (sound installation in Kato ES44AC, adding capacitors to the Rapido GMD-1), so I thought, why not?! Still not modern, but I like the looks of this model, it'll do!

    IMG_20220403_171254517.JPG

    I only thought of starting a "build" thread today, so I didn't think to take a picture of the loco when I received it. But that's where it stands today... total disassembly! I did run the engine beforehand, and it works only okay. There's something wrong with the the trucks, sounds like a coffee grinder. Considering that there was a lot of flash on the side frames of the trucks that was contacting the wheels, I figure that I'll take more care in reassembling the trucks and get them running smoothly. Plus, with the trucks off, I did power the motor, and it was running incredibly smoothly and super silent; so I know where the problem lies.

    This is my very first undecorated engine, and I'm a bit surprised that the manufacturer doesn't make it easier on the buyer. To be able to wash the bottom frame (can't paint it with oil all over the frame), I had to desolder the wires from the trucks, else I couldn't remove the motor and decoder from the frame. Plus, the silly windows were glued into the cab!! Luckily there was only a bit of glue, and I was able to cleanly separate the window panes out of the cab.

    As for paint scheme, I'm not yet entirely decided. I do know I want some chevron stripes on the front/back, and it needs to be yellow. So to that end I've bought microscale decals - a set of chevrons, and a sheet of EMD/GE locomotive data / builder plates. I don't know if I'll put an industry road name on it yet. Though I am maybe thinking of using the Xstrata mining company. This switcher will be in my Zinc mine tracks. Would be yellow and black...

    [​IMG]
    (Image linked from Canadian Railway Observations website, here)

    Obviously not an NW2, and Xstrata would have "modern" switchers I suppose, but maybe I don't mind, I've heard some people say it was my railroad right? :D Anyway, it's a good starting point for a yellow and black paint job.
     

    Attached Files:

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  2. Stephane Savard

    Stephane Savard TrainBoard Member

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    A few days later, and now got some more done..

    IMG_20220410_090822151.JPG

    Started with cleaning the shell, frame and the little tidbits in warm water and Dawn dish detergent just to get all the oils off, especially off the bottom frame and the truck side frames. Then used Tamiya Fine grey primer for the first time. All I can say is wow, that rattle can primer goes on really smooth! Prior to this I've only used the regular Tamiya primer, and well, I'm surprised that there's such a difference.

    IMG_20220412_173655790.JPG

    Next I airbrushed a coat of yellow paint over the main body and the cab. I mostly stayed away from the roof and the top of the hood. I opted for Tamiya XF-3 yellow, diluted with Vallejo airbrush thinner. For the cab roof, I barely masked the side of the cab, the horn and the headlight, but didn't let the masking go all the way to the cab roof. Basically, when I sprayed the black, I just aimed for the back of the cab roof, not to get any overspray on the sides. It worked perfectly, with barely a speck of black paint touching the yellow. In the above picture, I've also sprayed a coat of Satin Vallejo varnish.

    IMG_20220412_173719904.JPG

    The bottom frame and side frames are just painted pure black (Vallejo Model Color Black, thinned with Vallejo Airbrush Thinner). For the bottom frame I only masked the top of the frame where the motor and the decoder sit (the alligator clips are holding on to the masking tape).

    The yellow turned out reaally yellow. But I don't hate it, I want to try weathering this switcher (if I get the courage to try), and if so, the brighter yellow will be a nice starting point for fading the paint. This past weekend I was at Michaels with my daughters and picked up a set of 24 oil paints (Artist Loft). Mostly was the cheapest way to get a good mix of sienna, umber, black and white. I'd really like to try my hand at oil paint weathering.

    Anyway, for now, the next step is going to partially assemble the shell, and start with some decals, some detail paint (i.e. black trim on the windows), and applying some of the grab irons and such. At this point I'm not going for the Xstrata paint scheme exactly, just the basic yellow with black tops. I wanted to do chevron stripes on the front and rear pilots, but I have black chevrons. I really need the yellow chevrons to do that now, but I have no local hobby shops, last one closed this past month. Will have to order, or find some other way of getting those chevrons.
     
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  3. CSX Robert

    CSX Robert TrainBoard Member

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    I love it! If you're going to make it yellow, you might as well make it YELLOW! Seriously though, it's looking great so far.
     
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  4. Shortround

    Shortround TrainBoard Member

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    I like the yellow as well. May as well be bright and visible.
     
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  5. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    Yeah those Bachmann 70 Ton and F7's DCC Equipped were like $49.99 Brand New for a couple of years on a popular internet site. Now they are no where to be found. I had a pair of older Bachmann DCC Equipped F7's that I ran for years. And I bought both on here for less then $50.00 for the pair! And they are still running, gave them to a friend just getting into the N Scale hobby!

    Me also like the Black & Yellow, curious to see how you tone it down? Looks great so far!
     
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  6. Stephane Savard

    Stephane Savard TrainBoard Member

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    Me too! :D I don't really think I'll tone it down, so much as add rusty layers to it. We'll see I guess! Anyway, I do like the yellow, so all's good here, this is pretty much freelanced so makes it easier than trying to match a real paint colour. All I was looking for is to not make it look school bus yellow and that worked out.

    What didn't work out.. grr!

    IMG_20220413_181426287_HDR.JPG

    I spent two hours trying to paint the window edges black. What a mess! Some of the openings are okay, but others are terrible. I was using my 5x magnifier glasses and I do have a fairly steady hand for painting small details, but it was just really difficult to get it juuuust right. Had to touch up some of the yellow afterwards to hide the worse of the "ooops I missed" spots. Tomorrow I'll give it a second touch up, just to at least get rid of the "whiskers of paint". I'm not completely unhappy with this, I mean the photos reveal a lot more of the issues than is visible with the naked eye. Even with my reading glasses on, it looks okay. Anyhow, dinner time now, so I ran out time for the touch ups, but I know I can clean up the windows to a smoother edge. I think I just need to use a fresh paint brush and no caffeine beforehand :D

    Oh, and yeah, also included the bottom frame without the masking tape, showing what I painted and what I opted not to touch. Bonus, I went to a craft and hobby store (no trains sold there, but they have wargaming and plastic model kits), picked up a sheet of clear decal film. I'll make my own yellow chevron stripes for the pilots.
     
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  7. freddy_fo

    freddy_fo TrainBoard Member

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    Coming along real nice! The tamiya weathering kits work real nice to gradually add weathering and I'm a fan of their panel line detail stuff as well. With the latter it goes on dark but as it dries it fades out a bit. I do like to put on a clear coat first though so I can q-tip off excess panel line solution without having to worry about taking off some of the basecoat paint.
     
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  8. Stephane Savard

    Stephane Savard TrainBoard Member

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    I've dabbled with weathering 3d printer models, but it's always a challenge. It looks so nice when just finished painting, and the amount of effort to get to that point means it's difficult to start weathering and potentially ruin it.

    Anyway, for most weathering (bridges and buildings) I've been using panpastels, I have a fairly large collection of colours now.
     
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  9. freddy_fo

    freddy_fo TrainBoard Member

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    I understand not wanting to weather pristine models. I struggle with that too. Most of my model work is actually 1/24 cars where I'm going for factory fresh look and weathering is reserved for ships and RR.

    The tamiya is pretty much like the panpastels. Maybe pan is softer ergo a heavier initial application? With the tamiya I find myself having to make many applications if I want more of an opaque appearance. That is actually okay as it gives me time to get the result I want without overdoing it.

    I rob my wife's makeup applicators like the eyeshadow one to do most of my work. One of these days she's going to find them and if she's paying attention will leave them be or get some unwanted color combos on her face lol.

    The tamiya panel line stuff is horrible for 3d printed models because it draws into all the ridges that are common with the filament prints and highlight them. The resin prints are usually smoother so not as much of an issue. It also wicks out of depressions and into the paint if flat finish but I find it's a desirable result if weathering.
     
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  10. MRLdave

    MRLdave TrainBoard Member

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  11. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    I have noticed also that photo's show horrible painting mistakes with these new high resolution cameras, even on out cell phones. Step back to a normal viewing angle and all will be good, me thinks? Even in the photo it looks absolutely fine to me. We are our own worst critics. Once your done with this project and move on to another, you'll never look at it that closely again, I bet?

    I just wanna see it put together with your custom decals.
     
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  12. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    I will be married 38 years next month. I always ask first. :whistle:
     
  13. Shortround

    Shortround TrainBoard Member

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    I have never pillaged my woman's supplies. But the gals at the store check out sure looked at me as unusual. :whistle:
    Even nail polish and remover come in handy for modeling. ;)
     
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  14. MK

    MK TrainBoard Member

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    Just tell'em they are for your mistress. :whistle: :D
     
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  15. freddy_fo

    freddy_fo TrainBoard Member

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    Go to the paint section and buy the quart of acetone. The check out gal will never question your manliness then:D
     
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  16. Shortround

    Shortround TrainBoard Member

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    Yes they will. And demand a current photo ID. :eek: And I don't use acetone on my fingers.
     
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  17. Stephane Savard

    Stephane Savard TrainBoard Member

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    I've never tried the tamiya stuff, but the panpastels are very light, usually need to apply several layers to get anywhere, and then a coat of varnish usually makes it half disappear. This makes it fairly easy to use, and I have a supply for several life times now. As for my wife, well, she's not much into makeup, and honestly, at this point, I think I have a lot more brush applicators than she does! I have all sorts of blending brushes, foam applicators, etc. etc. :D You know, I have my wife and two teenage daughters, and I'm the one with the most brushes, and also the one that owns a sewing machine and a sewing kit :D

    I have a huge supply of these, but never thought to try using them for paint. I mostly use them for glue or cleaning little bits, and applying panpastels. Honestly, not sure the tip would fit in the windows, n-scale windows are tiny!
     
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  18. freddy_fo

    freddy_fo TrainBoard Member

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    Most nail polish remover is acetone or contains it in large amounts. I use it for cleaning airbrushes when shooting acetone based acrylics but not for cleaning body parts lol. Never been carded when purchasing the stuff but not surprised it happens considering the current state of things.
     
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  19. Stephane Savard

    Stephane Savard TrainBoard Member

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    Okay, next update, just a little one...

    IMG_20220415_143704464.JPG

    Started adding in the little details that won't interfere with decals or weathering. Two grab irons on top, the stacks, bell, and the end bar on the main body. I was super lucky with the grab irons. The large one on top of the hood, I took it in my tweezers to paint, and pressed too hard, and twang!! it flew off. Lucky, I found it again. Only to do again a few minutes later. No where to be found!!! So how was I lucky? Ha! the kit contained ONE extra grab iron, and it was the one I lost. Either that and by some miracle, the grab iron flew up in the air and happened to land exactly into the right compartment in the box I was storing the little bits :eek:

    Actually, there is a story I never mentioned about the grab iron holes. Before painting everything, I did a lot of test fitting or parts. and in the main body here (diecast metal) not a single grab iron hole was drilled out right. They were not more than a dimple. I broke six of seven bits trying to drill the holes out! Most holes did work ok, but in three different places, the drill bit broke and stayed in the hole. The end grab iron that is set at 45 degree angle (at the front of the hood) is one such place. So here the grab iron is really only held in place by the one hole. I trimmed the other side flush so that it just contacts the shallow depression where the hole should be.

    IMG_20220415_144144291.JPG

    I cleaned up the windows, much happier with them now. Still messy, but that just makes me what to weather and rust them more, ha! Two more grab irons in the cab.

    IMG_20220415_143628688.JPG

    Finally, I used a free vector drawing application called Inkscape to design the yellow chevrons, and the side sill stripes. I printed various thicknesses, so not sure which one I'll use yet. Likely the bars at the top left corner. They will only be on the pilot, each end. Even though it looks white here, the paper is supposed to be clear. I still have to give the decals a clear coat of varnish. Will do that later tonight to be ready for tomorrow, I want to give the ink time to dry correctly.
     
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  20. freddy_fo

    freddy_fo TrainBoard Member

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    I'm a big fan of the flexi-file 5/0 brush for the smallest of details. They make an even finer 10/0 but haven't had a need to go that small yet.
     
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