Changing times

Robin Matthysen Sep 13, 2001

  1. Robin Matthysen

    Robin Matthysen Passed Away October 17, 2005 In Memoriam

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    The MAT has been on the go for 4 years now. Originally I used the experience from previous layouts to dvelop the current MAT plan. It has been a lot of fun building and operating this layout but it is really interesting what you learn.
    I never thought I would ever believe this would ever happen but I am thinking of rebuilding the whole layout.
    WHY??
    (1) I found that I do not like a two level layout. The lower level is too low and the upper level is too high for enjoyable operation.
    (2) Under track work is far too awkward and I have spent many frustrating hours crawling on my knees to wire the lower level and head banging and scenery destruction trying to wire the upper level.
    (3) Mobility, this layout as it is today can not be moved. For the next few years, that is OK but at some time we will be moving to a smaller 2 bedroom bungalow. Basement areas are about what we have now so space isn't an issue.
    (4) Long tunnels and helixes don't provide the enjoyment I thought they would. If anything happens such as derailing then it is sure to happen in a long tunnel. This means haveing to get under the layout again to fix problems. I did make sure of smooth track laying in these tunnels so problems aren't caused by the track, rather it is the result of cars being pulled off the 15 inch radius curve. This appears to be a car weight problem and I am dealing with that but don't want cars to be too heavy either.
    So with all that said, I am working on a plan that will have mobility in mind. I want the various sections to be bolted together and will cut the track where necessary so no section will be larger than 4ft. by 7ft. This size is maximum I can bring up the stairs from the basement.
    The layout will be single level and will be about 55inches up from floor level so there will be easy access for below track work.
    Minimum track curves will be 20 inch radius.(N gauge) Trains look much better on this curve .
    There will be a few short tunnels and bridges but mostly the track and therfore trains, will be visible.
    I will be able to use all my structures and trees in the new layout .
    The purpose of the layout will remain the same and will be an end to end layout with futher expansion depending on the space available in whatever new home we move to.
    I will post the proposed layout plan when it has been completed.
    This is a huge step to take so wonder if any of you have come to this point in you model railroad lives.

    [ 13 September 2001: Message edited by: Robin Matthysen ]

    [ 26 September 2001: Message edited by: Robin Matthysen ]</p>
     
  2. Frank Labor

    Frank Labor TrainBoard Member

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    Robin, I can empathize with your decisions to change the layout. As far as building for mobility, I used a limple 1x4 L girder frame for all of my tables. I butt jointed them so that all screws are on the outside of the tables, have 1x4 pieces in the middle and ends of 8 foot sections. Each table is 2x8 or 2x6 feet. The L grider was perfect for my table tops made of 2" thick extruded styrofoam. Each table is bolted to the next and originally, a 6" single piece of track crossed the table junction. After some later track work, I simply laid flextrack everywhere and plan to cut the 6" sections in when I have to move.
    All the wiring is either installed with connectors at each table junction or has the slack to put the connectors in later.
    My layout is still under construction and is about 50% completed for track laying. The mountain division will be started next January. Operations are already underway while scenery plans are being finalized. The plan can be seen at http://www.trainboard.com/userphotos/wfp.jpg
    I can take a few pics of the table work and send them to you next week.
    Good Luck
     
  3. justind

    justind TrainBoard Member

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    Hello Frank, that layout plan was huge! The turntable and surounding staging and ready-tracks was very impressive. Do you have any pics for this layout on the WWW?
     
  4. Robin Matthysen

    Robin Matthysen Passed Away October 17, 2005 In Memoriam

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    Thanks Frank for the mobility ideas. They are much appreciated.
     
  5. MRL Mick

    MRL Mick TrainBoard Member

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    Robin,
    thanks for shaing your experiences. I am in the process of designing a layout with help from Watash and appreciate your observations. I am curious about the two levels. Do you have hidden staging or do you have two distinct levels?

    What code of track are you using? and do you super elevate ont the helixes?

    Thanks,
     
  6. Hunter

    Hunter Profile Locked

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    Is the userphotos ready? [​IMG]
     
  7. Gary Pfeil

    Gary Pfeil TrainBoard Member

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    Two level railroads are definately something you want to give a great deal of thought to. When I bought my home 5 years ago, I knew I wanted a two level road, even tho I had a fairly large area to work in.(19x25'in HO) One important fact here is that I was not a beginner, I have built 4 layouts to varying degress of completion previously. I spent quite a bit of time and effort mocking up the height of the two levels to both give adaquate seperation and provide satisfactory viewing angles. Also, a lot of thought went into how the road would be operated. I already knew that I wanted both continuous run and a lot of switching. To make this short, I wound up with continuous running on the lower level(about 45" high) this level has a double track main which has staging at each loop, which are wired(DCC) as reverse blocks so the mains are the same polarity. There will be limited switching added in the future. Trains can be set in motion and largely ignored on this level. The upper level is point to loop and is heavily industrialized. It features a yard where local freights originate and serve two towns, through freights come from staging to drop/pickup at the yard. This level is 60" high, goes as high as 66" (near eye level) I love seeing trains at this height more than I thought I would. As far as wiring goes, I found 45" not too bad, this height is probably about the average for one level roads. The upper level is easy to wire, bearing in mind that the lower level does not extend into the aisle further than the upper level, and the upper level is kept fairly narrow. Actually, some of the scenes on the upper level are quite deep (4') but the track is kept up front, the rest is scenery. so, my advise is, don't attempt a two level road for a first try, build small roads and find out through experience what type of operation you most enjoy and at what heights you prefer to see your trains. Get plenty of experience before attemping anything so large.

    Gary
     
  8. Robin Matthysen

    Robin Matthysen Passed Away October 17, 2005 In Memoriam

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    Michael, the MAT is a two level operation.
    The link will give you more information.
    I used the regular Atlas flex track and Peco switches.track plan
     
  9. Colonel

    Colonel Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Robin,
    how much of the existing layout to you hope to recover?

    I found while extending my layout that any ballasted track virtually was unrecoverable?

    good luck with your plans , do you have any idea on what you want to model this time?
     
  10. Robin Matthysen

    Robin Matthysen Passed Away October 17, 2005 In Memoriam

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    Silly me, It never ceases to amaze me how many errors I make. Here I was saying diameter when I really meant radius. What a difference that can make to a layout EH!
    Paul, I am just going through the redesign of the MAT and see how things will change. One addition for sure will be an interchange at Sarnia/Port Huron with Catts GVR. I hope to get the layout plan finished and posted soon.
     
  11. Robin Matthysen

    Robin Matthysen Passed Away October 17, 2005 In Memoriam

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    I waited till I actually got to recycle track to respond to you Paul. I had used diluted white glue to hold the ballast in place. Now, I just wet it well and then the track lifts up quite easily. It takes a while to clean the ballast off but an old toothbrush and a toothpick or two does the job. I have recovered about 60% of the track so far and feel I will recover 95% or better this along with 100% of all switches. It has been easier than I expected.
     

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