I have an older Con-Cor Big Boy that has been in storage for years and I took it out to run and it just buzzes. Took the shell off, and removed the motor, tested it and it works fine, but noticed lots of caked, dried grease on the gears. I can get some of it with various tools, but was thinking about dropping the whole mechanism, without the motor of course, into an ultrasonic cleaner with some distilled water and some Dawn dish soap. Anyone tried this before? I am really hesitant about taking the gear towers apart because of trying to re-quarter the drivers. Any thoughts? Thanks, Tom
I use an ultrasound bath dropping motor and all in the bath. I generally run the ultrasound until the solution heats up and leave it there for a bit. Then run a clear water solution with the parts in it again getting the solution warm. Set it out and air dry it with compressed air and then let it set in front of a fan for hours before attempting a relube and a power up again. Another solution to use is a 50-50 mix of Simple Green.
Just a little tid-bit info.... https://www.trainboard.com/highball...dc-locomotive-motor-in-water-to-clean.123260/
I've been using "CRC QD Electronic Cleaner" which totally evaporates and supposedly leaves no residue behind at all.
I haven’t done this before, but I’ve thought (in advance) it possible that, if you take a few pictures of the valve gear/driving rods with a cell phone, you have a record of a working alignment/quartering to refer to for reassembly. Bueno o no bueno? Easier said than done?
OMG what an IDIOT as didn't follow own advise? I was reading elsewhere and thought worthwhile to pass along here. My turntable rail power quit as well and, upon searching (after not finding an allen wrench small enough to take the platter off) I found this thread here -> "How to fix Atlas turntable lack of rail power problem". If one scrolls down to next-to-last post know I finally tried a SHOT of CRC and - by gosh - table rail-power is working again! Did Atlas make an 'N' scale table as well? Wiring the round-house tracks is an entirely different story. Each bay has two tiny, pre-drilled holes approx 9" down so using very small, 26g solid wire, it's a much easier connection if able to remove both pre-attached, opposite-end rail joiners then, pre-assembling all outside on the bench, simply feed the connected wires thru (while observing table A/B reversing polarity). CHEERS (ps: the wire is thin enough that can slip it between the joiner & rail with no soldering required)
^ Yup Atlas makes a N scale turntable, the track portion is only 7 1/2" so the Big Boy ain't gonna fit.
CRC electronic cleaner is the ticket. there will be some condensation on the loco after you clean it, the CRC comes out cold. That whole PV=nRT physics problem where the temp decreases as it comes out of the can. Let it sit after cleaning for the condensation evaporate.
Just future reference (for anybody considering) each HO Atlas roundhouse bay track is 13.5" but with a building depth of 11" setback 1" from track ends means any loco greater than 10" (ie: my 6-axle Walthers) against the "back wall / built-in stop" will stick-out, unable to close bay doors. If using 1" rail-attached track-end bumpers then one loses approx 2" (back-wall minus avail track) and plan on anything over 8" sticking out.
Excellent idea. Look for it at your local auto parts store. https://www.crcindustries.com/qd-174-electronic-cleaner-11-wt-oz/ This one specifically works on energized equipment and dissolves grease: https://www.crcindustries.com/lectra-motive-174-electric-parts-cleaner-19-wt-oz/
Also available at Harbor Freight. https://www.harborfreight.com/11-oz-electronics-cleaner-62228.html Or both at Home Depot. https://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505 https://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-19-oz-Lectra-Clean-Heavy-Duty-Degreaser-02018-6/100111937
Good ole' Chemical Rubber Company... My father (a chemical engineer) swore by their products and handbooks. Their handbooks were the "Google" of technical mathematics, physics and chemistry data before the interweb was even dreamed of, when "computer" was an occupation.
Yikes HELP how! Remove coupler boxes? I tried to remove the shells from my two "dcc ready" Walthers SD70s (with AC motors?) and quickly GAVE-IT-UP. YT vid talks 'bout the 50 so assume mine is similar although the "two screws" mentioned are on opposing trucks/sides instead of just one "side-by-side"? Have no idea if there's a dcc board inside is adding features possible (ie: horn) while still running dc?
DCC provides power and control communications through the rails to the locomotive. Without the DCC waveform on the rails, there is no communications to control add'l features like horns, etc. It is important to note that in a DCC locomotive, a decoder is used to interpret DCC commands sent via the rails, and also convert the AC DCC waveform to variable voltage DC to the locomotive's motor. The decoder receives communications from the "throttle" to control not just loco speed, but also lights, horns, sounds, etc., depending on the decoder's capabilities. However, all that said, DCC decoders can still* perform basic functionality like motor speed and directional lights based on variable voltage DC current from a DC power pack. *The decoder may have to be configured (using a DCC programming system, inherent in most DCC power packs) to enable DC track operation.
