First shot! I used the models from Stephane- REALLY NICE WORK!!! All I had to do for the Anycubic Mono 2 was to slice so it stored in Anycubic format. Used standard setting for the standard gray Anycubic resin. Almost perfect! Big thanks for Stephane! Now, rinse and dry, cook a bit, and some paint and decals...
Quite the project, one I just noticed and read through. You have an assembly line going! I also have a 3D printer, a first-gen Anycubic Photon. Not mono, no 4K, the o-rig-in-al. Does well enough for me. My youngest has used it more lately than I have! All that to say, 3D modeling and printing is a really neat way to get one-off or multiple models for lower costs. I just did the same for telegraph pole crossarms. Said details are available, but I'd go bankrupt buying all I would need for my layout. I printed about 5 build plates worth, and still have to clean, trim, paint and install them, as in the other product, but much cheaper to me. I'm in a hotel room doing the work, as I'm attending lots of training. Plenty of time do do such things.
Stephane- i took your advice, trotted down to the local Ace, and picked up a plastic razor blade scraper for 2 bucks. Works like a charm. What is your recommendation for adjusting the length from 40 to 48ft? I have a bunch of well cars that are 48 feet, and some that are 53 feet-- start from scratch or adjust your existing file with an inserted section?
I have a steel palette knife (an art/painting tool) that is very thin and slips nicely under a print raft. It's a nice alternative. Not the same one I have, but similar. Most art stores that sell fine paint brushes will have this. Hobby Lobby, etc. https://www.hobbylobby.com/Art-Supplies/Painting-Supplies/Palettes-Tools/Palette-Knives/p/5310
Looking at pictures, looks like just copy/pasting the ends of the model (about three ribs worth) and grafting those to the end of the 40' might work. Then clean up the throat. Right, just loaded my fusion design, not sure that's gonna be so easy to copy paste due to door and roof details. You could try mesh mixing it , but I'd start from scratch. I remember even going from 40 to 53, or down to 20 had introduced so much breakage into the fusion file, had taken me hours to repair and rework (and I was very familiar with the sketches!) A fusion 360 expert would have designed the file better so that a change to the early sketches would not cause cascading failures in the further sketches but I'm no expert I model modern trains and 48 foot containers don't seem to exist anymore, have never seen one in the wild. The 48 foot well cars all appear to have 40s in the bottom with 53s on top of that.
Do you have the .f3d files posted or only the .stl? With the .f3d would you be able to cut it in the middle of a rib and move it apart 8 feet. Then cut out an 8 foot section. Might have to be just a bit off to stay in the middle of the end ribs for that section. Insert the 8 foot section between the two end components and combine it all back together. Just a thought. Sumner
Due to the structural differences between the 40' and 48', it will be a challenge. It'd probably be easier to take the 53', cut the ends off, and create new, shorter ends.
Today- I made some of Stephane's 40ft High Cube containers with bottoms, then some 20 foot containers with bottoms, then I reworked the files a bit and made some 40 foot standard height units. Also, designed and made 4 different cases for speakers (so I do not have to sand them down to fit). 2mm/2.5mm/3mm/4mm heights to fit into different diesels. I coupled a 4mm case to a OWS 9x16mm speaker (from DigiKey), installed in a Kato SD70M with an ESU LokSound 5 micro DCC Kato USA- OMG is it loud!! Will have to knock down the volume tomorrow. The biggest thing is that mu new Anycubic resin printer unit really works! Whew! Oh, yeah... I also ordered a batch of container decals from N Scale Supply. They have a huge selection. Time to fire up the air brush.
Did you modify the 40' hi-cube file to standard height? I did have both standard and hi-cube 40 footers in the resources section If you just improved the model, you can post the updated model back to resources, I'm sure others will like the improvements (my containers are just good enough for me, they can certainly be improved!)
Hi Sorry for long delay- we were on vacation. So, what I did was to add a brace in the interior middle to hold the sides firmly in the 40 foot containers. In my printer (Anycubic Mono 2 with standard resin), I found that the sides warped out after curing. So, to compensate, I put in a beam that spans the center, and does not interfere with the magnet fitments. I need to upload the new file to resources. But, the real kudos goes to you for fabulous work! I have not yet adjusted the 40 foot high cube file. The 20 foot containers did not really warp much, so I did not bother to add the brace. My well cars are the 48 foot style so I do not need 53ft units on my railroad. I got a bunch of decals from N Scale Supply while I was gone, so time to paint and decal the containers.
Hi to all Here is my first finished 40 foot container (S. Savard design), printed on a Photon Mono 2, painted, with MicroScale decals.
Nice work! I caught your D&RGW RS-3 in the background, too ... Plenty of detail with all the decals--just add a couple hazardous materials placards, and she's ready to go! On a side note, you may wish to have a word with your container crane operator, as I don't think he should park that container on the shop roof!
Thanks. The decaling is pretty touchy, but MicroScale stuff is good. I learned to use both MicroSet and MicroSol to get the best finish/appearance.
Hi to all Here are more containers, again built with S. Savard's core model. 4 40 foot and 1 20 foot container. Painted with acrylics using an airbrush. Then added the Microscale decals. I sealed all of the containers with satin polyurethane. More to come- Evergreen, Showa, OOCL and others.
