Ben, Thanks for the recommendations. I have been finding the Red Caboose couplers out of stock at a lot of places; even found one on-line hobby shop that said they have been discontinued. So I called Red Caboose directly, and they're in business and have all sizes in stock - guess I need to e-mail some of the hobby shops and ask them to re-order from Red Caboose. Red Caboose says the hobby shops are the best bet since they can offer the couplers at lower prices in most cases than I can get ordering a small quantity directly from Red Caboose myself.
M.B. woo woo woo shows short and long shanks in stock. http://www.some train store.com/category_s/357.htm I think I last bought some from N Scale Supply, but they don't have a Red Caboose page in their catalog at present. Ben
Would I be correct in assuming that these wheels would be compatible with Atlas Code 55 track. I'm trying to avoid the MTL "pizza cutters". Do either of these solutions require you to cut the pin in the Con-Cor coupler pocket? I have some Con-Cor passenger cars in collectors' sets. These cars are made by Rivarossi. Some already have new MTL trucks. I'd like to upgrade the rest, but want to economize.
Yes, the IM wheels have low profile flanges. No, you do not have to remove the pin in the coupler pocket to mount either the Kato or the Unimate couplers as you would if you were installing the Microtrain MT 1129 with the metal clip.
My opinion may differ slightly here. ConCor, Kato (new or old version of couplers), Athearn, Accumate, Roundhouse and all but... MicroTrains or Unimates... will pull apart on a downhill 2% grade. If you are operating on a "Flat Landers" railroad you will most likely be safe using aforementioned couplers. However, if you are operating a "Mountain Man's" railroad you are going to wish you had taken my advice. MicroTrains or Unimates are the only ones that stay together consistently, despite the loads placed on them. My favorite is MicroTrains and I only use the Unimates as a temporary substitute (Until I can afford MT's) or for "Unit" type trains Ie., Locomotive lash ups, Passenger and Coal trains just to name a few. Just my two cents. Take what you can. Take what you want and discard the rest. Have fun!
Personally, I regauged my stock metal wheels to be corect, then just body mounted MT couplers, I was able to get fairly close coupling, and retain the uniformity of couplers between all my rolling stock.
I only use Kato, MT and Unimate. The only ones I ever had trouble with on 2% grade were the 2nd generation Kato, the ones used on the corrugated cars. Of course the uncoupling of the 2nd generation was not limited to grades. Occurred on level track as well. No problem with 1st generation (11-702) and the present Kato couplers (SF Super Chief onward). My trains are 12 max passenger cars and 25 max freight which may account for some of my stay-coupled success. HELPFUL HINT: I find the very square end of Unimate couplers, the end that goes into the coupler box, are hard for me to get started when twisting them into the coupler box. Rounding the corner that goes in first helps considerably. Use a file or sprue cutter to round it slightly and it slips in more easily. Ben
Unimates need to be shaved. Ben and all, My trains tend to exceed the limits you've set. I can run a 20 car passenger train or a 40 car freight. That is a fair load on the knuckle couplers and can cause coupler failure. The Unimates need to be filed down in order to fit into the MT and Kato knuckle couplers. I use my dremel tool to file off the face of the Unimate coupler, trimming the coupler. On the newer Kato I also file off or trim the nubbin you can find on the left side of the coupler. This allows the MT and Unimate knucklers to interact with each other. I have on occasion used CA glue to keep the Kato knucklers closed. It has been recommended to use a type of goo to accomplish the same purpose...less evasive then CA. Thanks for the come back. Perhaps I need to downsize my trains...grin! .
