COVERTING OLDER LIFLIKE LOCOS TO DCC

KWE Jun 28, 2023

  1. KWE

    KWE TrainBoard Member

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    I have not tried converting any of my older Lilike engines to DCC. Has anyone done this, and if so which decoders were used? I would appreciate any linked information to successful conversions of Lilke engines.

    Thanks in advance,
    Kevin
     
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  2. wvgca

    wvgca TrainBoard Member

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    in all likely hood they would be hard wire installations, so the decoder wouldn't matter much
     
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  3. MRLdave

    MRLdave TrainBoard Member

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    Define "older".......all LifeLike engines are older, since after LL they were Walthers and then Atlas. Some are easy to convert, others require frame milling and other modifications. There's also a big difference in terms of which models you are converting........hard to recommend decoders based on "LifeLike" since different models would require different decoders. More info please.
     
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  4. KWE

    KWE TrainBoard Member

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    This is the only info I have. I also have a SD7 #2209, both purchased early 2000's.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  5. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

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    Brad has some really nice installs ....

    http://n-scale-dcc.blogspot.com/search/label/Loco: Life Like SW9/1200

    There are newer smaller decoders since some of those that he has done.

    [​IMG]

    I'd recommend using the ESU or Zimo above for sure on the SW9/1200 where space is limited. In fact I basically use it on about anything I'm doing since it is only a few dollars more than the Digitrax decoders I was using (still have a lot of them that I'd sell for what I paid....less than what they are going for now). The ESU is smaller, has more functions and better motor control. Same with the Zimo but it is a fair bit more.

    I have info on the decoders and installs I've done (none on your two locos) here..

    https://1fatgmc.com/RailRoad/Decoder-1/Decoders-Index.html

    Most installs are basically the same if you only are controlling the motor and lights. You could put sound decoders in those but will have to spend quite a bit more and the installs will be a lot harder but it has been done.

    Sumner
     
  6. MRLdave

    MRLdave TrainBoard Member

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    The SW is a nice loco, but not an easy conversion........because of it's size, there isn't really a spot for a decoder........you have to make a spot. even for the small decoders Sumner is mentioning. I personally also hate working on those SWs because the bars that transfer power from the trucks to the chassis are attached (very poorly) to the shell using a "melted plastic" method. Usually at least one will break getting the shell off, and you can glue them back, but after that they are even MORE fragile. Also, you can't test the loco with the shell off. The last one I did was a newer model that was DCC ready, and I ended up having to remove the shell 3 times before it worked right. Broke one contact of on attempts 1 and 3 and a second contact on attempt 2. Got everything glued back on, and it works great now, but I don't plan to do another. The SD is much easier, although it's a very dated design. Mine all have plastic frames with romovable lead (or whatever it is) weights on each end over the trucks. That makes it easy to make space for the decoder by simply removing a weight.......of course that decreases the pulling power a bit. The SDs don't have the greatest power pickup, which can be an issue with DCC. Spookshow gives a fix on his website Life-Like (China) EMD SD7/9 (spookshow.net)

    At some point, you reach the point of no return on cost...........your call on that, but there are better options on the market with DCC and sound already on board. I still have both the locos you show ( actually 4 SDs and 3 SWs in Milw and C&NW) that I run at club events, but for the home layout I have Kato NWs with DCC and a BLI NW2 with sound, And Atlas SDs with DCC.
     
  7. GGNInNScale

    GGNInNScale TrainBoard Member

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    Hi I converted a LifeLike GP38 to DCC. Used a small TCS decoder- CN-GP. Had to rewire a bit to get everything in place. I modified the frame weights, used a bit of door sealant goo to hold the weights in place. The frame is plastic, so it needed some reinforcement. A bit of Kapton tape where needed. The interior height clearance is limited, so it required some cutting and pasting and grinding. Changed the couplers to MT. Took more work that I expected, but it runs really well now.
     
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